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Thread: Laguna Revo 18 36 220V unboxing

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Haubstadt (Evansville), Indiana
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    1,294
    I agree with John. Unless an electrician says different My belief is breaker is matched to protect the wiring.
    When working I had more money than time. In retirement I have more time than money. Love the time, miss the money.

  2. A 220v, 20 amp circuit, including proper sized wiring which is 12/2 [Romex,with a ground wire added inside the wire sheathing] should have a 20 amp double pole breaker to make the circuitry matched. Mismatching the breaker with smaller wire ,[14/2 for example] will allow the wiring to overheat, possibly causing a fire, in the event of a maximum load, but the proper size wiring will not overheat.

    I have both my lathes, which have nema 6-15 plugs on 20 amp circuits using 12/2 romex and a Nema 16-20 receptacle for plug in, which allows for the additional amperage in case of overload. A complete circuit that allows for 20 amps is not a problem for a lathe or any other machine that calls for a 15 amp circuit. If you max out the amperage on a 15 amp circuit, then you will get a trip at the breaker, which is a safety feature. If you use too large of a breaker for the wire, then it will allow overheating in the wire run. If you use too big a wire, say 12/2 with a 15 amp breaker, then if full load amps go through that wire, then the breaker will overheat, short out, and either could start a fire .....in the panel box, or in the wall where the wire is run, depending on which scenario is present.

    No competent electrician would ever put a 15 amp breaker on 20 amp wire, nor would they put a 20 amp breaker on 15 amp max. wire. Take heed and always match the recommended wire, breaker, and amperage for the circuit one is running........it will also save your lathe or other equipment from frying from mismatched components in a circuit, and possibly your house catching fire!
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Inver Grove Heights, MN
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    798
    I agree with Roger about matching ratings on all components of a circuit, but I am not sure I can agree with this part. "If you use too big a wire, say 12/2 with a 15 amp breaker, then if full load amps go through that wire, then the breaker will overheat, short out, and either could start a fire" In that situation there is no way to get "full load amps to go through that wire." The 15 amp breaker will operate first. My memory isn't all that good, but it seems to me that the allowable standard for breaker operation is 20% over the rating. Therefore the breaker should open between 15 and 18 amps.

    Again this is from memory and I haven't worked with house wire in many years. There is an allowance for the last 6 feet or so of cord to an appliance (tool). If you are running a long cord from that 20 amp outlet, you should update the outlet and the cord to 12 gage wire. If your cord is less than 6 feet I believe it is ok by the electrical code. Again this is from memory. Check the existing code for your location if there is any question about what you are doing.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
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    861
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Chandler View Post
    A 220v, 20 amp circuit, including proper sized wiring which is 12/2 [Romex,with a ground wire added inside the wire sheathing] should have a 20 amp double pole breaker to make the circuitry matched. Mismatching the breaker with smaller wire ,[14/2 for example] will allow the wiring to overheat, possibly causing a fire, in the event of a maximum load, but the proper size wiring will not overheat.

    I have both my lathes, which have nema 6-15 plugs on 20 amp circuits using 12/2 romex and a Nema 16-20 receptacle for plug in, which allows for the additional amperage in case of overload. A complete circuit that allows for 20 amps is not a problem for a lathe or any other machine that calls for a 15 amp circuit. If you max out the amperage on a 15 amp circuit, then you will get a trip at the breaker, which is a safety feature. If you use too large of a breaker for the wire, then it will allow overheating in the wire run. If you use too big a wire, say 12/2 with a 15 amp breaker, then if full load amps go through that wire, then the breaker will overheat, short out, and either could start a fire .....in the panel box, or in the wall where the wire is run, depending on which scenario is present.

