Can't.., because I can't...,because I can't...

[Chuck Pickering]

I know there is a term that describes this problem. I can't make finger joints because I can't cut stock to fit the jig for setup and set over because I don't have a zero clearance insert...
I have a finger joint jig almost finished. Need to rip some stock for a pin to fit the finger slot I routed in the finger joint jig.
I have a partially completed ZCI, but a router bit pull out screwed it up. I want to fill the screw up, but with what? The ZCI is made from a scrap of laminate floor. I was routing a shallow groove to clear 10" blade to avoid using a 7 1/2 " blade to start the blade slot when the router bit pulled out and climbed up through the ZCI. The rest of the insert is functional and the mistake can be avoided by reversing the insert and cutting the blade slot on the other side.
My question now is, can I fill the slot made by the router bit and save the insert? What with? I have Durham' Water putty. Slot is 3/8" wide and about 6" long. Maybe glue a strip under the slot and fill with Durhams from the top and sand smooth?

Chuck

[glenn bradley]

I replenish ZCI's with epoxy now that I don't make my own. I used to make them a half dozen at a time since the setup is what takes the time; milling the blanks is nothing really.

Put clear packing tape on the side that you don't want epoxy running out of ...

ZCI repair (1).jpg

Re-cut the slot.

ZCI repair (4).jpg

I would think some epoxy drizzled into your oops could be a solution as well. Next time you setup to make one, make six. They are a wear part.

ZCI-shot (2).jpg

[Chuck Pickering]

Thanks, Glen. I will try the epoxy and tape.
I did make several blanks from what material I had. Only finished 2, because I needed them NOW(impatient old bugger, that's me)... I have a piece of formica I'm going to laminate to 1/4" mdf when I get some and make a bunch. My selection of router bits is small, so I'm trying to work with what I have until I get a feel for this stuff. I can see that a decent rabbeting bit with various size bearings would be usefull.

Chuck

[Jerry Miner]

You can also use auto-body filler (Bondo) for this kind of repair. It is easier to work with (and sand!) than epoxy IME.

[Chuck Pickering]

Thanks, Jerry, will pick up a can tomorrow.
Meanwhile, thanks again Glenn. I patched one of the 2 ZCI's I had made. One cracked and chipped out a bit just at the end of the saw kerf. Repaired that one with epoxy and am using it.
Got the 1/4" x 1/4" stock cut and finished the finger joint jig. Cut some /8" ply for my first box., a 5" x 5" x 2" box for my forstner bit collection, plus a couple test pieces. Learned a valuable lesson cutting the test pieces. USE GOOD PLYWOOD! The stuff I used blew out with the first cut. Now I have Baltic birch ply and bondo on the shopping list.
Not sure if it was me, the ply, or the bit... Me and the ply are both old, and the bit is from Lowe's...

Chuck
Anyway, thanks for the non-judgmental support. Enjoyed working in the garage with the doors open on a balmy 65° day in Feb.!

[Nick Decker]

Chuck,

I'm just over from you in Missouri, and did indeed enjoy the balmy Feb. day yesterday in my garage. Down right rejuvenating to have the door open!

[Chuck Pickering]

Hey, Nick!

Per the blow out above, would a dado stack cut ply better than a router? By better, I mean less blow out? I did have a backer board behind the jig.The blowout was on the front of both test pieces. Other than the blowout, the fit was perfect!

I think I'll move the finger joint jig to the table saw, if I can get the 1/4" with width one of the 2 sets I have.

Chuck

[Nick Decker]

Can't help with the dado stack question, I'm kinda new at this stuff myself.

[Lee Schierer]

Look for a two part epoxy called PC-7. It will mix up as a thick paste. Once it hardens it can be worked with files or chisels.