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Thread: 40 AMP Range breaker for DC?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    Greensboro, NC
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    40 AMP Range breaker for DC?

    Hi all,

    I'm trying to figure out how to get a 3 HP DC in my 2 car garage shop. I have 2 110V20amp circuits and one 220V20amp circuits dedicated to the shop, but the DC requires a 40 amp circuit. I have no room in my box for any more breakers and a sub panel is too expensive (if I got it I wouldn't be able to afford the DC, Catch-22). So, I was looking at my breaker box today and noticed that there is a 40amp breaker named 'RANGE'. This is the stove, I'm assuming. Could I run and outlet for the DC from this? My stove is nearly never used and I would make sue that if it is being used, not to turn on the DC.

    I sounds so simple to me that there is probably something wrong with his plan.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
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    840
    Are you trying to run it on 120? That's the only way I could see it needing 40A. The 40A range breaker should be a double pole at 240.

    I have a 3HP Oneida running on 240, off a 20A (I believe) breaker.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
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    127
    It's a Grizzly G0441, it's 240V 22 AMP draw and the specs say 30 AMP breaker minimum. There are a few 30AMP breakers, but they are for things that are used frequently in the house. I just figured a stove is used so little, why not use it for the DC unless there is some reason not to.

  4. #4
    I rented a farm house and had a shop in the basement. We cut the line to the stove and put a electrical box and stove receptacle so we could unplug the stove to run the table saw and then would plug the stove back in to eat. You could never do both at the same time. It would probably be better and more legit to put in a proper switch instead. The dryer circuit is another possibility if closer to the garage/shop.

    I'll finish by saying I'm not an electrician so you should check with a real one before playing with your wiring.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,875
    Technically, the range circuit is a dedicated circuit for that appliance. Functionally, you can do what you want to do, but it's not compliant with code, AFAIK. You might want to consider installing a sub-panel for your shop. The advantage is that you'll get more space for circuits you need and you'll also be able to completely cut off the shop if you wish to for safety reasons when you're not using it.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, VA
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    1,006
    I've used tandem breakers to make room in the box. If you've never seen those they're basically two 120 breakers that take up the space of one.

    Just don't overload the panel!

  7. #7
    Time for either a larger panel or a sub panel. Tandem breakers are OK, but I've seen far too many amateurs unbalance their circuits with them.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    1,938
    A new sub-panel costs about $100, plus breakers. A used one costs a fraction of that. This is what your shop needs.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    10,001
    Look on craigs list for two used sub panels. You need two because you need one next to the existing panel and one in the shop. Should not cost more then $100 each, loaded. Best is to get two of same brand so you can move things around. also good if the existing panel is same make and breaker type. Use a good brand.
    As long as you do not use Zinsco or federal pacific.
    Also check Craigslist for some big wire to supply your sub panels. If you run conduit underground use bigger then needed and put in a few 3/4" empty runs as well.
    Bill D

  10. More panels are always better for added capacity. And, IMO, you just can't go wrong with Square D QO panels and breakers. Been making them since the early 50s and the design has not changed.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    127
    Yes, I know that I can get sub panels and breakers very cheap. It's the electrician that cost the $$$$. I don't feel at all comfortable doing the work myself, It would be a really stupid way to die, I think. I had 2 quotes and both were in the $700 range. If I do that, there will be no money for the DC, so what's the point?

    I do need the house to be up to code, so I guess I will save my pennies and keep using my 2 HF specials for now.

    Thanks for all of the advice.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
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    I personally would have no qualms about using the stove circuit to power a dust collector. I might install a 40+ amp double pole double throw switch something like what's used with standby generators so there's no way to power both the dust collector and stove. Or use one suitable outlet for the 40 amp circuit and a plug on the stove cord and a plug on the dust collector cord. I'm not sure if that would meet code - possibly not but it seems safe.
    Last edited by Curt Harms; 09-04-2017 at 8:01 AM.

  13. Definitely pull a permit and hire an Electrician. Splitting the circuit isn't to code. Why should you care? Insurance. If someone is injured or you have a fire the insurance company won't pay. You can also be liable for negligence.

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