Ron - good ideas all. 4 and 5 are particularly helpful to me.
Do you have any thoughts or reference material on procuring and using CT's?
Thank you,
Ron - good ideas all. 4 and 5 are particularly helpful to me.
Do you have any thoughts or reference material on procuring and using CT's?
Thank you,
Regards,
Kris
Thank you Jim for the thoughtful reply. I think it is possible to simplify the circuits to some degree. There should be a couple of opportunities to consolidate things a little more. I will also give some thought to the 10 gauge wire.
Regards,
Kris
I used 10 gauge wire and 30amp receptacles for all of my 230v shop tools even if they only called for 12ga, except for the 5hp cyclone and 5hp air compressor. I went with larger wire for the larger motors since they were a long way from the breaker.
There are online calculators based on amperage, distance, and voltage drop that will help with the wire size if needed.
You likely can simplify your install and your material cost by going with 12 gage for all your 120v circuits and 10 gauge for all your 240v circuits, independent of any special needs such as a welder or clothes dryer that may require a heftier setup. The cost per foot can be advantageous when you are buying a larger spool of a given gage of wire. And you don't have to "think" as much when you are pulling...the yellow stuff is all 120v and the orange stuff is all 240v.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Thanks Jim. I think that is a good idea. I am able to purchase wholesale but I am also a big fan of 12 gauge wire in general.
I am still working on trying to get a roof on the building. Hopefully, in the next couple of weeks I will be able to zero in on my electrical install.
I will post some pictures of the shop construction when I have more time.
Regards,
Kris
I am still plugging away on my shop construction. Pretty slow going by myself and my son helping three days a week. I have been pretty fortunate we haven't had much snow - much less than last year at this time (probably shouldn't have said that...).
I have been doing a lot of research and reading in the evenings, and catching up on the SMC posts from over the summer, and fall when I am too busy with work to do much of that.
I am installing a wood stove in the shop which is on the ground floor of the building. My office will be directly overhead on the second floor. I need to construct a chimney chase through the second floor living space. It is planned to be a fairly open space generally, except for a bathroom. I am looking for creative ideas for how to disguise the chase or incorporate it into another element that might have some function. I suppose a closet might be best but was wondering if others had any good ideas.
Regards,
Kris
Will the chase be free-standing in the space above or at a wall? That's going to influence suggestions.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Good question, and one I should have answered with my initial post.
I haven't laid anything out yet but with combustible clearances for the stove downstairs I am guessing the pipe will be about 30" out from each wall in a corner. I hope that makes sense.
The chase will be pipe OD plus at least 2".
Haven't bought the pipe but maybe 10" OD for 6" triple-wall?
So the chase will be less than 2' from each wall in the corner.
Thanks Jim. Just breaking for lunch and now back out to the shop build.
Regards,
Kris
Sounds like a good opportunity for a built-in closet and/or plus book shelves in the space between the chase and the adjacent walls. It will not be usable space, for the most part, otherwise I suspect.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
That will get my wheels turning. I will come up with something.
Thank you,
Regards,
Kris
Mid-September to late September
The first thing I did was dig my driveway down about a foot to alleviate some drainage issues. Stripped off the top layer of gravel with a skidsteer, stockpiled it and removed over a foot of material and piled in the back yard. I was able to "demo" a machine from CAT so it didn't cost me anything. Still working on it here but I guess I was pretty busy because I didn't take any other pictures of this work.
We have clayey soils so the building footprint was over-excavated 2 feet. My neighbor owns the field behind us and has a pond in it. He wanted to fill in one side so he can run his irrigation pipe in a more direct line. He needed fill, and i needed to get rid of excess material. At his suggestion we installed a 12' gate in my back fence so we had a straight shot for dumping the excess material. He is an awesome neighbor.
3" minus pit run was placed and compacted to bring the grade up to bottom of concrete.
Inspection crew
Regards,
Kris
Slab prepped
Two loads of mud. Having the gate in the back saved the cost of a pump truck
The local Amish folks did a great job on the slab
A minor distraction while waiting for concrete. I scored a bunch of cedar earlier in the summer and made raised beds with mortise and tenon connections.
Regards,
Kris
Layout
Nice to have my boys up to help
Walls going up
Insulating the mono slab. Would have liked to go 4 feet horizontal but couldn't do it everywhere so stayed at 2 feet.
Foam install is complete
Regards,
Kris
Graded perimeter. Corner bracing.
Need to add some fill around slab here. Tying in all of the elevations to get drainage is a challenge in this yard.
Grading in front.
Had a lot of rain in late October and early November. Got to know my squeegee really well.
View from the back deck.
More fill and grading done.
Closeup of the raised bed
Regards,
Kris
Trenching for electrical
180 LF of trench to bring 200 amp service to shop, and get rid of existing overhead to the house
Last leg of trench to the house.
Of course it rained the night after I finished the trenching. Installing conduit in the mud was a workout for me and the boys.
Regards,
Kris