Wipe-On Poly over Antique Oil

[Bennett Ostroff]

When finishing woods with varying porosity (namely walnut) I've found that it can take a number of coats of oil-based wipe-on poly (or other wiping varnish) for the color to even out / to get an even build. Often I have to build the finish more than I'd like to in order for things to even out.

I've tried Sealcoat shellac first to help seal porous areas, but I don't like the color it gives the walnut as much as an oil-based finish.

I know a lot of people do BLO > shellac > poly/topcoat. Instead of BLO, can I use Minwax Antique Oil first to get an even rich oil color, then shellac (necessary?) then poly topcoat? I like that the Antique oil dries faster (12-24 hrs) than BLO.

1) Are there any concerns/downsides using this method?
2) Is the sealcoat necessary for a barrier before WOP?
3) Are there any easier methods to getting a rich color on walnut more quickly before moving to topcoats?
4) Would any of the tinted shellacs (orange/amber/garnet?) give a very similar color to walnut as oil would?

[Stan Calow]

Bennett, I am pretty sure that despite its name, Minwax Antique Oil is ​a wiping varnish. Thats why it dries so fast. I'm quoting Bob Flexner on this, so not just my opinion.

[Jim Tobias]

Bennett,
I'm actually trying to figure out a process that is similar to your question. Don't have a final answer yet. What I am trying to do is figure out a quicker way to get a solid/consistent finish on some pieces of spalted maple. I also like the look/application of Minwax Antique Oil but the spalted maple just soaks it(and any other finish ) up like a sponge. I'm trying some grain fillers(diluted Timber Mate and also Aqua Coat) to see if they can accelerate my finishing schedule. I am also trying General Finishes Seal-a-Cell to see if several coats of that will A) fill the wood pores and B) not cause any issues with the Minwax Antique Oil. The Seal-A-Cell actually has some oil in it and gives the wood a warm look(lighter in color than Minwax Antique Oil.
I am trying both Minwax Antique Oil first and then Seal-A-Cell before adding more coats of the Minwax Antique Oil, and reversing the procedure to see if the outcome/look is different. I making numerous small boxes and am also trying this on a few other woods(Walnut, Cherry, etc).
Will repost once I can figure out what my best combo is. If anyone has applied several coats of Seal-A-Cell attempting to fill pores, please let me know. I know I could use grain fillers, but I also use dyes(all colors) on some of the spalted maple and do not like how some fillers accept the dyes.

Jim

https://generalfinishes.com/retail-p...r#.WMQp2Pnyvas

[Steve Schoene]

Minwax Antique Oil is a oil/varnish mix. Check out Flexner revised edition, p. 85. That said it will work just fine to bring out the color of walnut. One liberal coat will work. Then you can go to top coats. You might find a coat or two of "full strength" varnish to achieve a more rapid fill of the different porosity. No reason for shellac in the mix since even poly will adhere to (cured) oil/varnish. Once you begin to get a film on the surface be sure to lightly sand the film, 320 or 400 grit, before applying poly topcoats whether full strength or wipe on.