Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345
Results 61 to 70 of 70

Thread: Sander Suggestions

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Larry, I have a hose with an integral air line for my dynabrades and 3M sanders. Probably not as light as the Festool hose but the sanders are so light it doesn't matter. Dave

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1,592
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Also note to that, the ETS EC 125/3 can use the 150 pads, so you get the best of both worlds. However the ETS EC 150/3 or /5 can not use the 125 pads. So you are stuck with 6".

    I think you've got it backwards.

    The 150 EC sanders can be fitted with a 125mm pad, but not the other way around.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Sabo View Post
    I think you've got it backwards.

    The 150 EC sanders can be fitted with a 125mm pad, but not the other way around.
    Nope that is not correct. Check out this thread: LINK It will explain why.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1,592
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Nope that is not correct. Check out this thread: LINK It will explain why.
    Mea Culpa

    It is a thoroughly confusing issue as well as baffling why festool would go to such lengths to handcuff the sander.
    Actually it's not if you subscribe to the premise that they are just out to bilk their customers.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Bel Air, Maryland
    Posts
    535
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Hardy View Post
    500 bones is insane for a tool of its kind but you all make me want to go out and buy one. Insanely overpriced. I could see if it was $300. Geez the peer pressure.
    Had to chime in when I read this. I use a Mirka Ceros, and it was $550, and worth every single cent. On the topic of "expensive" tools, I'd like to offer a fresh perspective. A perspective I got from Sawmill Creek, but I can't remember the name of the wise person whom said it best. You know, we live in a Ryobi tool world these days. A throw away economy. If you look in Home Depot at sanders, you'll be hard pressed to find one over $150. That's by design, and it's because they know that most people figure a sander - sands wood. So, why buy a $500 sander when you can get one for $50? I can tell you why. Because as modern Americans, as Walmart shoppers, we've become accustomed to "cheap" prices. Problem is, in that transition, we've forgotten what "quality" really means, because there's basically no quality options available to us any more, and that's because of our purchasing decisions. In a way, we've taught the market how to treat us. The reason there aren't $500 sanders in Home Depot, is the reason I mentioned earlier - because no one would buy them!

    The fact is, we've become completely divorced from quality products, and by extension, what quality actually costs in dollars. The OP asked what a good RO was, and received an overwhelming response, almost all of which recommended an "expensive" tool. There's a reason for that, and it's the same reason I paid $500+ for my RO. That reason, is because that's what a quality tool actually costs, and I was crazy enough trust that, and I could never go back to a $100 sander now. As a wise man once told me, "the most expensive tool, is that which needs to be replaced at some point".

    And by the way, for what it's worth - a 6" pad has 30% more surface area than a 5" pad. I suck at math, but math really comes through on things like this.
    Last edited by Mike Dowell; 02-26-2017 at 7:42 PM. Reason: added math
    --

    Sometimes the best solution to morale problems is just to fire all of the unhappy people.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Tenn.
    Posts
    1,133
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton View Post
    I find Rolex to be to heavy, but it does keep good time.
    I wear an Omega that keeps good time too.
    Doc
    As Cort would say: Fools are the only folk on the earth who can absolutely count on getting what they deserve.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
    Posts
    9,447
    Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton
    I find Rolex to be to heavy, but it does keep good time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Hines, MD View Post
    I wear an Omega that keeps good time too.
    Doc
    That is oddly analogous to this thread. Possibly my greatest hobby passion is mechanical watches and for the vast majority of people a Rolex is the pinnacle of watch making, which honestly is far from the truth. Rolex and Omega are mid-level watches and the majority of both lines are tool watches. Much like sanders (tools) there are usually many more options out there than most of us are familiar with. Lange, Patek, AP and Vacheron for example make watches MUCH more expensive and built much better than a Rolex. My point is something out there is usually better and usually comes with a price premium but we all live within some budget and just like a $30K or $100K watch at some point the price tag becomes unfathomable to all of us and it may be just the price tag vs our budget and it may be we simply aren't that devoted to the particular hobby. A $500 or $600 ROS may make a pro money and it may make the task of sanding a little more pleasurable for a hobbyist so for some it makes perfect sense and for others it seems insane but every hobby has this same issue.


    BTW before someone chimes in I know mechnical watches are an anachronism and a $10 Walmart quartz watch keeps better time than even the finest mechanical movements.


    Edit: before anyone thinks I am poo pooing Rolex and Omega I am not, I love both brands and together they make up roughly 40% of my collection.
    Last edited by Van Huskey; 02-26-2017 at 9:18 PM.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton
    I find Rolex to be to heavy, but it does keep good time.
    I have a Rolex that was my grandfather's. It looks pretty, but is the worst time-keeping watch I've ever owned, even after repeated (and expensive) cleanings/servicing by the factory service center. So it gathers dust...

    That said, I still subscribe to and follow something I've said often..."The most expensive tools are the ones you have to replace early and often" and invest in quality. Much less expensive in the long run and better results.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    "The most expensive tools are the ones you have to replace early and often" and invest in quality. Much less expensive in the long run and better results.
    That is what my friend in Italy said, more or less, the best I could understand due to the language differences. He was commenting on the tools he has for his mobile carpentry/remodeling business while standing between two floor-to-ceiling racks full of systainers - "Festool, only Festool. Very good quality, economy!"

    JKJ

  10. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post

    That said, I still subscribe to and follow something I've said often..."The most expensive tools are the ones you have to replace early and often" and invest in quality. Much less expensive in the long run and better results.
    I do not disagree with your philosphy per se. The minor caveat would be that it's a personal decision. There a top to every bell curve and a personal point of diminishing returns where the "high quality" tool becomes disproportionate to your needs. My solution is to splurge when I can on the higher dollar, higher quality tools for those tools that I use frequently. For the infrequent jobs, I tend to feel the pedestrian, Chevy quality tools fill the bill quite well. However if another guy chooses to splurge on the very best designer tool in every category, its a personal decision, not my place to judge. Also, the mere definition of quality is an elusive one, means different things to different people. I say buy whatever tools make you happy and have a good time using them. Using a poor or substandard tool can be a real frustration.

    Some tools better quality tools hold their value so well that they can be looked at as essentially being free. I bought a Powermatic 54A long bed 6" jointer in maybe 2004 for $750 off Amazon.com, free shipping. Sold it last year for $750 off Craigslist. Ignoring an inflation argument, that tool basically cost me nothing, or at least very little and I enjoyed use of it for over a decade. Maybe it was a fluke. Really surprised me.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •