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Thread: Radial Arm Saw Table Modifications

  1. #31
    Nice clean and complete saw! I don't think mine had paint that looked that good since the '60s, mine is missing the rip pawl (but with a seized yoke rotation stop bolt, I couldn't rip if I wanted to), and mine also has an obviously but not badly made shop-made end cap, which fortunately contains the start/stop pushbuttons which in completely OSHA-violating fashion operate at full line voltage.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Williamston, MI
    Posts
    454
    I also added a paddle style switch under the table so I can turn the saw off with my knee. If you look close, you can also see two threaded rods that run from the rear table to the front so I can loosen the fence from the front of the table. I use the dowel jig as a stop block.

    IMG_0766.jpgIMG_0767.jpg

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Southeast MI.
    Posts
    134
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Gregory View Post
    Do you dado with your saw?
    Yeah as stated in post #25 above I cut the lap-joints shown in pic# 3 above. The cuts were made at full depth (a little over 1" deep) with a 3/4" wide Freud stack dado set.

    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Gregory View Post
    You would use an angled guide such as Andy Besette did against the fence that stops just to the left of your blade to make an angled cut.
    I have done something like that several times now & it works pretty good! The angled sub-fence pieces are held in-place with clamps & the table's T-tracks, But I'm probably going to still add some T-track to the sub-fence angles to help better hold the stock in-place.

    Doug
    Attached Images Attached Images

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