Couple of Anchorseal Classic (original) questions

[Richard Dooling]

I have been using Anchorseal 2 and haven't been too impressed so I've ordered the original formula. BTW, U C Coatings delivers some sizes free to what they call the east coast zone.

1. Do you have to either clean or toss the applicator after use? With Anchorseal 2 I just kept using the same roller without cleaning.
2. Can it be sprayed with a small handheld garden sprayer?
3. Is it not advisable to spray given that there is no mechanical action pushing the material into the small crevices of the rough sawn wood?

Thanks,
Richard

[Doug Ladendorf]

I have a dedicated brush and pail. Just rinse the brush with water after using and put back in the pail for next time. Haven't tried spraying.

Doug

[Fred Belknap]

I have used both the #2 and original. Haven't seen much difference, I always loose a few blanks and rough outs. I pour it from the 5 gal container into a smaller plastic peanut jar. Just keep using the brush and wrap it in a plastic bag when not using. I cut my own trees and apply AnchorSeal to the bowl blanks and to the roughed out bowls. UC Coatings are good to work with. My UPS deliverer said it was the heaviest box I ever got.

[Izzy Camire]

I am not sure which of the Anchor Seals I have but it is about 10 years old so I would think the original.
As said above I apply it with a large brush that I wash with water and that works fine. At one point I tried a graden sprayer and that did not work for me as it clogged up very easily perhaps it was the wax.

[John Keeton]

I keep about 3" in a plastic coffee container and have had the same brush in that container for at least 4 years - never been rinsed out. It has stiffened just a little close to the ferrule, but is still very usable. The remainder of the Anchorseal stays in the gallon container.

[Michael Mason]

I just wipe the brush against the rim of the can, and lay it on top. It gets stiff, but dip it back in and work it back and forth on the log and it softens right back up. Never sprayed any of it.

[Bob Bouis]

Cut the bristles down to 2" and keep it in a regular plastic coffee can with about 2" of anchor seal. That way it never dries out, the handle stays clean, and the larger can gives you enough wax to go a while without refilling.

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

I've used both the original & the newer version#2. Our club bought a 55 gallon barrel of the newer version #2. I had very poor results (lots of cracking ) with it as well as several others in our club. So I went back to the original formula with very good results. We took a fresh cut hickory log and sealed one end with the original and the other end with the newer #2 formula. The end with the #2 had significant cracking the next day. The other end with the original showed no signs of cracking one month later. The company claims the both work equally but that has not been the case for me & a couple of other turners I know. I will not go back to the #2.
I always brush it on so I can't comment on spraying it.

[robert baccus]

I wash my hand every time I use it.

[Bill Blasic]

I have found that either formula works for me. Results have been the same using either, sometimes wood cracks no matter which is used.

[Roger Chandler]

I use the original anchorseal, and apply with a 4" paint brush. I always rinse my brush cause I just like to start out with a clean one the next time.

[John K Jordan]

1. Do you have to either clean or toss the applicator after use? With Anchorseal 2 I just kept using the same roller without cleaning.
2. Can it be sprayed with a small handheld garden sprayer?
3. Is it not advisable to spray given that there is no mechanical action pushing the material into the small crevices of the rough sawn wood?

Richard,

Check with the sawmill forums (or even call UC Coatings) about application - I always brushed it on even large logs for my little sawmill but I understand big operators often spray. (I bought a 55 gal drum of the original formula years ago, sold a bunch to fellow turners at cost, and still have about 5 gallons left.) I personally can't imagine the roller/brush vs spray would make any difference if the end was completely coated.

In many years of use I have not once cleaned a brush. Like others, I keep some in the bottom of a plastic coffee can with the brush inside a cheap disposable 3" brush. If it dries out simply flex the bristles on the side of the can. I replace the can when it starts to deteriorate. I've read discussions on other forums about cleaning Anchorseal brushes and for those who do, more power to them. Some also sweep their shop floor every single day but I personally see no need for either.

I haven't tried the Anchorseal 2 formula but a Google search will show some people dislike it. Of course, for every thing in life you can find someone who dislikes it.

JKJ

[Bob Bouis]

I used 5 gallons of anchorseal 2 and decided it stinks.

It is much thinner and dries more slowly. For lumber, slabs, turning blanks, etc., it's just terrible. Anchorseal 2 actually works better for most bowls, at least ones made from generally cooperative woods, in that it will dry faster with marginal loss of reliability. But if you want that you can just water down the original anchorseal and get the same effect. For figured wood or roughed bowls that weren't turned as well as they could have been, etc., you need a thicker seal like you'd get with the original.

[Richard Dooling]

Thanks everyone!

I've been using a 4" roller that I don't clean after using. Looks like I can continue being lazy.

UC Coatings show a backpack sprayer but I think they might have higher pressure and maybe more tip choices. Izzy mentions that there were clogging issues and I'm thinking that may be more of a problem with less frequent use.

So I think I'll just keep rolling along.

Richard