    No competent electrician would ever put a 15 amp breaker on 20 amp wire, nor would they put a 20 amp breaker on 15 amp max. wire. Take heed and always match the recommended wire, breaker, and amperage for the circuit one is running........it will also save your lathe or other equipment from frying from mismatched components in a circuit, and possibly your house catching fire!
    I believe, according the the NEC, that it is perfectly fine to use wire rated for more current than the breaker it is attached to. So in this case, using 12 AWG on a 15 amp breaker is perfectly OK. As long as the wire can carry at least the current rated for the breaker , it is OK. As long as the breaker trips before the wire burns, it's OK. Wire size has no affect on how the breaker works. Bigger wire can carry more current than smaller wire (all other things the same). You can always go bigger on the wire as long as the parts are designed to accept larger wire. No one over sizes their wire (almost no one) due to cost, and the fact that bigger wire is harder to work with. And there may be some parts that aren't meant to be used with larger wire.

  5. Drawing more current amps through a wire than it is designed to carry will cause the wire to overheat. A couple weeks ago when we had that cold polar vortex for a few days, without thinking anything about it, I plugged in a small space heater on a 10 amp rated extension cord, one rated for outdoor use. Man, I caught it just before it was going to melt the insulation. That wire was too hot to touch! I should have checked the markings on that 25 ft. extension cord, but like most people, I just plugged it in!

    Just be careful was my main point. Sometimes we inadvertently do things without checking specs, etc. so if a circuit is set up correctly to begin with, the chances of something going wrong is greatly diminished. Proper size breaker and wire should always be combined, bottom line.

    I would agree that there is likely not a breaker issue with 12 AWG on a 15 amp breaker, but 14 AWG on a 20 amp breaker is a problem for sure! Code does call for proper sizing on both, at least from what I have read, so I encourage all who wire up things to adhere to code.
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
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    861
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Chandler View Post
    Drawing more current amps through a wire than it is designed to carry will cause the wire to overheat. A couple weeks ago when we had that cold polar vortex for a few days, without thinking anything about it, I plugged in a small space heater on a 10 amp rated extension cord, one rated for outdoor use. Man, I caught it just before it was going to melt the insulation. That wire was too hot to touch! I should have checked the markings on that 25 ft. extension cord, but like most people, I just plugged it in!

    Just be careful was my main point. Sometimes we inadvertently do things without checking specs, etc. so if a circuit is set up correctly to begin with, the chances of something going wrong is greatly diminished. Proper size breaker and wire should always be combined, bottom line.

    I would agree that there is likely not a breaker issue with 12 AWG on a 15 amp breaker, but 14 AWG on a 20 amp breaker is a problem for sure! Code does call for proper sizing on both, at least from what I have read, so I encourage all who wire up things to adhere to code.

    Yeah, you have to watch extension cords, especially on heaters and such. Today's extension cords are built to just barely meet the requirement. If you shop strictlly on wire gauge you quickly see that many are 16 AWG, some are 14 AWG, a few are 12 AWG, and 10 AWG is almost nonexistent. And if you find 10 AWG, be prepared for the sticker shock. I have a an extension cord I made for my generator. I think it's 8 AWG. That cable cost me a small fortune, without plugs/receptacles and weighs like 40 lbs (20 feet long). And remember to keep your cords as short as possible. Longer cords are more resistive and will cause problems faster than shorter ones. Also, current starving a motor by using a long cord can damage the machine.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Inver Grove Heights, MN
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    798
    While we are beating the dead electrical horse, I will add one more example of why you might use larger than required wire. The NEC recommends a maximum voltage drop of 3% over the length of your wire. 14 gage wire experiences a 3% drop in 50 feet. 12 gage has the 3% drop in 60 feet. So if you are going to run a 15 amp circuit more than 50 feet you would use 20 amp wire. This is something to look into if you extend the cord on your machine or use an extension cord. It is very important if you run to a shop that is many feet from your main panel. Take Roger's advise to follow code and be careful.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Russell Neyman View Post
    I have two friends who own this lathe and absolutely love using it when I get the chance. The ONLY nit picky comment I have is I tend to rub up against the speed control when working on the spindle side, which is annoying

    Great lathe. Good fit and finish.
    Ditto! Great lathe, but I also found myself changing speed when getting up-close and personal with the headstock... I simply swapped the knob with a nice smaller one on my Razortip burner... solved! Also, I did not care for the little rubber ball knob on the tailstock and replaced it with a shiny rotating handle as is common with metal-working lathes...

