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Thread: 50 dollar DJ-15/ REALLY RUSTY

  1. #1

    Unhappy 50 dollar DJ-15/ REALLY RUSTY

    Hello all! I am new to this forum, but a frequent visitor of lumberjocks, and want to get as much help as possible.

    I recently purchased a DJ-15 for $50 of an old woodworker trying to get rid of it. It was sitting in his front yard, and looks as if it had been for a long while. When i got it home, i found several wasps nest under the infeed bed(still alive)!

    Anyway, I am a beginning woodworker and would love to get this up and running (it's my first jointer) and nice and clean. (already converted to 115 v)

    So far, I have run the motor and the cutter head, and they run rather quite, so I am not concerned about bearings.

    My main concern is the rust and pitting on the ways, fence, and the cabinet.
    Scotch brite pads aren't working very well, as most of this rust is pretty deep. I've used wd-40, goo gone, bar keepers friend, all with scotch brite pads or razors.
    I want a nice looking tool, a lot of the top is black and its difficult to tell the rust apart from the carbon(?).
    I saw DjFalkners post on restoring his dj-15, and i want to wet sand mine as well, but i am afraid of throwing the ways out of square.

    What should I do?
    Below are several pics of my progress.

    Before any work:
    DJ-15Before.jpg
    Serial&model.jpg
    Dj-cabinet b4.jpg
    Dj-15during.jpg
    Dj bed b4.jpg

    After scrubbing (and removing old masking tape from fence)
    IMG_0326.jpg
    IMG_0327.jpg
    IMG_0328.jpg

  2. #2
    Here are the rest of the after pics:
    IMG_0330.jpgIMG_0331.jpgIMG_0332.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Moscow, Idaho
    Posts
    294
    It looks like a pretty nice machine for the price. A wire wheel, Evaporust, electrolysis, and even bead blasting can help clean up a machine like this. You might joint the owwm.org forum and search the archives for mor information. While it may look pretty rough right now, it's something can can be cleaned up and restored so it looks and works like new if you want want to put the work into it.

    --Geoff

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    4,973
    Good machine, well worth the time it will take to rehab. One piece at a time........

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
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    6,529
    Razor blade as much as you can. Then Put that scotch brite pad under an angle grinder with a wire cup wheel and have at it. Work through the grits. Should clean it up pretty good.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?224326-keeping-cast-iron-Machine-tops-clean-the-easy-way

    http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworki...brite-ratings/
    Last edited by Matt Day; 05-04-2017 at 9:18 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    2,831
    Yup, take your time and one step at a time..... though I might suggest reversing your priorities. Bearings, (cutterhead and motor), should be replaced whether quiet or not, pretty unlikely they'll be in great shape with that kind of abuse and far more important than a pretty table. Realistically your never going to get it to look like new, but it doesn't need to. Get the rust off and clean it as much as your comfortable with. I'm thinking a bit of careful sanding will clean up the tables enough for use. The pitting is too deep and I doubt you'd get it out without grinding, which unless you could get it done by a friend for free is not likely to be worth it. But as long as the surfaces are flat and true, the pitting is not going to bother the lumber going over them

    good luck,
    JeffD

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    1,740
    Get a copy of the manual online and take it apart completely. Gets some plastic bags and mark what's in them, ex cutter head screws, gib screws, etc. take tons of pictures complete and as you break it down so you have something to reference.

    Put a wire wheel on your grinder (buy a buffer at Harbor Freight with a course and fine wire wheel) and clean every bolt, nut, etc. Scrape and sand all of the rust off the jointer and buy some paint and repainted it. Get a new belt and knives and out it back together. It will look and work like its new.

    As Matt said join OWWM if you haven't and there is plently of info on restorations. Don't be scared of messing it up since they are very simple machines.

    Dont be too concerned about hitting the tables with a wire wheel to get the rust off. You really have to try to grind away the top to screw it up. Even if you have a slight divot it won't affect a board unless you divot the whole table.
    Last edited by Don Jarvie; 05-04-2017 at 9:28 PM.
    Don

  8. #8
    Thanks for the replies guys!
    I was given the original manual with the machine(crazy right?)
    also, the prices on new cutterheads scare me more than the jointer does!
    I really dont have much money to replace part right now, but can replace them over time.
    I already wire wheeled the whole bed, and it still is this bad.
    What do you guys think about wet sanding?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
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    6,926
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan Brophy View Post
    What do you guys think about wet sanding?
    Not unless you're really, really, good at it. You could easily sand it "out of flat".
    I know that you want it to look nice, but don't set your sights on showroom new unless you're wiling to invest in machine shop work. Get the rust off, which takes time for the chemicals to work and elbow grease. See where you're at for flatness of tables and the ability to adjust everything to co-planer on the beds, and a right angle at the fence. A jointer is a very simple machine. Flat, and square, are the most important aspects.

    Why do you think you need a new cutterhead?
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    9,879
    Disasemble as much as you can then submerge parts in water and edta for a day or two then wash off the rust with a pressure washer or scrub brush. Oil imediately to stop flash rust. Do not use sandpaper, scrotch brite etc or surfaces will no longer be flat.
    I use a old plastic salt tank from water softener as my dip tank. I also used a Rubbermaid stock trough for a big job.
    Bill D.

    EDTA and water is the same as evoporust at about 1/20 the cost. Rust removed will be about equal inweight to the EDTA used up. EDTA is a few dollars per pound, water is free.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Pottstown PA
    Posts
    972
    Oh man what a freakin steal of a deal you got! That rust ain't nothing to deal with. If it were me, I'd work on the top and get that clear. Bunches of ways to clear that. I'd wire wheel it first to get the loose stuff off, and then use some chemicals to get the rest off, many rust off options out there. I always liked naval jelly. Stinks and better use gloves due to caustic nature, but gets it done.

    Plan on replacing the bearings on the head. If you have a battery charger use electrolisis to remove the rust. I do that all the time and it works great! Watch this vid.

    https://youtu.be/54ADeB6V1rQ

    The motor could be a chore, but just work at it and if all else fails see if you have any motor repair places are around locally or replace it.

    Again what a steal man, you a luck dude.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
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    4,973
    Do some digging on the bearings for the head. If they are the same ones that is used on the DJ20 I have a new set that I will send you to get you on your way.

    Would not worry about the motor until it is a problem, if its not broke don't fix it.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Spring Hill FL.
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    If that's what it looks like after spending time in a front yard, you must live somewhere pretty darn dry!
    Here in FL it would look like it went down with the Titanic. Nice Score, she will clean up nice.
    Andrew Gibson
    Program Manger and Resident Instructor
    Florida School Of Woodwork

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    New England, in a town on the way to nowhere
    Posts
    537
    Use a razor blade scraper for the rust-DRY. WD or chemicals just lubricate the edge and it won't scrape the rust up. Wear a mask or respirator. Afterwards,, clean with a scotchbrite with some Evaporust for a while, rinse with water, dry and wipe down with some wax on steel wool. Polish when dry.
    The razor blades will need to be changed frequently, I'd say you'll go through about a dozen.

  15. #15
    I would clean up the base and repaint it, maybe repaint the painted areas on the jointer itself, but just buff the machine as clean as possible and use it. Careful about using a wire brush on a grinder, as those wires break off and can fly into your eye. A friend had that happen, and he lost most of the sight in that eye and had at least 2 surgeries on it. He said the pain was undescribable.

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