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Thread: New Shop Construction

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    The primary problem with your shop design is that truck that's taking up space.

    Can you shift the building location a little to re-gain your 4-5' of footprint? That narrow space on the front is going to be pretty constraining, honestly. How about another 2-3' as that would allow you to turn the "garage bay" front to back and you'd gain a lot of space. You could also shift the stairway so it's along the wall that borders the "garage bay" for maximum space utilization. My shop building is 22x44 and was originally a 3.5 car garage build by the previous owner. I have all but the last bay on the end as my shop. Unfortunately, I do have a stairway that takes up space in the middle-back of my shop.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Deep South
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    3,970
    A lot of research has been done on the explosive nature of wood dust. It turns out, there is a minimum density of dust that will sustain a flash fire and that concentration would not allow you to survive very long in the room. You would choke before the heater would cause a fire. A dust collector can, under unusual circumstance, contain a level of dust that is explosive. That is what you need to be concerned about. I have a 5000 watt electric heater in my shop and after a summer without use, enough dust will collect on the heater coils to cause a burning smell when first used but there is no threat of fire.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    698
    <p>
    Jim D. - thanks for the suggestion. A track saw is in my future regardless of whether I modify the table saw. Jim B. - The garage will be for my wifes car - just making sure there is room to work on a larger vehicle if needed. I agree the bowling alley is problematic. I have to have the building 10 ft. off the lot line so I moved it 12 ft. off so I could drive into the back yard if needed. I could move back to the 10 ft. and gain 2 ft. - I have been considering this as I could drive in from the other side of the yard in a pinch. I am not sure what you mean by moving the garage bay front to back. Do you mean 90 degrees? I am limited to the end it is on, as that lines up with the driveway next to the house. If you meant something else I would appreciate if you expounded.</p>
    Last edited by Kris Cook; 11-30-2017 at 7:49 PM. Reason: quotes and other punctuation causing weird things to happen
    Regards,

    Kris

  4. #19
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Kris, I meant rotating the garage bay 90º which would eliminate the "bowling ally issue" but that would require the structure to be just a few feet deeper to handle most larger vehicles.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
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    I get it. I will play with the layout some more and report back. Thank you.
    Also I just read the http vs. https thread and that may be why I was having issues with my two previous posts.
    Regards,

    Kris

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,876
    You can probably buy a used panel saw for less then a quality track saw. Maybe mount the panel saw outside under cover in the driveway area?
    Bill

  7. #22
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    Jan 2017
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    MT
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    Thanks Bill - I hadnt considered a panel saw. I live in Montana so it probably needs to go inside. It might work in the narrow area I am calling the bowling alley. I am also working on adding some length to the building so that should help.
    Regards,

    Kris

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
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    698
    I added 8 feet to the length which gives me more room although I still have the bowling alley. I think I can make this work. Mostly just wanted to prove out the concept at this point so I can continue planning for the build. I still have a bathroom to gut and some floors to repair at our old house so we can get it sold in the Spring. Any additional comments/suggestions are welcome.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Regards,

    Kris

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    That extra 8 feet makes a difference in the "workshop-workshop" portion for sure and you can experiment a bit with finding the best arrangement to support workflow and assembly/finishing activities.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
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    698
    Wow. It has been almost a year since I last posted about my alleged shop build.

    Crazy busy year with getting our house ready to sell, and sold. The work thing seemed to take a fair bit of time as well...

    Was fortunate to get my dirt work done and slab poured in October. Currently starting to frame the second floor. Layout changed to essentially 22'x44' building with 22'x25' shop space and a smallish garage for my wife's car, 4-wheeler with snow plow, and probably still have room for the DC and some metal working stuff.

    I started to post earlier and got side-tracked reading some of the posts that have similar questions to mine. Lots of good information here. Actually, I can't exactly remember what I was going to ask a question about specifically. I will however be posting some pics of my build when I get a little more time.

    Should have roof decking on next week!
    Regards,

    Kris

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
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    698
    Remembered what I was going to ask.

    I am planning to put wood floors in the wood shop side of the building. Currently slick-troweled finish. 9' ceilings. I plan to install PT 2-by sleepers either over or under a vapor barrier, and put 1-1/8" plywood over that.

    Was thinking about not nailing down the sleepers - either glue or perhaps no fasteners at all. Any input/experience with either application would be appreciated.
    Regards,

    Kris

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    No need to fasten the sleepers to the floor and I'd put them on top of the vapor barrier so you can use glue for your floor panels, IMHO. Attaching them to each other will at least keep them from moving around as you add the plywood on top. IE, no need to make it a substantial structure, but you do want to keep it in place. Even staples spanning the joints can help with that. You should also be putting 1.5" rigid foam insulation between the sleepers for both the obvious benefit and to provide additional support to your floor. (not that a thick panel needs that much) Again, IMHO. This assumes you are not using radiant heating in the floor... Once the flooring is installed, everything will be locked together very nicely and you will not have penetrated your concrete.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #28
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    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
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    698
    Thanks Jim. I like it. Definitely will be doing the foam, as well.
    Regards,

    Kris

  14. #29
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    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
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    Final Dimensions of Shop

    This is where I ended up with the size and layout.

    Shop Layout 11-15-18 - Cropped.jpg

    Shop footprint is 22x25. Layout shown here is conceptual but a start.
    Regards,

    Kris

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    How do you intend to keep the shop pooch in that particular position all the time?
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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