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Thread: General High Performance Top Coat - Troubleshooting - Help Needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    SW Ontario
    Posts
    32

    General High Performance Top Coat - Troubleshooting - Help Needed

    Hey All - So I am applying the General HP over dewawed shellac and am getting mixed results. The work piece is a 9'x2' bench (Nakashima Conoid Bench), and I am applying with a painters pad, or possibly a deck stain pad purchased from Home Depot. I have been using the same pad, keeping it in a ziplock back and evacuating the air. Over the pad the I have a cheap nylon leg stocking - or footie - as recommend in the General finishing videos.
    I realize it is large area to tackle with anything other than a sprayer, but what I don't understand is why some parts of the bench are turning out better than others.
    My major problem initially was that the finish would dry with ridges in it, if looked as though the footie was being spread too tight, creating tighter sections that cut through the finish rather spreading it. Which really mucked it up.The ridges were quite noticeable to the touch. Not realizing what was leaving the ridges I thought I would try using more finish, to fill in the valleys, and it look though it was almost working. A really nice finish in areas where I thought that I had put to much on initially, (resisting the temptation to go back over it) which took quite a bit longer to dry, but in the end those areas that stayed wettest the longest turned out the best, almost perfect. But there would always be something on the surface which made me want to give it another , better coat. And so using even more, eventually what I got was a build up in the certain areas, the bench is a live edge that has a twist and so it is hard to have it perfectly level, which led to the excess all moving with the slope into one area. And so more ridges. The footie tightness is great lesson in getting a method down before heading to the finished product, which I avoided because I figured I would't be able to duplicate the scenario as I didn't have another massive finished slab lying around. But in retrospect I could have encounter that same problem on a 1x1.
    Long story short, I scraped off the build up, making it look pretty bad in the raking light. But fine otherwise. And so after all that, I realize the bench is not going to be perfect in the raking light, but I would at least like it to feel smooth - and so I am wondering how I can get rid of any little bumps/bubbles following the final coat.
    So the questions are
    If I sand it bumps/bubble it seems to take away the sheen and make that area stand out - can I use a wax after wards to buff everything out?
    Is there anything you can do to smooth out other than putting on a perfect last coat and leaving it?
    Can I refinish the problem areas again and leave the good areas? It is almost 20sq so I am running out of finish, and theres a good chance I will just muck up the good parts.
    Any advice to these questions or questions I haven't even thought of would be most appreciated.
    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    John, any product that is touch dry in 30 minutes is going to be difficult to apply by hand on an area the size you are working on. If possible beg or borrow a spray gun to finish coat it.

    Before you do that, you need to bite the bullet and sand the existing coating flat to get rid of the ridges, brush marks etc. These areas will need extra coats to replace the missing coating sanded off. You do these areas without putting extra on the good areas and this will catch them up to the good areas. Be prepared to buy some more product. Good luck. Cheers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Coppell, TX
    Posts
    908
    John, you could try some extender or even watering down the material. From your description it sounds like you can't maintain a wet edge and the finish isn't flowing out sufficiently. I've had this happen even on medium size parts with some WB finishes, and thinning the finish with water has worked. I've never used a pad, always used a 3 inch foam brush for larger parts. And you definitely want to avoid going back over the area that is drying as that's a sure way to get a rough finish. And Wayne is spot on about sanding the existing finish - don't try and patch.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    SW Ontario
    Posts
    32
    I assumed there wouldn't be any easier answers - Thanks Anyhow!

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