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Thread: Problem with Epilog Helix laser table when auto focusing

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630

    Auto Focus is fine - but

    Pete,

    For the reason you mention I always have the vector grid in, it's a lot softer if there's a jam than the table itself. Also, it's not too bad to replace, mine was worn on the left side from a lot of vector cutting so that nothing thin like Rowmark 1/16 would lie flat, only $40 for a new honeycomb and got it the next day. Of course those new ones with the vaccum table don't have a vector grid.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
    Posts
    103

    I agree

    Pete you are right in that you have to be handy and be prepared to fix whatever comes up. Living on an Island as far North as Newfoundland is we are used to having to do things ourselves until things or people arrive. However last night when after two nights of working with technical support and still not finding a fix I can honestly say that I was "sweating bullets". All I could think was I just paid $20K+ for this thing 2 weeks ago and now what am I going to do if it has major problems with the frame or something and has to be shipped back. Luckily we worked it out and things now seem fine again - but it was tense for a while. My thanks again to Koy, the technical support person at Epilog who worked with me on this.

    Pat
    Pat
    JOMA Engraving, Epilog Helix 35 Watt, Corel X3

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    20
    Pat, I know your post was five years ago, but I have had this problem since I received my Mini 40. The screw adjustments do not work for me as the left side of the table is almost 1" lower than the right. I had a guy from Engravers Express come out and he had to take apart something. Can you tell me how I can loosen the belt as you described. Epilog tells me the only instructions they have for this issue is the adjustments screws. Thanks for your help if you can.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Moreton, Wirral, UK
    Posts
    3,287
    I had a problem in the beginning with my Helix bed being higher on one side but it was only a matter of three or four millimetres so it was only a couple of rotations on the right screw thread, but it used to cause me a few headaches trapping the machine at the top when using the auto-plunger on thin material. Currently I don't have it on because I needed the freedom to move the head over raised sides, but I do prefer it to be fitted. Why on earth anyone would recommend you use WD40 on such an expensive piece of machinery is rather silly, it frees up a lot of rusty stuff but it also congeals, I used to fix clocks as a hobby and quite often that was what had caused the problems. Whilst we are on the matter of WD40, did you know that the stuff is made using mainly fish oils? Also, this is a really good one to remember, if you ever get chewing gum on your shoes, carpets or clothing, spray it with WD40 and it will melt the chewing gum. Most amazing thing I've ever seen and I actually used it to remove a huge dollop of the stuff from a young girls hair fortunately before her mother decided she was going to go ahead and cut it out!
    Epilog 45w Helix X3/X5 Corel Microflame Generator (flame polisher) Heat Bender


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,395
    Frank, you never cease to amaze me with your knowledge of a vast range of subjects. I will make a note about gum removal from hair in case I have that arise in the future. Thanks for the tip!
    Epilog Legend EXT36-40watt, Corel X4, Canon iPF8000 44" printer,Photoshop CS6, Ioline plotter, Hotronix Swinger Heat Press, Ricoh GX e3300 Sublimation

  6. #6

    Good Advice

    Frank, you and I are on the same page...
    I was a clockmaker for 35 years until an injury forced me to retire. Now I play with lasers and get paid to have fun! Can't tell you how many times I got clocks that had been sprayed with WD-40 once, or repeatedly over the years.

    WD-40 was invented for the space program to displace water... W-ater D-isplacement, and the 40th try was the right formula. It was never intended to be a lubricant, and to use it as one is almost criminal on expensive machinery, or clocks. It congeals, attracts dust and junk, dissolves the lacquer on brass into a gummy mess, and promotes wear. It was a major pain to clean it out of a clock, and usually had caused a ton of wear to bushings as well as steel shafts and pivots.

    But it's great for dissolving price tag glue and other sticky stuff, and I even used it as a cutting oil when machining with my mini lathe.
    If anyone else reads this thread- DON'T USE WD-40 AS A LUBRICANT! That's what oil is for!
    "It always looks darkest just before it goes completely black."

    Epilog Helix 50 Watt, Corel X6, Illustrator, Photoshop, Sherline Lathe, Wacom Bamboo tablet and plenty of chocolate.

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