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Thread: Sawyers Bench Height

  1. #16
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    http://www.popularwoodworking.com/pr...ional_sawbench

    If you build this one, build it tall and then cut the legs off to a comfortable height. I still say knee high is the proper height. That's what my saw bench is and it is comfortable to use.
    As I stated before, I built the Pop Wood bench. It is comfortable to use. I am 6' tall. If you are 6'4", you might want to adjust the height.

  2. #17
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    The Tom Fidgen saw bench is unfamiliar to me. Does anyone have a picture of one they made?

    An online search shows many with a slot down the center for ripping.

    Here is how mine were made:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-Table-Project

    They do work well for me.

    The joinery should be about the same whether one is using straight legs or splayed legs.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    http://www.popularwoodworking.com/pr...ional_sawbench

    If you build this one, build it tall and then cut the legs off to a comfortable height. I still say knee high is the proper height. That's what my saw bench is and it is comfortable to use.
    Thanks Lowell! I will try this height and see what I think. My current one isn't quite as nice as the one in the Pop Wood link. Except my young daughter and I thought it should have a coat of paint on it. I now have the manliest saw bench around. I want to do something similar to yours for the next version.

    Quote Originally Posted by David Eisenhauer View Post
    Jeff - Stack some scrap on the floor next to the bench to stand on while sawing to try out a new height.
    Thanks David, I agree this is a great suggestion!

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    The Tom Fidgen saw bench is unfamiliar to me. Does anyone have a picture of one they made?

    An online search shows many with a slot down the center for ripping.

    Here is how mine were made:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-Table-Project

    They do work well for me.

    The joinery should be about the same whether one is using straight legs or splayed legs.

    jtk
    I have not made one yet, I have been thinking about it. It is well thought out, but it is still just a saw bench. One side has straight legs and the other are splayed. There is a gap in the middle for ripping. Like most things Tom does, he thinks his is the best.

    The pair I am using are like the ones Christopher Schwarz pushes. They have the notch for ripping, I see the benefit to the slot for ripping.

    http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/...ng-skills.html

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Sidener View Post
    I have not made one yet, I have been thinking about it. It is well thought out, but it is still just a saw bench. One side has straight legs and the other are splayed. There is a gap in the middle for ripping. Like most things Tom does, he thinks his is the best.

    The pair I am using are like the ones Christopher Schwarz pushes. They have the notch for ripping, I see the benefit to the slot for ripping.

    http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/...ng-skills.html
    For each woodworker there is a saw bench style to serve well for their shop and style of work.

    The slot down the center does appear to be a good approach. My thought process found features that didn't appeal to me. There is a need for a cross brace to support the two sides so sawing isn't continuous. If the work becomes skewed it could lead to cutting into the top of the saw bench. Finally, my saw benches also work as seats around my bench. A slot might not be as comfortable at times. Especially if there is something in my back pocket that could get pinched in the slot.

    There are many examples in the past of a regular saw horse with a ripping slit cut in the top. This also allows the installation of a batten to support large items, like a door, when painting.

    For my work, having a generous birds mouth or sawing notch at one end of a bench works fine for ripping.

    Designs with straight legs also appeals to me on some levels. It would work great for those who want to saw along the sides of their bench.

    One option that is greatly appreciated in my shop is to make the benches stackable to keep them from taking up too much space.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  6. #21
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    Didn't really over think mine...just an afternoon of puttering around..
    SDC15808.jpg
    Just dumpster dive stuff.
    SDC15797.jpg
    Yes, I have even used a plane on it. Had to plane leg stock for the workbench one day.
    Saw bench has been in use for a few years, now.
    SDC15860.jpg
    Even a few crosscuts....

  7. #22
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    Saw Bench 1.jpgSaw Bench 2.png

    I have been wanting to build on in this style - "Billy's Little Bench" I believe I have seen it called.
    David

  8. #23
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    Mine is very similar to the one David shows (different Billy). If I were to rebuild, I would put the lower stretchers inboard of the legs. I catch them from time to time when ripping. It's no big deal, just an annoyance. Still, it is something I would change.

  9. #24
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    Question Bill: Do you really use the center gap (in the "Billy" bench) for ripping or do you tend to rip off of one side? I have wanted to build that one, but got to thinking about perhaps it would be awkward to saw from more towards the center of my chest as opposed to off on my side as is more typical. Or, is your body positioned far enough back (while kneeling on the board) so that the saw ends up more towards your dominant side anyway?
    David

  10. #25
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    Hi,

    5 notes to help make a choice (from my brain dump this morning ).
    1- Remember that the length of hand saw can range from 24 - 26 - to 28 ". So you want to make sure that the height you'll come up with allow enough space so that the saw pushed all the way down in your movement does not hit the floor !
    2- In the same Idea, when ripping (and maybe cross cutting to lesser extent), you want to make sure the splay or rake (not sure of the word) allows space for the saw movement to not hit the legs.
    3- In the Tom Figden model, the end batten seems to fixed. I like more the idea of dog holes or like Jim said a split top so you can remove this fixture jig aid, and only pu it when needed. For example a few holes with removable dowels or sort of removable plane stop are enough to keep a board from moving in a cross cut.
    4- As said in previous posts make it sturdy, really.
    5- Make a pair of thenm with same height, with one longer than the other, so you stake them as it takes space in the shop. The smaller one should fit under the bigger one.

    Hope it helps.

    Regards.
    Last edited by Erwin Graween; 03-06-2017 at 5:06 AM.

  11. #26
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    Regarding making the top thick enough to use holdfasts... that made me remember this two-parts sawhorse: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/pr...orse-workbench

    Basically, two sawhorses that can be stacked. When not stacked have the height for sawing and when stacked have the height of workbench...

  12. I looked at "Billy's Little Bench" and adapted to my own (quite beefy) requirements. All stock is 6/4 syp, so it's quite stout. If the same were made of 4/4 stock, it would be easier to move about and strong enough for most shop work.

    IMG_3413A.jpg

    References from the Billy's Little Bench Blog:

    http://www.billyslittlebench.com/blo...t-top-sawbench

    http://www.billyslittlebench.com/blo...bench-sketchup

    http://www.billyslittlebench.com/blo...video-and-pics

    http://www.billyslittlebench.com/blo...ch-in-progress

    Enjoy.
    Fair winds and following seas,
    Jim Waldron

  13. #28
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    Basically, two sawhorses that can be stacked. When not stacked have the height for sawing and when stacked have the height of workbench...
    It looks like a good idea, but makes me wonder how much wobble there would be.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  14. #29
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    Mine doesn't wobble at all. Also makes a nice place to sit ON the board for rip cuts....
    SDC15807.jpg
    Sit with my back to the wider splay end
    SDC15800.jpg
    Run the rip saw until it hits the back of the notch, then you and the board can just scoot forward...
    I do use a knee on the board for crosscuts..
    SDC15860.jpg
    Using the non-notched end. I also clamp an old board to the top of the saw bench..
    SDC15817.jpg
    Add a couple planing stops. And joint away the saw marks on a few legs of the work bench I was also building..
    SDC15819.jpg
    Have also clamped a few slabs to this bench, and ran a circular saw for items a bit too big to haul into the shop.

  15. #30
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    Thanks for the idea Andrey. I like that. Stackable and useful for two different uses.
    David

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