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Thread: Walnut coffee table, Jens Risom design

  1. #1

    Walnut coffee table, Jens Risom design

    I saw a neat coffee table designed by Jens Risom, a fairly prominent mid-century furniture designer, and decided to build my own copy. I hadn't built any interior furniture bigger than a little plant stand before, and I'd never really worked with hardwood, either.

    It's all made of 4/4 walnut, assembled using dowels, some mortise and tenons, and Z-clips to attach the tabletop to the frame. For a newbie, I'm quite happy with the way it turned out.

    I've attached a couple of selected photos of the finished project, and I've got a full build album here: http://imgur.com/a/2XfK7 -- there's a screenshot of the original inspiration in there, too.

    IEfiUn2.jpg EZ9FwVj.jpg bKHkTLN.jpg

    Thanks for looking! I learned a lot about the finishing process from this forum.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Very nice work!
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    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Very interesting design! Well executed too. I like it!

  4. #4
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    Cool design. Very nice job.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Kingston, ON, Canada
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    Good workmanship! Details about the finish you'd like to share with us?
    Marty Schlosser
    Kingston, ON, Canada
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/apexwoodworks/
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    YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkmbvXb44CJ9t17SbHEWxJg/videos

  6. #6
    Thanks, everyone! I appreciate your kind comments. A little more detail on the finish: it is all Waterlox Original. I sanded to 220 grit, and put about 6 coats of varnish on. This is the first time I've used Waterlox so I experimented a little bit. The first two coats were pretty heavy: brushed on with a cheap disposable foam brush. I know the instructions recommend a natural bristle brush to avoid bubbling. I tried one coat with natural bristles, and I didn't get significantly less bubbling, so I went back to foam--easier to "clean up" by just tossing the brush. Between the thick coats, I sanded really gently with a fine-grit pad. Then I switched to the "fast food busboy" technique and just put a few really thin and quick coats on with a lint-free cloth. I didn't want to build up the finish too much, so I stopped at around 6 coats, with a nice glossy surface and a tiny bit of the grain texture still showing through.

    My understanding is that the glossy finish will soften up a bit to semi-gloss over time. So far I'm really pleased with Waterlox--it seems very forgiving and easy to work with compared to a poly finish. I'll definitely be using it for future projects, where appropriate!

    -Tim

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Saratoga NY
    Posts
    64
    Tim nice coffee table. My sister just asked me for one to go with her other Jens Rison table. I plan to start one soon. Thanks for the link on how you did yours.

    Frank

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Ingleside, IL
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    1,417
    Very well done Tim. Rison has some cool designs and that's one of my favorites, which you did justice to for sure.
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    Grafton NY
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    276
    Nicely done!
    Some Blue Tools
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati, OH
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    924
    Elegant. Job well done. Thanks for sharing!
    Rustic? Well, no. That was not my intention!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Central, PA
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    416
    Very nice!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Crozet, VA
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    648
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Gerla View Post
    Thanks, everyone! I appreciate your kind comments. A little more detail on the finish: it is all Waterlox Original. I sanded to 220 grit, and put about 6 coats of varnish on. This is the first time I've used Waterlox so I experimented a little bit. The first two coats were pretty heavy: brushed on with a cheap disposable foam brush. I know the instructions recommend a natural bristle brush to avoid bubbling. I tried one coat with natural bristles, and I didn't get significantly less bubbling, so I went back to foam--easier to "clean up" by just tossing the brush. Between the thick coats, I sanded really gently with a fine-grit pad. Then I switched to the "fast food busboy" technique and just put a few really thin and quick coats on with a lint-free cloth. I didn't want to build up the finish too much, so I stopped at around 6 coats, with a nice glossy surface and a tiny bit of the grain texture still showing through.

    My understanding is that the glossy finish will soften up a bit to semi-gloss over time. So far I'm really pleased with Waterlox--it seems very forgiving and easy to work with compared to a poly finish. I'll definitely be using it for future projects, where appropriate!

    -Tim
    Tim — Nice work on the table ... once the Waterlox fully cures (it takes a while) you can always rub out the finish to lower the sheen. This is typically done with 0000 steel wool and wax but there are other techniques as well.
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

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