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Thread: New Shop Construction

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    How do you intend to keep the shop pooch in that particular position all the time?
    I thought maybe it was a pooch rug, woven from alpaca and bighorn sheep fibers, intended to put in front of woodburning stoves for the benefit of cats. My cats would sleep on it all day.

    JKJ

  2. #32
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    Well Jim we actually have two dogs so it may be a challenge. They are both old however and sleep a lot so we could dial it in fairly well...
    Regards,

    Kris

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I thought maybe it was a pooch rug, woven from alpaca and bighorn sheep fibers, intended to put in front of woodburning stoves for the benefit of cats.

    JKJ
    John - is this something you have experience with? Seems like a fairly descriptive construct for a rug...
    Regards,

    Kris

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kris Cook View Post
    John - is this something you have experience with? Seems like a fairly descriptive construct for a rug...
    It's been forever since I've made a rug. I do have years of llama and alpaca fleeces, but just one sheep.

    My son did laugh out loud at the idea of a rug for cats shaped like a dog. We have two inside/outside cats and three barn cats.

  5. #35
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    Oct 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Lent View Post
    I know someone who has his entire shop above his garage. He has a motorized lift that slides/folds out of an end door to lift his machinery and supplies, etc.
    It works for him, but I wouldn't want it. My shop was in the basement of my previous house and the only access was the inside stairway that went up to a 3 X 4' area with two doors, one left into the kitchen, and one straight ahead, which then dropped two steps into the back corner of the garage. Everything had to go in and out through that up and down maze. Before I moved, I was considering finding a sidewalk elevator and building an outside entrance with the elevator in it for access in and out of the basement, maybe with a removable stairway so the elevator didn't always have to be used. You can make do with these inconveniences, but it sure doesn't promote good shop time.

    Charley
    Charles, your situation sounds like my last house.
    -- Up the stairs to a landing.
    -- Make a left into the kitchen.
    -- Snake between the fridge and an island
    -- hang a right through the laundry
    -- down the stairs into the garage

    Additionally, the stair stringers just didn't look right to me. There was a piece of 3/4" plywood nailed to a joist extending down and the stringers were nailed to that.
    So I beefed up them up with sistered 2x4s when it was time to move the heavy stuff up and down. Moving out, I paid riggers to move stuff from the basement to the garage.

    When we built our, ahem, downsized house, I insisted on two stairways to the basement. The inside one is a spiral staircase for people. The outside one is 4' wide with a 42" door for stuff. Interestingly, the basement at 1300 sq ft is larger than the house at 976. I had them make a floating slab over a porch. I don't want to know what that cost but it's great. It's also a really awesome storm shelter being surrounded by concrete on 5 sides.

  6. #36
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    Jan 2017
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    MT
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    Electrical Planning

    As I am nearing "drying in" my building I am thinking about electrical.

    The attached drawing is my attempt at a diagram. I realize the icons are incorrect but it is what I could do easily in Photoshop Elements. The shaded thick lines are the DC piping runs. The florescents are a bit hard to see.

    I forgot to show the panel on the drawing. It is on the wall at the top of the drawing between the two benches adjacent to the table saw. I am feeding from a 200 amp dedicated service on the other side of the wall.

    I am going to run the garage wiring in the wall, so that is pretty straight-forward.

    The shop wiring will likely be a mix of in the wall and surface mount. I am probably going to run vertically out of the box and stay high on the wall with my main horizontal runs (as has been suggested in other threads).

    Any suggestions to keep the congestion down would be appreciated.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Regards,

    Kris

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Trenton SC, in the CSRA
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    Not my shop, not my money. I would consider putting the lights in the car space, not on the centerline of the vehicle. I would put lights down each side and add one at the front of the car and one at the rear, even with the garage door open. The latter on a separate switch maybe. But then, I tinker with the car/truck on occasion.

  8. #38
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    That is good input. Thank you. I will re-evaluate the light placement. I too have been known to tinker - although less and less with these newer vehicles.
    Regards,

    Kris

  9. #39
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    You're gonna want more light in the shop. It looks like you've got 7 4' fluorescent strips in there. For comparison, my shop is about the same size as yours & I've got a total or 32 4' tubes, plus additional task lighting at the workbench, drill press & sharpening station. The lighting levels are very good, but by no means excessive.

  10. #40
    Something to consider with the 220V circuits are the different amperages. Which ones will be 20 amp, which will be 30 amp and anything bigger planned? Same applies to the 110V, 15 or 20 amp?

    Pete

  11. #41
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    MT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    You're gonna want more light in the shop. It looks like you've got 7 4' fluorescent strips in there. For comparison, my shop is about the same size as yours & I've got a total or 32 4' tubes, plus additional task lighting at the workbench, drill press & sharpening station. The lighting levels are very good, but by no means excessive.
    Thanks Frank. I will take a harder look at the lighting.
    Regards,

    Kris

  12. #42
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    Jan 2017
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    MT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Christensen View Post
    Something to consider with the 220V circuits are the different amperages. Which ones will be 20 amp, which will be 30 amp and anything bigger planned? Same applies to the 110V, 15 or 20 amp?

    Pete
    Thanks Peter, for the reminder. I had that figured out at one time but need to re-visit.

    Trying to get trusses on tomorrow. We have weather coming so it will get interesting...
    Regards,

    Kris

  13. #43
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    Jan 2017
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    MT
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    Electrical Planning

    I put together this spreadsheet to evaluate my electrical.

    Does this seem extreme?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Regards,

    Kris

  14. #44
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Lancaster, Ohio
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    1,346
    Couple thoughts based on my basement shop
    1- Glad to see a seperate shop panel. I didn't do that since the main panel is so close. Now 18 yrs later want a sub panel and will change all wiring to get it next year. Garage and outside have sub panels.
    2-Conduit to all major equipment. Dust Collector, Table Saw, Jointer, Planer, Shaper, ?? Had 220 ONLY to Planer and dust collector. running ext cords now for table saw, shaper and wide belt sander, all changed/added and were upgraded to 220. Will rewire with conduit after new subpanel is installed.
    3- Switching over to led lighting and adding more light for older eyes to see better
    4-Dust Collector switched on automatically when any tool piped to it is turned on along with a low voltage switch to turn it on manually. (very easy to do with CT's, relay and contactor in main electric panel)
    5-Switch for air compressor on/off tied to lights if air compressor is remotely located.
    good luck
    Ron

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I really can't read you chart, but I'll mention that you "can" consolidate your machine circuits to reduce complexity and cost if you want to do that. Some things, such as your dust collection system, compressor, etc., should be on dedicated circuits, but if you are a "one person" shop and anticipate staying that way, you can feed multiple stationary tools from the same circuit by branching at a large j-box. Just pick tools that you know you will never be running at the same time. I like machine circuit j-boxes to be accessible inside the shop, too, so that changes in the future are easier. Many folks choose to run heavier wire for all machine circuits so there is also future flexibility. While many of the "typical" tools used in personal woodworking shops are fine with 20 amp 240v circuits, there are some that need 30 amp, such as the larger, heavy bandsaws that many folks gravitate toward by example. While it's not an exact designation, things that get to the "5hp" motor level almost always need a 30 amp circuit which in many cases needs 10 gage wire. Since 20 amp circuits can also use 10 gage wire, it may be cost effective for you to just use 10 gage for all your 240v circuits and terminate appropriate for the need of that circuit today.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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