[OP]
Contributor
Just bought a nice new bandsaw and want to make sure the shop is ready for it. What electrical work needs to be done?
1) what size circuit -- i know its a 5HP motor but i cannot find current draw on the web site
2) does it come with a cord/plug or do i need to wire it from the switch to the receptacle?
Bob C
Contributor
Congratulations Bob! Nice new toy!
I have connected mine on a 30 amp circuit and bought 10 gauge flexible cable. One end hard wired into the junction box; the other end a twist lock at the machine end. This allows me to easily disconnect the saw when I change blades.
Happy sawing!
J.
Member
I have a MM20 and it is a fantastic saw. Given the deal they are running right now you got a fantastic deal on a great saw. When it arrives you will need a cord and plug. You will want some 10 gauge power cord. You will need two wires and a ground. In addition to that you will want a 30 amp twist lock plug and a 30 amp circuit. If you go to a big box store you should be able to have them cut power cord to length. It is much more flexible. You will also need someone on hand to help you stand the machine up. Mine came laying on its spine. As I said my saw is a fantastic saw. I only have two complaints about mine. The first is the Carter guides. They require two hex wrenches and a screw driver to adjust. If you are switching from a 1/4” blade to a 1” blade it is a royal PITA. I fixed this problem by having another saw that I keep a 1/4” blade on. I may eventually get a set of the Laguna guides but since I keep a 1” blade on my saw it isn’t a high priority. The other is the dust collection. It only has one dust port and you need a lot of CFM at the saw to pull the dust away. If you don’t have enough vacuum the saw will literally rain sawdust down on you and the lower cabinet will fill up. If you haven’t already picked up a resaw blade check out Spectrum Supply for a Lenox Woodmaster CT carbide blade. You should be able to get one for your saw for about $125. I have one and I can’t tell you how many thousands of feet of material I have resaw with one blade.
Diamanwoodcrafters
Contributor
I’ll second that, I ran mine without a DC for about an hour when I first got it, I think the entire shop was coated in western Red Cedar. Safe to say a good DC is required, I have a V3000 and it works well.
I have euro guides on my machine, they came with it and the machine (MM20) is from 2016, so I assume yours will also have euro guides. They're Easy to use.
Sam Blasco sent me a sheet on the basics and his recommendations and I went by that info. Sam’s info is right on, you can tell he has a great deal of experience with his machinery.
Sam’s a great resource, answers all of my many stupid questions and always gives spot on reliable advice. He’s answered questions about my saw I had maybe 3 weeks ago, that is almost a year after the sale. Sam’s a great salesman in that he doesn’t give any kind of hard sale, he gives the info straightforward and recommends.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Member
Brian, now that you mention it I seem to remember they went back to the Euro guides on the MM16 and MM20 shortly after I bought mine. A friend of mine put Laguna guides on his saw and gave me his Euro guides. I took my Carter guides off and put the Euro guides on my saw for a short time. You are right, they adjust much easier than the Carter guides. The problem I ran into with the Euro guides is the thrust bearings locked up on the ones I had. I ended up pulling them off and putting the Carter guides back on. When I started having problems with the thrust bearing the guides were throwing sparks like crazy. With all the fine resaw dust I was creating and the potential of a spark ending up in my dust collector I switched them out pretty quick. I’m guessing the problem I had was just a fluke.
Diamanwoodcrafters
Member
If you’ve never bought 30 amp plugs and receptacles be prepared for sticker shock. It’s about $50 for both plus the SJOO cable.
before you find a home for the saw, note how far you need to swing the doors open to put on a wide blade. You’ll see the doors need to be about 180 degrees open, which means you can’t have the saw right against a wall (unless you want to move it every time you change a blade)
Mine also came with the Carter guides and yes they need lots of tools to adjust them. I switched to Laguna guides and am much happier (though they are expensive and required some reengineering)
due to the door issue I ended up moving my saw to a part of the shop somewhat underneath a can light. With all the mass of the saw/blade guard up top my table is fairly dark and covered in shadows. I bought a magnetic flexible light to shine right on the cutting area. But ideally you’ll have an overhead light a few feet away in a position where light can get down to the actual cutting zone.
Contributor
... Chris's note made me remember one thing: if you use the mobility kit (not sure you will since you may wish to have it stationary) you will quickly realize that opening the bottom door is somewhat frustrating because of the lack of clearance for the wheel.
You have two choices: pull the cotter pin and remove the wheel (and reinstall as need be), or, put a spacer (strip of plywood 3/4 inch or thicker) between the frame and the bracket (the mobility kit itself) which "pushes the wheel further back".
As for the guides, my saw came with the Carter guides; I eventually got used to them!
Member
When I saw the title of this thread my first reaction was,EXTENDED HAPPY DANCE!!!!
Member
I have an Agazzani saw with euro guides and have the same issue with sparks. I've had to clean the thrust bearings more than I'd like. One day I may upgrade to ceramic guides but I've read they throw sparks too.
Hard to get comfortable throwing sparks into a dust collection system!!
Member
And I forgot to say, enjoy your new saw Bob!
Contributor
Congratulations!
My bandsaw shipped on its back in the crate.
Very helpful to have a buddy to help you get this upright, and then you can walk the bandsaw off the bottom part of the crate
Advice above is good for electrical power.
My saw order came with some blades. I wasn't terribly thrilled with those, and soon replaced with some other blades. These will usually need to be ordered to your specified length from a blade supplier.
The table ships with goop on it, underneath a sheet of plastic. Follow normal advice for removing the goop (can scrape with a plastic scraper; remove residue with paper towels and mineral spirits, etc.). And then whatever you use for your cast iron surfaces (boeshield/wax/etc.)
Took a long time to wipe the smile off my face after my initial cuts through thick material.
*do* pay attention to good practice -- the saw has a lot of power, and you don't want it rolling a log on you at the start of the cut!
Are you going to keep the saw mobile? will you be using zambus-style casters, or the minimax mobility kit? If using Zambus, the thread pitch for these is M12x1.75.
My saw came with a miter gauge and push stick. You'll need to provide your own feather boards.
Matt
Moderator
Congratulations! Great machine. You need a 30 amp circuit and you'll also need to supply the cord and termination hardware. I use rubber cord from the 'borg and in my case, spent a little more to do a pigtail on the saw and a mating cord to the wall. I use SnapLocks in my shop for my 240v tools. The pigtail gives a disconnect "at the saw" with easier access than to the wall recepticle and also means no cord to drag if the machine needs to be moved. But that's me...others just do a cord and are done with it.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Guest
I would buy enough SO cord that you can replace the cord that comes on the machine. I don't care for the small gauge or the quality of the insulation in the white Italian cords.
I prefer twist lock ends too.
Enjoy the saw, I just picked up a used one a free weeks ago. It's a nice unit, especially if you're like me and just had a poorly made 14" saw before.
Moderator
No cord comes with the machine, Martin...it be naked!Originally Posted by Martin Wasner
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Guest
I bought mine used and it had the cheap Italian cord on it. You're better off not getting a cord.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote