Wide Chisel Question

[Matthew Springer]

I have a really wide two cherries, but can I offer another suggestion?

Use an old/spare plane blade and epoxy on a handle to one side (or both sides). You can find old plane blades with good steel cheaply. They're easy to sharpen and you don't actually need all that much force when pairing.

There's a article from one of the magazines that's completely escaped my memory, but they used a rosewood "handle" on one side epoxied on with threaded inserts, then another rosewood handle on the other side that screwed into the inserts. Basically a rosewood sandwich with the plane blade in the middle.

Then they had a flush plane or a 2.5" wide marking "chisel" when attached.

[Bruce Haugen]

I’m in a unique position in that I don’t have much to start with. I don’t currently have any wide chisels or any shoulder planes so I need to pick up something for a table project I’m going to attempt with some large tenons. I guess the question for me now is what would be the most versatile? That’s why I was leaning towards the chisel instead of the shoulder plane.

I'm in the envious position of having both wide chisels and a shoulder plane. They're both wonderful. The chisel is more versatile, IMHO. I find many uses for the shoulder plane but more uses for a chisel. If it works for Warren, it'll work for you.

[Mike Henderson]

I have a really wide two cherries, but can I offer another suggestion?

Use an old/spare plane blade and epoxy on a handle to one side (or both sides). You can find old plane blades with good steel cheaply. They're easy to sharpen and you don't actually need all that much force when pairing.

There's a article from one of the magazines that's completely escaped my memory, but they used a rosewood "handle" on one side epoxied on with threaded inserts, then another rosewood handle on the other side that screwed into the inserts. Basically a rosewood sandwich with the plane blade in the middle.

Then they had a flush plane or a 2.5" wide marking "chisel" when attached.

That's a great idea. Thanks for posting that.

Mike

[John C Cox]

This is an instance where I don't think the geometry of the current budget/cheap chisels will help you... The wide chisels in the cheap hardware store flavors seem to have short blades and a large hump where they meet the tang... And that's going to limit your cut to whatever length the blade is.. Generally pretty short... 3 or 4 inches. Maybe it doesn't matter if your tenon is only 2" long though.. In that case - Stanley, Buck, Irwin, Kobalt are generally available at local stores.

On on the big old chisels - I think I saw the opposite when I was looking for the smaller ones. Not many people use the huge wide chisels - so there were always plenty of those used.. Try to find a 1/2" or 3/4" and you were out of luck though.

As for modern offerings - there are plenty out there. Google up 50mm chisels and you will see that it's not really an uncommon size. Brands including Narex, Sorby, Two cherries, Marples..... Pick your poison.

[Frederick Skelly]

I use a wide chisel to trim shoulders. I didnt get carried away - I just went to Lowes and bought one off the shelf. Dont need it often. It stays sharp a long time.

[steven c newman]

I can just walk into any of the BORG stores around here, and walk back out with a 2" wide chisel.....IF I wanted to. Normally, the widest I ever use is a 1" wide chisel..
I also have a shoulder plane..
shoulder plane.JPG
Has a 1-1/4" wide iron, set at a skew
DSCF0002.JPG
Ohio Tool Co. 1.25" Might be older than I am?
I have a drawer full of older, wide chisels......up to a Jennings 1-1/2" wide chisel.....haven't really found much use for them...

[Malcolm McLeod]

... wide chisels or ... shoulder planes .... attempt...some large tenons .... what would be the most versatile?

First time I used a shoulder plane to tune a tenon I thought I was cheating. Can it be so easy?

[Nathan Johnson]

A while back I ordered the premium set of four Narex chisels (the ones that don't have the hoop on the top) and I like them. I think this thread has convinced me to order the 2" to match what I have and spend just a little extra over the hardware store options.

[lowell holmes]

I also have two 2" wide framing slicks that I put new handles on. They are at least 100 years old. One of them is really thick and heavy. When they were handed down to me from my Father-in-law, one had been beat upon with out handle. I filed the dings out of it and made a new handle for it. The other is a lighter chisel, not a slick really. It has a tang, so the handle is different. I really enjoy them when I have need to use one.

[Bill McDermott]

John, You may want to consider springing for a block rabbet plane to accomplish the tenon trimming. It is much easier to control than a chisel. It can also serve as a block plane, a shoulder plane and it can cut rabbets. In any case, if you are still building your tool kit, a block rabbet is a very versatile tool and an easy way to trim tenons. Costs more than a chisel, but you'll be glad to have it. If you don't already have a block plane - seriously consider this.

[george wilson]

In my whole career,I have never had the need to pare tenons with other than a 1" wide chisel. And,I am SUCH a chisel and carving tool HOG!!!

[Robert Engel]

For paring tenon shoulders I use a 1" chisel and/or a shoulder plane. For the faces I use a router plane. For wider tenons in I find a rabbet block plane usefull.

I don't think you need (or want) a chisel wider than 1" however, I have a 2" Narex chisel that has served me well (other than 1 hour of working on the back never could get it flat).

Larger timber frame type projects like a workbench or table you might consider a slick which I think can be purchased quite reasonably.

Another option (and carefully!) use a rasp in the manner of a float to tune up the tenons.