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Thread: Fritz and Franz jig

  1. #31
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    It depends upon what you are cutting...I did note that it could be farther forward, but it can never be in front of the spot where the off-cut is fully, um...cut. IE, you need to move the thing to suit the cut. I'm sorry if I made it seem that it should be at the riving knife; my wording was poor. The ideal spot is where it insures that the spinning blade doesn't pull it back toward the front of the blade and then potentially get caught and thrown across the room...miring the shop cat's day as I playfully mentioned.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 09-08-2017 at 6:24 PM.
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    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #32
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    Thanks for the help Jim.
    Dan

  3. #33
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    I, too, gave up my PM66 after many years and now have a new 48x48 HK3W. Just finished assembly this week. I am almost overwhelmed by the learning curve ahead of me but I'm up to it. I plan on making a F&F jig right away but have a question. Most of the ones I see described have a cross-cut fence on the outfeed portion of the slider and the "upper" half of the F&F jig rests against that; the "lower" half of the jig is moveable and traps the workpiece between the two. My saw doesn't have an outrigger cross-cut fence, only the smaller cross-cut fence that is attached to the infeed end of the slider. Would this fence be moved to the outfeed end to accomplish the same purpose, or is there something I'm missing?

  4. #34
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    Gene, can you most the miter fence down the slider wagon? I can position mine anywhere along the slider. While I typically use it in the "push" position at the left end, for a F&F, I could just slide it to the right.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #35
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    Yes, I can reposition my cross-cut fence at the infeed end or at the outfeed end of the slider. Is using the "push" configuration where the workpiece is pushed against the fence the more typical way cross-cutting is done?

    After further investigation it seems apparent that for a Hammer K3 Winner without an outrigger table, the cross-cut operation is intended to be performed with the cross-cut fence mounted at the infeed end of the slider and pushing against the workpiece, ala a standard cabinet saw. This leaves me with my original question of how the Fritz and Franz jig would be mounted.
    Last edited by Gene Reynolds; 09-15-2017 at 7:11 PM.

  6. #36
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    Oct 2005
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    Helensburgh, Australia
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    My K3 was as Gene describes, no outrigger and CC fence at the infeed end. To use the F&F jig I bought the fixings (cam adjuster & zero stop pin etc) and put them on the table at the outfeed end because I did not want to disturb the zero/square setting in the original position. As it turns out I bought the out rigger later on and before that I used the CC fence in the new position and some years later have never returned the CC fence to the original factory position. If I were going to do it today I would fashion a simple stop at the outfeed end that could be used to butt the stationery part of the F&F jig against and it would be quickly removeable for ripping longer pieces on the sliding table. The only thing essential to the stop is that it is square to the table so some sort method of setting the it to zero quickly against a stop would be essential.
    Last edited by Chris Parks; 09-15-2017 at 7:59 PM.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene Reynolds View Post
    Yes, I can reposition my cross-cut fence at the infeed end or at the outfeed end of the slider. Is using the "push" configuration where the workpiece is pushed against the fence the more typical way cross-cutting is done?
    I use "push" for larger pieces of sheet goods, but for typical crosscutting of solid stock and smaller panels, I prefer to use the miter setup attached to my wagon in a "pull" fashion as the workpiece is fully supported through the cut by the machine, rather than my hands. It's nice to have options!!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #38
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    Ok, I am going to Necro this thread (thanks Jim Becker!)... He PM'd me that his F&F was shop made.. So I did a search and came to this thread!

    Would someone please be so kind to show me a video of how a deflector is used?
    I've used holz-her panels saws (vertical) before, but i needed and wanted cleaner cuts and more versatility so i went with the slider (k 940 s)

    First time using a sliding saw here and I'd rather not have wood bullets flying across shop.

    thanks everyone. y'all are inspiring.

    -mike

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike waters View Post
    Ok, I am going to Necro this thread (thanks Jim Becker!)... He PM'd me that his F&F was shop made.. So I did a search and came to this thread!

    Would someone please be so kind to show me a video of how a deflector is used?
    I've used holz-her panels saws (vertical) before, but i needed and wanted cleaner cuts and more versatility so i went with the slider (k 940 s)

    First time using a sliding saw here and I'd rather not have wood bullets flying across shop.

    thanks everyone. y'all are inspiring.

    -mike
    I don't have a video however when I run format saw courses I demonstrate a deflector wedge.

    Here's a photo and a drawing...........Rod.

    Deflector Installed on the saw.jpgDeflector in use.jpgVisio-Tablesaw deflector wedge drawing.pdf

  10. #40
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    Yea, I built one of those, too, Rod. Great thing to have.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    I don't have a video however when I run format saw courses I demonstrate a deflector wedge.

    Here's a photo and a drawing...........Rod.

    Deflector Installed on the saw.jpgDeflector in use.jpgVisio-Tablesaw deflector wedge drawing.pdf
    PERFECT!

    thanks guys!

  12. #42
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    Yes they are Jim.

    A couple of days ago I had a small offcut on the saw, it drifted back into the scoring saw which lobbed it at the main blade, then repeated for enough cycles that I had time to hit the stop button.

    Looked like a pinball game for a couple of seconds...........Rod.

  13. #43
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    May 2016
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    Salt Lake City, Utah
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    Escape from insanity...

    IMG_0396.jpgIMG_0395.jpgIMG_0394.jpgThere's Derek from Perth (among many) whose Fritz and Franz creations and revisions have inspired, so when looking for a handle, I uncovered this original knob from our 1930's farmhouse and with a forstner bit and some hardware, this knob rotates. I've spaced it to allow for an Incra track and stop, but Incra is still 3-4 weeks out on tracks that will accommodate either a regular or flip stop. Meanwhile, a coat of urethane and a little sanding have kept me away from the TV for a bit. Today is looney tunes and I need to tune out and find something a little more meditative to distract. Mmmm... urethane! I have been sitting on this piece of wood for several years. Carl, my Felder rep, suggested finding a nice piece of wood, rather than spending exorbitant amounts for the Felder/Ruwi kit, which apparently does not fit the slot on the K3's slider. I'll share more pics as this evolves. Peace. Gary

  14. #44
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    Apr 2017
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    Looks nice! Will you add some adhesive backed sand paper on the faces of your jig to help grip the work piece? And perhaps some scales with adjustable stops?
    David

  15. #45
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    May 2016
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    Salt Lake City, Utah
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    Yes, David! Looking at options.

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