Gorilla wood glue vs. Titebond

[Bill Dindner]

I was thinking about trying a new basic wood glue, but I'm happy with Titebond II, maybe it's just the tinkerer in me.

[Dave Lehnert]

The Gorilla Wood glue has been on the market for a few years now. I have used it and it worked very well. Not going to say it is better but at least just as good.
Another Gorilla glue product I have used with excellent results is their Super Glue. I built a few fretwork clocks out of Walnut and cherry that are held together with the Gorilla Super Glue. Only brand I now buy.

Just to be clear
Gorilla brand Gorilla Glue is the stuff that foams 81QmDZA4IJL._SL1500_.jpg

Gorilla brand Wood Glue is what the Op is asking about.

[Chris Padilla]

That's very interesting, Chris. I've used poly glue on veneer bubbles because it sticks to anything but I always slit the veneer and inserted it under the veneer. I'll have to try your technique.

Just because I'm curious, how did you discover your technique?

Mike

Our buddy Paul Schurch!! How is that for confirmation it works?

[Brian Tymchak]

I've used it and like it. It has all the strength I've ever needed, which granted hasn't been a serious concern for my projects, and it leaves much less noticeable glue line in lighter woods that TBII, which dries orangish, and TBIII which is browner. That said, TBIII I think has a bit longer open time, so if the glue lines don't matter as much, and the pieces are larger, I will use it. But for small jobs, GWG is my go to glue.

[Van Huskey]

Keep in mind the OP is talking about the Gorilla Glue BRAND of PVA not what most of us think of when Gorilla Glue is used which is a polyurethane glue. While I have not used the GG brand of PVA I have never been able to "see" any practical difference in holding power for any PVA, just different open times, water resistance and color when dry.

BTW Chris, thanks for passing on the polyurethane glue tip from Schurch thats one I have missed and will be VERY useful. Despite the fact it basically becomes invisible I always hated slitting veneer and if you had a lot of problems on a glue up it can waste a lot of time.

[Barry Richardson]

I concur with Brian, I use Gorilla wood glue now cause it dries pretty much clear, and in my experience is just as strong as titebond. I believe it is rated as type 2 for waterproofness, same as TBII

[Chris Padilla]

Weeeeeeellllllllllllll it looks like I'll have to pick up a bottle of Gorilla WOOD glue and try it out sometime...just to say I did try it. I'm very curious about the glue line color. I work A LOT of maple and it would probably blend a tad better than TB-III although glue line colors aren't typically an issue for me.

As to the veneer/poly glue/Schurch tip, there is a thread on here somewhere where I took a marquetry/inlay class that David Marks hosted at his place starring Paul Schurch. I picked up all kinds of little tips and trick there. Paul even purposely created a veneer bubble just to show us how to seamlessly take care of it.

Guys, I gotta tell you that I thought there was zero hope for the veneer panel I glued up because it was a wrinkly, bubbly complete and total mess. My heart sank when I took it out of the press. I basically 'painted' the Gorilla poly glue over the entire surface...full sheet of wax paper...cauls...and threw it back in the veneer press not expecting much. Like I said, it came out all opaque and this sickly yellow color and my heart sank further wondering how I wasn't going to burn through the veneer trying to remove this mess of poly. However, through some of the more clear areas, I could see the veneer was, indeed, pressed back flat. I figured "what have I got to lose" and I went about sanding all that stuff off. The only way I didn't sand through the veneer must have because the poly glue itself was helping somehow. It hardened up everything and embedded everywhere...or something. I am still shocked I didn't sand through it and further shocked how well it turned out in the end. I cursed myself for not taking pics but who would think to take pics of such a deplorable situation?! LOL! I fully planned to chuck the whole thing in the garbage!

[Art Mann]

While I have not used the GG brand of PVA I have never been able to "see" any practical difference in holding power for any PVA, just different open times, water resistance and color when dry.

Yes! In years gone by, I have done comparative destructive testing on Titebond I, II,and III and Elmers white glue. In all cases, the wood failed rather than the glue joint. I would be willing to bet the Gorilla PVA formulation will do exactly the same thing. The Gorilla brand doesn't offer any practical advantage over Titebond that I can tell. Why change?

[Wade Lippman]

Yes! In years gone by, I have done comparative destructive testing on Titebond I, II,and III and Elmers white glue. In all cases, the wood failed rather than the glue joint. I would be willing to bet the Gorilla PVA formulation will do exactly the same thing. The Gorilla brand doesn't offer any practical advantage over Titebond that I can tell. Why change?

Last time I needed wood glue the Gorilla was much cheaper and got good reviews somewhere, so I went with it. As you say, it is the same as any other wood glue.
Cheaper is a practical advantage isn't it?

[Art Mann]

Cheaper is one advantage. I normally use Titebond III, even though it is a little more expensive, because it is the most waterproof, it has a longer working time than the others and will cure at a cooler temperature. I haven't looked into the Gorilla PVA glue properties yet.

[Rob Tolentino]

I have used the Gorilla Wood Glue on projects over the past two years. It works very well.

[dave hulett]

I built a dining table for our (covered) patio using ipe and glued with Titebond III about 7 years ago. Haven't had a joint loosen yet. We live in Arkansas so it's seen everything from 0 to 100 degrees.

[Art Moore]

I tried it and actually prefer it now to TB II. Seems like it goes on smoother and holds very well.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

From all I have researched on PVA glue family, it looks Titebond III and II are slight better than Gorila that is slight better than standard yellow glue, from the resistance POV for indoor applications. All of them, usually, are stronger than the wood they are joining when appropriately applied.

I use yellow PVA glue since "forever" for most of my indoor applications. No issue so far.

Obviously for outdoors or high humidity uses, the history is different...

[Rich Engelhardt]

I just used some of the Gorilla Wood glue.
Pretty much the same as TB & Elmer's indoor/outdoor stuff.