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Thread: zero clearance insert

  1. #1

    zero clearance insert

    Hi there ! Is there any way to make a zero clearance insert for my table saw without using a dado blade ? My 10" blade will not move far enough below the table to start the cut in the insert. I don't have a dado blade so I'm looking another easy way. Any tips ? Circular saw blade etc..

    Thanks !

  2. #2
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    Use a router to remove some of the material where the blade touches. Outside blade to a 6" or 8" dado stack.
    Last edited by Cary Falk; 10-22-2017 at 1:31 PM.

  3. #3
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    If you have a router, you can route a dado on the underneath side of the insert, most table saws will retract enough that you can then get clearance. You can also (please be careful) start with the insert installed on the end nearest you and the "far" end lifted up in the air. Clamp something to the table surface on the end nearest you to act as a stop, bring the fence over to rub the right-hand side, and retract the blade as far as it will go. Start the saw, and carefully lower the insert down onto the blade.

  4. #4
    If your talking about making the cut after you fitted your new insert, you could use a 7 1/4 blade and then use your 10" blade.

  5. #5
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    I had the same problem, ended up buying an eight inch Freud glue line rip blade. That not only gave me a a rip blade that I din't have, but because the teeth are flat on top, it can be also used for finger joints and clean bottoms on grooves and notches. If you ever make a ZC insert for a bevel cut, you will still need to use a router to eat away some of the bottom surface of the insert for clearance.

    In cutting the slot, once the 8" blade breaks through the insert, I stop the saw and swap the 10" back on, and finish the cut with it. You will want to cut a notch in the back for your splitter too. Make a mark on the insert where the splitter will come through, and don't cut any further than that. Raise your blade to it's highest point so it will cut as close to vertical as possible, that will leave the maximum amount of material between the two cuts.

    You can park your fence over the right side of the insert to hold it in place so that it doesn't lift when you are bringing the blade up, I use a couple of thin wedges between the fence and the insert to prevent it from lifting.

    Dan
    Last edited by Dan Forman; 10-22-2017 at 11:52 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Setting the front edge of the insert down against the front edge of the opening, can you lower the insert down onto the blade ? Be sure to keep the insert perpendicular to the blade the whole way.

  7. #7
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    7 1/4 circular saw blades are a good idea. For full kerf 10” blades you’d have to stack 2 or 3 together.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonak Hawkins View Post
    Setting the front edge of the insert down against the front edge of the opening, can you lower the insert down onto the blade ? Be sure to keep the insert perpendicular to the blade the whole way.
    Sounds dangerous to me.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonak Hawkins View Post
    Setting the front edge of the insert down against the front edge of the opening, can you lower the insert down onto the blade ? Be sure to keep the insert perpendicular to the blade the whole way.
    Whoa, this is really dangerous and I would not recommend it. IMO It is never safe to lower a piece of work onto a moving blade by hand. With a throat insert your fingers are going to be far too close to a moving blade. Save the deductible on your health insurance and go buy an 8" blade with the same width teeth.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  10. #10
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    I had to do this for my Sawstop,. I just used my rotary tool or a grinder to make a rounded slot for blade clearance. Or I have clamped down the insert over my old insert and brought the blade up. Dan

  11. #11
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    Like Cary, I just use the router table and a quarter inch bit to make a partial groove for clearance.

    ZCI-underside.jpg
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 10-23-2017 at 10:01 AM.
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  12. #12
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    the inserts that infinity sells already have the clearance slot in the bottom. more than scrap ply, but also good quality.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Whoa, this is really dangerous and I would not recommend it.
    That's why I asked if he could to do it. Everyone has their own confidence threshold. I really don't know charles's level of competency.

    I have done this maneuver many times and am comfortable doing it. The hands are nowhere near the blade if you know what you're doing. The biggest concern is keeping the plate perpendicular (a jig can help if you don't trust your eyeball) so the blade doesn't bind.

    Let me ask you this, Lee : How do you hold the insert when you are raising the blade up through it ?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonak Hawkins View Post
    Let me ask you this, Lee : How do you hold the insert when you are raising the blade up through it ?
    Don't know how he does it but I clamp a piece of scrap to the table over the insert to the side of where the blade will penetrate.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bokros View Post
    Don't know how he does it but I clamp a piece of scrap to the table over the insert to the side of where the blade will penetrate.
    Yup, I've done it that way or just clamping a piece of plywood over the whole thing.

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