Plans for turning a spindle table

[Acharya Kumarswami]

I have attached a picture of an elegant spindle table. Does anyone have experience/plans of the best strategy for the three pieces? Here's my plan. Am I on the right track?

I'm so far thinking of turning a tenon on the bottom of the top, then holding that with deep reach jaws. That tenon would have a hole for a tenon in the end of the pedestal. The pedestal seems straightforward; tenon on top and bottom.

Base: turn between centers and make a recess under the bottom for chuck jaws, then shape the top section.

Possibly add some timber screws up through the base into the pedestal? Glue only for the upper joint.

Thank you

[Mark Greenbaum]

How do you attach the top to the recessed top of the spindle pedestal?

[Acharya Kumarswami]

If it would be strong enough, I am thinking the tenon on the top end of the pedestal inserts into a mortise in the bottom of the table top.

[Mark Greenbaum]

If it would be strong enough, I am thinking the tenon on the top end of the pedestal inserts into a mortise in the bottom of the table top.

Then what? Glued?That would make an end grain joint, which is not as strong as side grain.

[Reed Gray]

I would probably add a little more flare to the spindle where it meets the table top. As for the glue joint, with a recess/mortice 1/2 inch deep, it would be typical mortice and tenon joinery, and the sides of the tenon would supply a good glue surface. Not sure how big I would make it though. Probably best to keep it in the 1 1/2 inch size to account for seasonal wood movement, and a bit deeper, like 1 1/2 inch as well. You can also do a wedged tenon: cut slots in the tenon, prepare wedges to go into the slots, then pound it in so the tenon flares a bit and you have a dove tail of sorts. If you have a long enough tenon, you can also run a dowel/peg through it.

robo hippy

[Dennis Ford]

I would be concerned about the strength of a side grain tenon on the top and would also prefer a tenon on the pedestal. Make the tenon as large (diameter) as possible and as long as possible. The top to pedestal joint is a weak link for this design.

[Acharya Kumarswami]

Thank you all for weighing in. I came up with a slight change that I think helps the tenon problem a bit. Glue on a 4 inch thick block to the top and bottom so that the flare is all part of the big circles. That gives almos six inches of mass (cross-grain) for a tenon on the ends of the pedestal. We can dovetail the mortise a bit and use a wedge, as Robbo advised. Also, I thought I can cut a shallow recess (straight walled, not dovetailed) to accommodate shark jaws, expanding into that space to hold and finish turning the pieces. Then the pedestal can have a second short shoulder to fill that space. I'm still fiddling with the diameter of the pedestal. The picture seems to have it at 3" or less, as far as I can guess. But I'm thinking 3-1/2".