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Thread: New Shop Construction

  1. #61
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    Jan 2017
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    Second week of November


    TJI's up



    It got really cold right after the rain saturated everything



    Trench backfill was kind of a mess for a while. Either mud or frozen solid


    That windrow of backfill will probably be there until spring - oh well



    Neighbor came over with the tractor to move some of the frozen chunks away from the driveway area. That doorway leads into what used to be a pottery studio built by the previous owners. It is about 12' x 19' and has served as my shop since we bought the place last fall. It isn't much but it works for now, and I would have killed for a space that big for a lot of years when we were younger.



    Frozen chunks moved out of the way.
    Regards,

    Kris

  2. #62
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    Mid-November


    Dusting of snow on the Missions


    Covered my frozen chunks with black plastic hoping to thaw them out a little.


    Framing continues



    View from the back deck


    Second floor sub-flooring going down


    Trying to keep the OSB dry.
    Regards,

    Kris

  3. #63
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    Mid-November continued


    Second floor framing going up




    More second floor framing


    Tarps again



    I guess its kind of cold. That broom stood like that all day. Sure would be nice to have a heated shop to work in...



    My youngest learning how to use a nail gun.


    Framing away


    View from the back deck
    Regards,

    Kris

  4. #64
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    Third week of November


    Truss braces


    Trusses delivered


    Ready for trusses


    Tusses set on walls with telescoping forklift (Thanksgiving morning)


    W10X15 beam set for hoist trolley in garage



    Closeup of beam


    First truss set


    View from back deck
    Regards,

    Kris

  5. #65
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    Last week of November - Early December


    More wet stuff


    Tried to keep the second floor as low-profile as possible. Scissor trusses really make a difference opening things up.


    Sheathing going on


    View from the back deck


    I used upside down joist hangers for my outriggers for the gable ends. Gable end trusses are dropped 5.5" enabling me to use 2x6's on edge. Really solid.


    Gable end overhang
    Regards,

    Kris

  6. #66
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    Today


    View from the back deck



    That gets me caught up. Will post more pics as we progress.
    Regards,

    Kris

  7. #67
    That's one heck of a project Kris! Look forward to more pics as you get them.
    How much longer can you work outside in the winter?
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Thanks for all the progress pictures, Kris!! Looking great! And...what a view you have!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frederick Skelly View Post
    That's one heck of a project Kris! Look forward to more pics as you get them.
    How much longer can you work outside in the winter?
    Fred
    I have been really fortunate as last winter we had about 2 feet of snow by this time. I have worked construction all my life (mostly large earth-moving projects) but it is possible to work all winter. Some days are more miserable than others. The cold isn't the problem for building - it is the ice and snow that will slow me down. Hoping to get the roof decking started this week.
    Regards,

    Kris

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Thanks for all the progress pictures, Kris!! Looking great! And...what a view you have!
    Thanks Jim. The view is awesome. My wife and I went round and round on the size and placement of the building to minimize the impact to the view. I think we settled on a fair compromise.
    Regards,

    Kris

  11. #71
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    Plumbing

    Getting around to doing some plumbing layout for the upstairs bathroom. My sewer line comes up through the slab on the lower floor (shop) into a perimeter 6" wall. I originally thought I would try to keep things tucked into the perimeter wall. At this point, to make things easier, and likely more functional, I am going to drop the vertical pipes from above down below the TJI's and pretty much have the main drain lines exposed. The shop ceiling is 9', and the area where the pipes will be exposed is kind of in a corner where the shop sink will be.

    I can probably live with the exposed plumbing but was wondering if anyone had spent the time and effort to box around this kind of thing...
    Regards,

    Kris

  12. #72
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    The aesthetics are what they are around exposed or boxed...for me it would come down to insuring that the plumbing wasn't subjected to damage. That would be my real concern about being exposed.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #73
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    Thank Jim. I will do some more head scratching. Its not a real priority item, just one more thing to deal with.

    Got the upper floor decked, and covered with ice & water shield/underlayment about a week ago. Weather isn't letting me get shingles on but so far the roof is not leaking through a couple of rain/snow-melt cycles.

    Got the trusses set on the garage portion today so that was a major milestone.

    Starting running some electrical and plumbing upstairs on the days when I don't have any help.

    Will post a few progress pictures in the near future.
    Regards,

    Kris

  14. #74
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    In an open space like that, you just have to consider "what can happen if I do it this way" given the nature of how you will be using it. 'Glad things are moving along and you're able to keep the weather out at this point. That's a big step!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #75
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    Jan 2017
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    Swinging Garage Doors (Carriage Doors) - Question on Materials

    Got the east and north windows installed in the upper story along with soffit and fascia while I have the man-lift. Hard to believe I was painting siding and soffit outside a couple of weeks ago.

    Been laying low for the past week or so as we have had snow and single digits (both sides of zero). working in in my little temporary shop made some brackets for the gable peaks.

    In anticipation of closing in the building, I need to build some doors for the garage. The main garage door will be an insulated steel roll-up door. Adjacent to the main door will be a smaller door with a 6 ft. wide opening. I am planning to build two 3'-0" doors to sort of match the steel door.

    The internals will be Pine frames of 1"x3" laid flat with blue board in between the two frames, and 1/4" ply skin on the inside, and 3/8" grooved siding on the outside to create a torsion box.

    Rails and stiles will be about 1/2" thick and fitted over the siding.

    I am planning to run Pine 1"X3" on edge around the perimeter (doubled on the sides for hinge and latch support). These doors will be painted. These doors also won't be used that often, as there is a man-door right around the corner.

    My question - I am thinking Pine might be two soft for wear and tear on the door edges. Should I be using Doug Fir or something else that would take paint well?
    Regards,

    Kris

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