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Thread: Grizzly GO691 Motor Issues

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Perham, MN
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    127
    So I was able to check the capacitance of the capacitors. The 25mf capacitor read 23.3mf and the 200mf capacitor read 236mf. Looks like I'll be searching for a different solution. I'll have to check the centrifugal switches as others have suggested. I'll check some other connections as well.

    Kyle

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Perham, MN
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    127
    Update - I took the entire motor off the table saw, took it apart and cleaned and blew it all out. There was some dust in the motor, but not a lot. I also inspected the centrifugal switch and found the contacts looking black and crusty. I hit them with some emory cloth to clean them up. Put everything back together and BOOM, it works!!!

    Thanks to all who helped me out and gave suggestions!

    Kyle

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    Good deal.

    For people reading this thread in the future doing their own trouble shooting:

    1. Grizzly has a video re the centrifugal switch and how to troubleshoot/replace it... yep I am too lazy to look up the addie but it is on youtube

    2. if you are looking for motor capacitors locally take yours to the local HVAC supply house even relatively small towns will have them and they usually will have what you need, the counter workers are usually quite helpful UNLESS it is a busy time when the regular customers are piled into the place, try mid-morning or mid-afternoon.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
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    28,490
    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    Good deal.

    For people reading this thread in the future doing their own trouble shooting:

    1. Grizzly has a video re the centrifugal switch and how to troubleshoot/replace it...

    2. if you are looking for motor capacitors locally take yours to the local HVAC supply house even relatively small towns will have them and they usually will have what you need, the counter workers are usually quite helpful UNLESS it is a busy time when the regular customers are piled into the place, try mid-morning or mid-afternoon.
    Here you go: http://www.grizzly.com/videos/#?filt...fugal%20switch
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 02-16-2017 at 12:35 PM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  5. #35
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    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post

    Thanks Ken, you are far less lazy than I am...
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle Kaldor View Post
    Update - I took the entire motor off the table saw, took it apart and cleaned and blew it all out. There was some dust in the motor, but not a lot. I also inspected the centrifugal switch and found the contacts looking black and crusty. I hit them with some emory cloth to clean them up. Put everything back together and BOOM, it works!!!
    Great news! I also have a 2010 G0691 I purchased new and have been watching this thread. Mine is still going strong.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Grantham, New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,128
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    Normally, a bad cap will keep a motor from starting, it will not cause it to run slowly. And I'm afraid that CPeter is incorrect. There is no governor in the motor. Once a single phase motor starts to rotate it will generally come up to full speed, whether the starting circuit is disconnected or not.
    Mike
    Actually, CPeter was dead on! I work on motors and machines to buy, sell, and repair and have seen this problem many times. I had a Grizzly motor on a milling machine that the starting circuit would not open up until it got to over 1600 rpm on a 1725 rpm motor. What happened is exactly what we had here, the motor stayed locked in the start mode.
    CPeter

  8. #38
    Is there a difference in behavior when a centrifugal switch fails in a "cap start" vs a "cap start / cap run" motor?

    For instance, my impression is that Mike is correct for a "cap start" motor - if the centrifugal switch fails to open, the start cap and auxiliary winding stay energized, and since the start cap isn't rated for such a continuous current, it then usually overheats and fails. But the motor does come up to full speed, doesn't it?

    But in a "cap start / cap run" motor, the centrifugal switch needs to switch from using the start capacitor to the higher-impedance run capacitor. If it leaves the start capacitor connected, the slip can go higher, resulting in slower speed? Like how ceiling fans change speed by changing the value of the run capacitor?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Grantham, New Hampshire
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    As long as the cap start circuit is energized, the motor will not come up to full speed. Yes, the cap will probably overhead and go "bang". Motors with run caps will run without the run cap in place or open, but I don't think they will run with that cap shorted. I have seen cap run motors doing pretty good with the run cap not there, just two wires hanging out of the motor. Without the start cap, they just hum and with the start cap circuit locked in and not opening they will get up to a certain speed and make a lot of noise and not go into normal running state. There is a method to determine the correct size of the run cap by measuring the different amp readings in the field coils and balancing them. As for the start cap, its size is less critical with certain limits.
    CPeter

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