Which connection is better when building two side by side 84"H x 30"W(60"total) x 24"D pantry cabinets out of melamine? Would there be a difference in strength?
[OP]
Member
Which connection is better when building two side by side 84"H x 30"W(60"total) x 24"D pantry cabinets out of melamine? Would there be a difference in strength?
Contributor
Number 2 is preferable.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Member
+1 #2.
Assuming same basic fasteners in both cases, the strength may not be much different. However, if you put a screw thru the side face into the edge of top/bottom/shelves (ala #1), the head will show.
Only thing that would complicate this is if you plan to 'pick up' the pantry to move it. With the shelves loaded, #2 puts the fasteners in tension, not shear, and they could pull out of what I assume will be particle board. DAMHIKT.
...All design is a compromise.
Member
There isn't a huge difference between the two, assuming the bottom is well supported by legs or a base. One thing I would ask is if these are to be built as two separate units then bolted or screwed together or if the two units share one side? If the latter, then option 2 will be easier to do the joinery. Also, if you are going to put heavy things on top of the units, then option 2 is better as well. Having said that, I generally prefer option 1 because I find the exposed edges are better hidden this way. I end up doing less edging, only along the front.
Edit: per what Malcolm said, Option 1 using screws would leave the heads visible. I usually go with dowels or loose tenons so nothing is visible from the side.
Last edited by Davis Young; 07-06-2017 at 2:29 PM.
Contributor
Number one will be a metric ton easier to level, especially in a garage with a pitched floor. Set the bottom shelf about 3" up from the bottom of the sides so that you can reach under and shim as needed or get fancy and scribe them to fit for plumb.
Last edited by John Lanciani; 07-06-2017 at 3:52 PM.
Contributor
make sure to keep the partical off the garage floor, it will soak up moisture and disintegrate. i would do # 2 and build a base with 2x, level the base then install the cabinet.
[OP]
Member
These will be wall to wall cabinets in the garage so I'm not too worried about screws showing. Everything will be screwed into the wall and the bottom units will have legs. Everything will be 24" depth except for the 3 cupboard directly above the work bench. I'm planning on using dowels (glued) to make assembly easier with Confirmat screws. Not sure if I need to rabbet the backing or just use the screws/dowel combo with some RooGlue Clear. What do you recommend? The image with the red X's shows which units will be built as a single piece.
What size confirmat screws should I use?
What size pilot drill bit w/countersink should I use?
What diameter Fluted Dowel Pins should i use?
All boxes will be 3/4" Melamine PB with 1/2" Melamine PB Backing
They will be attached to the wall with 3/4" pine cleats
garagecabs.jpgGarage Design.jpg
[OP]
Member
I'm going to get adjustable metal legs and keep the cabinets off the ground. My garage is graded 2" from the cabinet height on the right side all the way to 5" off the ground at the left side near the fridge.
I'll probably these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pcs-Stainl...3D272618778379
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