Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 23

Thread: Staining/Dying QSWO

  1. #1

    Staining/Dying QSWO

    I am building a trestle dining table. The top will be QSWO & the base will be walnut.

    I plan to experiment but I'm looking for suggestions on dye or stain the oak in a darker color to go with the walnut.

    I'm thinking about using a water based red dye then follow with a oil based mahogany.

    I plan to grain fill. Where does the grain filling fall in this process? If I use a clear grain filler do I dye/stain first?

    What has worked for you?

    Thx.

  2. #2
    Aesthetics are personal, but I think white oak and walnut go wonderfully together without color altering either.
    I also would not bother with grain filling.

    Try some test scraps with the QSWO and Walnut finished with the same topcoat and see how you like it. I would not try to make them darker to 'match'.

    If you want to get a little fancy, you could use a dark brown glaze on the top. This means applying one or two base coats of your topcoat, and then applying the glaze. You let it partially dry, then buff off the excess. This will lodge color into the oak pores and will partially darken the top. It will decrease the contrast. Then you continue with the topcoats until satisfied.

    Using a darker varnish on the top such as Waterlox will also make the top darker.

    If you are going to dye and stain, beware of red dye and mahogany stain on QSWO. It will make the top red - not brown like the base.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    N.E, Ohio
    Posts
    3,026
    I made a display cabinet out or rift sawn white oak and it was challenging to get all the fine grain stained.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
    Posts
    2,923
    White oak takes dye well without blotching, EXCEPT that frequently dye will not "take" in the pores. That's not really a problem if you follow the dye with a pigmented stain or pore filler. Clear pore filler won't contribute to solving that problem. I like oil based pore filler tinted with artists oil paint or with powdered pigment. The pore filler will do the same job as stain. Y

    Trying to make oak match walnut is a fraught process since you will not be able to make them look the same, and getting the colors close will just give the impression that you tried to match but didn't succeed. Sure you can darken the oak, but I strongly recommend you don't aim to get particularly close to walnut color.

    Whether to fill pores or not is an aesthetic choice depending on the formality of the style. In my mind trestle tables are more toward the casual end of the scale of formality but it is your choice

  5. #5
    Robert,

    I agree with previous posts that it may be difficult and frustrating to match white oak to walnut. If you want the base and top to match, I recommend that you reconsider the idea of using two species with markedly different colors, e.g., use oak or ash for the base and save the walnut for another project.

    I am one who prefers to fill oak. I have had good results with CrystalLac. Grain filler will greatly reduce penetration of dye and stain. If you do decide to darken the oak, get the color you want and then use grain filler. (You can color grain filler with Transtint or UTC) Some people like to use a contrasting color in the grain filler but I have never cared for that look.

    Doug

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    I agree with Prashun...the work well together "natively"...

    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,647
    I wouldn't try to match WO to walnut either, but that's just me - and many others it seems. But to address your question about dyeing and staining WO, look at Jeff Jewitt's website under the Stickley Finish Guide. There are lots of variations on Jeff's approach and materials, but he outlines the basic process very well.

    http://homesteadfinishingproducts.co...rces/articles/

    John

  8. #8
    For clarification, the oak I have is very light and I'm just looking to tint it more to a browner tone, not actually match the darkness of walnut.

    I used Danish oil medium walnut on this tool chest. Took a look at it the other day it might be what I'm looking for. What do you all think?

    Tool Chest Fin1.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lawrence, KS
    Posts
    594
    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    I wouldn't try to match WO to walnut either, but that's just me - and many others it seems. But to address your question about dyeing and staining WO, look at Jeff Jewitt's website under the Stickley Finish Guide. There are lots of variations on Jeff's approach and materials, but he outlines the basic process very well.

    http://homesteadfinishingproducts.co...rces/articles/

    John
    System works very well.

    Two small modifications I've made:

    1) Add just a scant drop of liquid dish soap to the dye. Breaks surface tension and gets it into the pores more easily. Flooding the surface helps.
    2) I use shellac instead of Seal-a-Cel, etc. Quicker and I can monkey with the color by changing shellacs or adding dyes. Generally I've used either garnett (might be too dark for most tastes) or orange (warms things up nicely) and then switch to blonde. All dewaxed, from flakes. Spray if possible.

    I've done a little experimenting with pore filling using plaster of paris. It can be dyed using water based dyes. Works pretty well but don't plan on filling deep pores in one go as it will settle. Likewise, water based wood putties can be made to work. But test them to see that they will take a color. I found the cheap, house brand at Ace Hardware and the Elmer's brand worked just fine.

    What I did was to first dye with my base color. Seal with blonde shellac. Mix up plaster of paris sort of runny (heavy cream) and dye to color I want in the pores (bit darker than base color). Work in the usual ways. Sand back lightly when dry. Re-shellac if necessary (sand through can allow dye to polka-dot your work if you do a second "lift" of filler). Second lift of filler if needed. Shellac to seal down. Additional top coats including using a glaze if needed.

    My test pieces are about two years old now and live in the house near a register for the HVAC. So they experience the maximum variation in my house. No problems with things popping out of the grain no red oak or ash (my two test woods).
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2,652
    I like the color I get with just a coat of BLO (this one finished with clear poly)IMG_1467.jpg

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lawrence, KS
    Posts
    594
    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    I like the color I get with just a coat of BLO (this one finished with clear poly)IMG_1467.jpg
    Nice color. Having the ability to do a little bit of color manipulation (dyes, stains, glazes) is sometimes helpful when the various parts came from different boards and possibly different trees. Getting things to match up is helpful.

    But getting done simply is satisfying!
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  12. #12
    Well the time has arrived. After a lot of playing around with dyes, I came up with a mixture of amber and medium brown. (Sorry I can't get the orientation changed on pic)

    IMG_0928.jpg

    Next up seal coat with shellac, glaze with gel stain, sand and top coat EM8000.

    I want to thank everyone for all their advice I was quite nervous about getting it right. So far, I'm happy.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    That is stunning!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,647
    Stunning grain. Is it solid wood or veneer. If that is a frame of walnut around the WO, I sure hope it's the latter.

    John

  15. #15
    Solid. Yes, its walnut.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •