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Thread: New TormekT8

  1. #31
    To me the the T7 closeout at $200 less is a much better deal. The few upgrades were not so appealing to me.
    Still getting used to the leather wheel freehand honing.

  2. Yes indeed 🤣

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    N Illinois
    Posts
    4,602
    Two of the advantages of The TORMEK are its accuracy on the angle in its fixed position and two, it will handle any WIDTH blade....Worth the $ investment..IMHO
    Jerry

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,492
    I have a Tormek 2006 model. There is no significant difference between this and the latest version. Mine also has the stainless steel shaft. It has the earlier blade holder (SE76). I purchased a SE77, but am not that keen on it - its main advantage is to grind a camber, but I do not recommend this for smoothing planes if you are experienced with sharpening since the camber is minute. You do not want to overdo the camber. The SE76 ends up being easier to use.

    The other difference is the water trough, which was improved on T7. Upgrade to a CBN wheel (when the original wheel wears out), and you no longer need water to cool, and one more source of mess is gone!

    I love the Tormek, but I am dedicated to using handtools whenever possible, and sharpening is a frequent and vitally important affair. I still have the Tormek, but have now "upgraded" to a 8" half-speed grinder with 180 and 80 grit CBN wheels. Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...ningSetUp.html

    Below is an article I wrote about the Tormek in 2010. I think that most experienced hand tool users would agree with my argument. Predominantly power tool users may not identify with the issues involved ....

    The answer is really to add water- or oil stones to the sharpening regime.



    Is the Tormek a Grinder or a Sharpener, and are 30K grits for Wankers?




    I love my Tormek, but I have had a number of "debates" with the US representative of Tormek, who insists on calling it a sharpener" while I insist on it being seen to be a grinder. This is not simply a different choice of words to mean the same thing.

    He argues that the Tormek is a sharpening system since the honing wheel will convert the 1000 gritted grind to a 8000 grit edge. I argue that this may be so, but I would not use it (others might, not me) on wood if I want a good finish. There is more to sharpening and preparing an edge - be it chisel or plane blade - than simply "sharp".

    "Sharp" is for me synonymous with "smooth" - a smooth edge is a sharp edge. As you go up the grit ratings, so you create an ever increasing smooth edge, that is, the edge serrations become smaller and smaller. This transfers to your wood, and the finish is smoother as well.

    There is a second factor. Taking an edge off a 1000 grit wheel and honing it on a 8000 wheel strop does not necessarily produce a
    flat edge. The edge may be 8000, it may feel sharp (cut arm hair) etc, but it can be curved/serrated/grooved, etc.

    Instead one should take the edge off a Tormek (or any grinder) and smooth/straighten it out on a flat waterstone (or sandpaper, etc). I go to a 1000 Shapton for this. But if you are doing this, then there is NO NEED to go higher than 220 on the Tormek (that is, you do not need to first re-surface the wheel to 1000 grit before moving on) ... a big time saver!

    ... and so on to 8000, 12000, etc ... whatever you want.

    But wait ... there is more!!!

    Is a 12000 or 15000 or 30000 grit stone only for wankers?


    No. Edges often fail, not because the steel is not strong enough, but because it
    is strong enough! This means that edges are more likely to chip than to bend. Chipping is more likely to occur where there are serrations, and the larger the serrations, the greater the propensity for chipping.

    Soooooo .... the smaller the serrations, the less likely the chipping ... hence a higher grit sharpening will hold an edge longer than a lower grit sharpened blade.

    One more thing to consider. I was reading Ron Hock’s new book, The Perfect Edge, the Ultimate Guide to Sharpening for Woodworkers, on sharpening in which he presents evidence that Side Sharpening leaves an edge with fewer serrations than front-and-back honing.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek



  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Conway, Arkansas
    Posts
    13,182
    Love my Tormek.....but of course, I'm still using the Tormek Supergrind 2000.
    Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
    Dennis -
    Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
    ....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Peacock View Post
    Love my Tormek.....but of course, I'm still using the Tormek Supergrind 2000.
    Me too, I have a 1200 grit CBN on mine. If you get tired of the thing let me know - I'd love to have a second one so I can use the CBN and the water wheel.

    JKJ

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Potter View Post
    Andrew,

    What advantage is there in moving from the 2000 to the T-8? Just curious.
    .
    My guess is..... larger diameter stone, so, (1) it lasts longer and (2) shallower concave grind.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    Primary reason that I like my Tormek is that I really like the hollow grind..... I find that i am able to very quickly free hand any touch-ups so that I do not need to fire up the Tormek that often, it is mostly just hand on my water stones until it is time for another major resharpening.

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