    And in agreement with Mr. Keeton -- IMHO, everyone should spring for the Revo bed extension with tailstock riser -- it just makes the machine look very macho and heavy (not to mention the bigger bowl and platter capacity)... What's more, I added the two Laguna OEM articulating spotlights just because they looked cool (after using them I could not do without). And if you are over 6 feet tall, don't forget the leg extensions...

    Outfit the Revo right and enjoy!! Just sayin'

    Ely

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by ELY WALTON View Post
    IMHO, everyone should spring for the Revo bed extension with tailstock riser -- it just makes the machine look very macho and heavy (not to mention the bigger bowl and platter capacity)... What's more, I added the two Laguna OEM articulating spotlights just because they looked cool (after using them I could not do without). And if you are over 6 feet tall, don't forget the leg extensions...
    Ely
    This is my current dilemma....the 1836 with bed extension and risers will total around $3050 (waiting for next 10% sale) whereas the 2436 standard totals around $3420 on sale and is heavier and with bigger motor. There haven't been many posts/reviews on the 2436. Does anyone have recommendations/experience with the 2436 alone vs 1836 with accessories?

    Thanks,
    Tom

  10. #25
    Thomas, I can’t compare the two as I haven’t turned on the 2436. But, at full retail there is $800 difference in the 2436 naked and the 1836 with the bed extension - a little less difference on sale. I guess it depends on what you intend to turn. If you aren’t interested in the 32” swing or the added potential for 20” more length, then the heavier lathe would make sense if money isn’t an issue. It would be better for coring and has a bit more height, along with quite a bit more mass.

    With my ballast box and drawer unit the 1836 is rock solid, and I like the lower height, the ability to turn large platters, etc., as well as not spending the extra $800.

    Left click my name for homepage link.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
    Posts
    861
    Your actually paying about $800 more for extra HP and weight while sacrificing length. If I had $3K to put on a lathe, it would've been the 1836 with extension. Without the extension, the swing is a bit limiting, especially over the rest. With the extension, it's pretty nice, though one needs more shop space for it compared to others. If I had near $4K, I'd probably go for the Powermatic. The 2436 takes up less space by giving up length (extension assumed on 1836). 24" swing is more the than adequate for most turners, but is it the best band for buck? Probably can't go wrong with any of them.
    Last edited by tom lucas; 02-20-2019 at 3:59 PM.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson80 View Post
    This is my current dilemma....the 1836 with bed extension and risers will total around $3050 (waiting for next 10% sale) whereas the 2436 standard totals around $3420 on sale and is heavier and with bigger motor. There haven't been many posts/reviews on the 2436. Does anyone have recommendations/experience with the 2436 alone vs 1836 with accessories?

    Thanks,
    Tom
    I have played around with the 18-36, not seriously, but long enough to change my mind from a Vicmarc 300 to a Laguna Revo unit. I never saw any 24-36 Laguna revo unit, until I unpacked mine from the tray back on my ute. I did ask around, but as far as I could ascertain there were none in the country, only the older Laguna 24-36 and I received a single reply from an Australian woodworking site from a member with that older lathe. I believe there are only 9, 24-36 units in Australia, mine is one of them; build date is 08-2018.

    Every available accessory for the 24-36, is labeled as being for the 18-36. I have every accessory made, except for the vacuum unit. In short, I bought a 24-36 with all the fruit.

    I'll do something on another thread, this is about someone with their 18-36.

    Mick.

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Mick Fagan View Post
    [...] from the tray back on my ute. [...] Mick.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hu8tX2BAD1k

    Just had to.... Ely

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    100
    Sorry, forgot you don't have utes in the USA, more a pick-up type of thing in your language. Usually with a tub on the rear, however in my case I have a tray, or as usually said in this country, a tray back on the rear.

    The day I picked up the Laguna, 21 of November 2018, very warm day.

    Here the drop sides are off, which allowed me to remove the plethora of boxes containing the accessories first.

    Mick.



    18_36_On_Ute_IMG_20181121_134844.jpg

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