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Thread: Etching stainless steel... & warping

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Ankeny Iowa USA
    Posts
    2,564
    I always use DNA instead of IPA for cleaning.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa. , Ray Fine 20w Galvo Fiber laser , LightObject 40w CO2. MakerGear M2 3D Printer. Qe60+ Vinyl cutter. Automation Tech Chinese 6040 Router running on Mach3 and UC400ETH

  2. #17
    I rarely Cermark SS on my Triumph (the big outlines on the SS ski lift operator panels I etch is about it for SS) and never text, because the mark is always a hazy brownish darkish gray, somewhere in the 70% black spectrum, whereas my RF machines produce a nice 90% 'charcoal' black with no hint of brown. The other issue with the Triumph marking is when view at certain angles, the mark almost disappears, my RF marking does lighten up a bit at certain angles, but is always 'there' and legible.

    That said, I've always had better luck with cleaning my materal first. Not because of the quality of the "look" of the mark, but because it enhances adhesion and durability of the mark. Virtually every Cermark 'failure' I've every had was due to either a focus issue, or not cleaning the material first. And as for cleaning, in my experience it doesn't matter what I clean with- DNA, IPA, Windex, Fantastic- as long as I DID clean first, I've never had a failure.

    Regardless of whether I pre-cleaned or not (Yeti's come to mind ), I've never noticed a difference in the look of the mark.

    And then there's aluminum, while the Triumph sucks at stainless, it shines at Cermarking aluminum and brass- which is good, because my lower powered RF machines just don't have the power..



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