Finishing Makore Veneer

[Stew Hagerty]

I'm making a hall table for a charity event. I'm using Ash for the frame with a Pommele Makore veneered panel on top edged with Ash. I'm trying to decide how to finish it. I have on hand: Shellc, Waterlox Original, General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, Behlen Gel Finish, spray Lacquer, BLO, Tung Oil (real), and General Finishes High Performance (waterborne).

Some people have mentioned applying a dye or stain to the Makore to bring out the grain, but I have finished similarly figured Quilted Maple before using just Shellac or Arm-R-Seal and it comes out beautifully.

As for the Ash, it's versatile. I know I can do just about anything to it.

I'd really love some comments from anyone who has used Makore before. Thanks...

[Andy Giddings]

If you like the natural look of both woods and just want to accentuate the grain with a slight amber your method of using Shellac and/or Arm -R Seal are perfect for the job. Its what I use for figured woods - simple and effective

[Stew Hagerty]

I was thinking about possibly using some amber or even garnet shellac for the first coat. Assuming I use shellac of. Ourselves. That would give the Ash a hint of color with our really affecting the Makore all that much.

[Jim Becker]

Test your thoughts on scrap of the same material...and document the steps for each idea. Execute on the one you like the best.

[Marty Schlosser]

I second Jim's approach... plus if you're planning on using a waterborne finish, get yourself some Target Coatings EM2000, which is a waterborne alkyd finish that gives a lovely, oil-like warmth.

Test your thoughts on scrap of the same material...and document the steps for each idea. Execute on the one you like the best.

[Stew Hagerty]

Test your thoughts on scrap of the same material...and document the steps for each idea. Execute on the one you like the best.

I always do test pieces Jim, it's the only way to be sure.

My big question I guess is whether to use shellac or Arm-R-Seal or Waterlox. It comes down to if an oil/varnish blend works better with the Makore than Shellac does. I know that they both look good on Ash. I'll do the test pieces, but I was wondering if anyone has actually tried finishing Makore before.

[Andy Giddings]

Jim, as its a hall table I wouldn't have thought Shellac on its own would be tough enough?

[Jim Becker]

Jim, as its a hall table I wouldn't have thought Shellac on its own would be tough enough?

I think there are some small misconceptions about shellac and its durability. Shellac is a hard, hard finish and yes, it can get buggered by striking it. But it's also one of the easiest to repair finishes there is and is a lot more durable than many make it out to be. Varnishes including polyurethanes might resist abrasion and striking better due to their "softer" nature, but they are much harder to repair when they do fail. There's a whole lot of antique furniture with beautiful shellac finishes "out there"! The singular thing that keeps me from using it more as a top coat on many projects is that it's naturally a high gloss sheen and I'm not into working it out to be more satin. Shellac can also be affected by certain chemicals which also affects its suitability for certain types of projects as a top coat, but that's only because we have other choices today that didn't exist "back in the day". In the context of the OP, I think the question revolves more around what to do first to enhance the look...that first coat of whatever has an impact. And the best way to ascertain the effect on both the ash and the makore is to do test pieces.

[Andy Giddings]

Jim, I was thinking more of chemical and heat resistance when referring to Shellac's toughness

[Stew Hagerty]

Jim, I was thinking more of chemical and heat resistance when referring to Shellac's toughness

This is a Hall Table not a coffee table though. I wouldnt foresee much in the way of potential chemical (alcohol) or heat damage. Besides, as Jim said, what I'm talking about are first coat issues. Basically, how shellac or an oil/varnish blend would make the most of the beautiful grain.

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[Edwin Santos]

This is a Hall Table not a coffee table though. I wouldnt foresee much in the way of potential chemical (alcohol) or heat damage. Besides, as Jim said, what I'm talking about are first coat issues. Basically, how shellac or an oil/varnish blend would make the most of the beautiful grain.

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If you feel shellac is sufficient protection, I would think it will look very good. Noticing how much curl you have in the veneer however, you might find the oil/varnish blend or varnish might bring out the depth a little more. We're splitting shades of grey here. Like Jim suggested you may just have to experiment on samples and see what you like. Bottom line, none of the choices you've listed would be "wrong".
If I were to use Waterlox (which is excellent), I would thin it to the a similar viscosity to the Arm-R-Seal and wipe on thin coats.

There's also a subtle question of how much build you seek in your finish. In other words, there is a difference in the appearance and feel of a few thin coats of shellac finished with wax and a more built up varnish. I personally prefer the "in the wood" look to the built up film, but either way, this is something to consider also.

[Edwin Santos]

One more thing - there is a technique involving application of a dilute dye stain like a Transtint which is then sanded almost completely off. The dye will stay in the curl and basically pump up the contrast thus deepening the curl even more. Again, you sand it almost totally off so the field of your wood is not "stained" as such. When you then come in with your finish, the curl will be deeper. You already have amazing curl in this veneer but if you want to take it to ludicrous mode, this is one way to do so.

[Stew Hagerty]

One more thing - there is a technique involving application of a dilute dye stain like a Transtint which is then sanded almost completely off. The dye will stay in the curl and basically pump up the contrast thus deepening the curl even more. Again, you sand it almost totally off so the field of your wood is not "stained" as such. When you then come in with your finish, the curl will be deeper. You already have amazing curl in this veneer but if you want to take it to ludicrous mode, this is one way to do so.

Interesting idea Edwin. Do you use a matching dye or something just complimentary? The color of the veneer is very similar to Mahogany.

[Edwin Santos]

Interesting idea Edwin. Do you use a matching dye or something just complimentary? The color of the veneer is very similar to Mahogany.

Hi Stew,
Here is a link to a short article by Bob Flexner that further describes what I was talking about. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wo...urly-maple-pop

The focus here is on curly maple, but looking at your veneer, I think the same concept applies. I have done this on curly maple and used a very diluted brown stain. It worked very well. In effect what's going on is a darkening of just the curly areas which then "pop" more due to the enhanced contrast. The last dye coat is not sanded off. I think you'd want to stay with a dye that's in the same color family as the basic color of the wood. I recall an article in FWW by Jeff Jewitt that talked about this technique also which you might be able to find.

Here is another article that might be useful to you: http://www.woodworkerssource.com/blo...s-curly-maple/

What gorgeous veneer you've scored. Almost looks 3D. It's going to look great no matter what. I hope you post photos of the finished project.