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Thread: Laser Etch and Paint-fill Glass Plaque

  1. #1
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    Laser Etch and Paint-fill Glass Plaque

    I don't come here with questions very often... any more. However, I'm drawing a blank on this project. Customer wants a plaque like attached here, but I'm not sure how to color fill to appear grayscale? Easy if I just inverse engrave and put a black backing, or attach a real photo behind, but that's not what they want.

    My thought is a halftone image like we use to do for the newspaper. Instead of the dithering, use standard. Any other ideas, thoughts?

    Memorial Plaque 2.jpg
    Last edited by Tim Bateson; 02-01-2017 at 6:51 PM.
    Tim
    There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
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  2. #2
    Seems like laser is wrong tool then, not an engraving job but rather a printing job... You have the Ricoh, and you can get coated glass or use GreenStar vinyl (you sublimate to its adhesive side and then bond it to the back of an untreated glass plate).

  3. #3
    Tim
    Paint the photo area black. Engrave and scrape off excess paint. Obviously, you paint the second surface. Engrave the text and color fill it.

    There have been some examples posted in years past but I don't remember enough to do a search.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...look-great-but!!!
    Last edited by Mike Null; 02-02-2017 at 6:32 AM.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  4. #4
    I'm with Mike. I did something similar on a white canvas. I painted it black and engraved the picture. It came out surprisingly well.
    355 - 10400 : )

  5. #5
    That may have been printed with one of those new fangled printers that are too expensive for me to consider.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Glen Monaghan View Post
    Seems like laser is wrong tool then, not an engraving job but rather a printing job... You have the Ricoh, and you can get coated glass or use GreenStar vinyl (you sublimate to its adhesive side and then bond it to the back of an untreated glass plate).
    This, except I'd just go ahead and direct print right on the glass. It's considered the industry standard at this point. Other option is just transparent vinyl "decal". Cut it the size of the entire panel so there are no seams. Another "industry standard".
    Last edited by Ross Moshinsky; 02-02-2017 at 10:07 AM.
    Equipment: IS400, IS6000, VLS 6.60, LS100, HP4550, Ricoh GX e3300n, Hotronix STX20
    Software: Adobe Suite & Gravostyle 5
    Business: Trophy, Awards and Engraving

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ross Moshinsky View Post
    This, except I'd just go ahead and direct print right on the glass. It's considered the industry standard at this point...".
    Great, I'll tell the customer to wait until I can afford a large format Direct printer. I think Mike has had the best idea. Will test that tonight.
    Tim
    There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
    50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
    Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
    Epilog Mini 24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
    Ricoh SG3110DN
    - Liberty Laser LLC

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Bateson View Post
    Great, I'll tell the customer to wait until I can afford a large format Direct printer. I think Mike has had the best idea. Will test that tonight.
    Or you could simply call someone up that has one and sub the job out. It's not my fault this process isn't designed for engraving. Even 20 years ago this would have been done through a print type process.
    Equipment: IS400, IS6000, VLS 6.60, LS100, HP4550, Ricoh GX e3300n, Hotronix STX20
    Software: Adobe Suite & Gravostyle 5
    Business: Trophy, Awards and Engraving

  9. #9
    That would probably be my solution as I have a nearby competitor who has a uv printer and will do my work. It's just a short margin.

    I should add that I find it quite easy to turn away work involving photos.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Null View Post
    That would probably be my solution as I have a nearby competitor who has a uv printer and will do my work.
    Anyone in the Cincinnati area pm me.
    Tim
    There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
    50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
    Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
    Epilog Mini 24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
    Ricoh SG3110DN
    - Liberty Laser LLC

  11. #11
    I agree with Glen and Ross. That's a 4-5 minute print job directly on the back of the glass with a UV printer. We've been printing a job for about 3 weeks straight now that is back printing on acrylic. It works very well. For glass, you might want to make sure they use adhesion promoter or use a machine with primer in one channel to make sure it sticks on the glass.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
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    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  12. #12
    What about sublimation?
    355 - 10400 : )

  13. #13
    Or you could just try the GreenStar I mentioned, sublimate and apply to the reverse side of the glass. What's the issue with that?

  14. #14
    If it were me and I wasn't about to lets someone print it on (ahem ) --

    I would mask the glass with transfer tape, get it on and down real smooth. Then create a 2-color bitmap, dithered or 'actual' halftone (which I don't care for myself, I like 'Stucki')...
    Run at 300 x 300 dpi, and plan on making 2 or 3 passes. You want the transfer tape to burn as cleanly away as possible but keep the tiny pieces where they belong...

    Then spray paint it with some flat black. Flat will look glossy on the other side anyway, and dries MUCH faster than gloss enamel...

    After it's dried a couple of hours, soak the piece in warm soapy water for 15 minutes or so. the transfer tape should pretty much just fall off. What doesn't fall off, take some 0000 steel wool to it.

    Observe the results-- any too-dark areas, hit with the steel wool. If needed, use the steel wool to 'fix' the shading.

    If it turns out okay, run the job!
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
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  15. #15
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    The piece is 24 x 18 - 1/2 inch tempered glass.
    Tim
    There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
    50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
    Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
    Epilog Mini 24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
    Ricoh SG3110DN
    - Liberty Laser LLC

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