Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 37 of 37

Thread: Radial Arm Saw Table Modifications

  1. #31
    Nice clean and complete saw! I don't think mine had paint that looked that good since the '60s, mine is missing the rip pawl (but with a seized yoke rotation stop bolt, I couldn't rip if I wanted to), and mine also has an obviously but not badly made shop-made end cap, which fortunately contains the start/stop pushbuttons which in completely OSHA-violating fashion operate at full line voltage.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Williamston, MI
    Posts
    464
    I also added a paddle style switch under the table so I can turn the saw off with my knee. If you look close, you can also see two threaded rods that run from the rear table to the front so I can loosen the fence from the front of the table. I use the dowel jig as a stop block.

    IMG_0766.jpgIMG_0767.jpg

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Southeast MI.
    Posts
    374
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Gregory View Post
    Do you dado with your saw?
    Yeah as stated in post #25 above I cut the lap-joints shown in pic# 3 above. The cuts were made at full depth (a little over 1" deep) with a 3/4" wide Freud stack dado set.

    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Gregory View Post
    You would use an angled guide such as Andy Besette did against the fence that stops just to the left of your blade to make an angled cut.
    I have done something like that several times now & it works pretty good! The angled sub-fence pieces are held in-place with clamps & the table's T-tracks, But I'm probably going to still add some T-track to the sub-fence angles to help better hold the stock in-place.

    Doug
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #34
    had a sears at the beginning and did a few things with it. Then mostly for cross cutting rough lumber. It was pretty lousey for that, under powered and it kicked out a heat sensor reset thing then have to wait for some period of time and press the button for it to come to life again, My skill saw has more balls than that saw had.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    395
    Seems like a good opportunity to buy literally any miter saw.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Southeast MI.
    Posts
    374
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    had a sears at the beginning and did a few things with it. Then mostly for cross cutting rough lumber.
    Yeah I've heard that from several others also!

    In my case the 10" Craftsman I have cuts really good & surprisingly stays squared & lined-up pretty well!

    It's kind of ironic since I originally planned to use this 10" Craftsman just as a prototype machine to test out my "T" track table ideas & then use that design on a older Dewalt. After using the Craftsman for awhile now, I'm really happy with it & I'm not in any hurry to start on the Dewalt.

    My final table/fence design will be used on a 12" Dewalt T-1533 with a 2hp. 3-phase motor. The Dewalt is currently disassembled & waiting to be rebuilt & reassembled once I decide on a top/fence design.

    Doug

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Southeast MI.
    Posts
    374
    I added a sliding top to my RAS!
    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-Table-For-RAS


    Doug

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •