The saga of the Money Pit...err - shop (pix)

[Jim Laumann]

It's been a long time in coming...in 2003, we took down the old barn (40x44') and had a 40x60x12' pole frame building put up (hired out the construction of the building).

Had water brought in (frost proof hydrant), a gray water "septic" system for a floor drain and scrub sink - drain field only - no septic tanks.
Put concrete in half of it (40x30). We brought power in, and the money
was gone. Total to this point was about $34,000. We used it as a storage building and "rough it" shop. Has a 11x12 o/h door, a 12x15 sliding door, 2 service doors and 6 windows.

I had promised SWMBO a new kitchen, so no more work on the shed. Fast forward to 2009 - SWMBO got her kitchen - new appliances, cabinets, flooring, garden window, window treatments - complete re-wiring (no more blown breakers), and she got both bathrooms redone as a bonus - for the paltry sum of $34,000. Funny how the numbers match....

So in 2010, attention got turned back to the pole shed.....the shop has to be a multi-purpose shop - not pure wood working. I have to be able to get my tractor and other lawn and garden equipment in for work, not to mention the the vehicles, boat, etc...

I started working on it in late June. The first thing to do was move out 7 years worth of "put it in the shed" out of the way - including all the stuff we kept from the kitchen project - the old cabinets, etc.

That alone took a 2-3 days - hauled a bunch away, gave a bunch of stuff to Habitat for Humanity, and there was still stuff on the floor that would just have to be moved as we went along - the snowmobiles, welder,
torch,chop saw, etc.

I started the actual work by installing 1.5" high denisty foam board in the post cavities next to the steel sheathing. My building, as designed had posts made from offset & laminated 2x lumber - so instead of 6" thick
posts, mine are 7.5", thus allowing extra insulaton. See Pics 1-4. After the HD foam was installed, I went over every crack and seam, filling them with DAP spray foam (low expansion) - attempting to fill all seams
where air could infiltrate. You can see some filled seams in pic 4 (white).

Jim

[Jim Laumann]

I then started adding 2x4s in to the cavities formed by the trusses in the ceiling. The builders had installed 2x4's every 10' to tie the trusses together, I added 2x4's at 5', and then later went back and cut that distance down to 30" - and am glad I did (more on that later).

In Pic 5-6-7, you can see the 2x4's in the ceiling, the new lumber is white, while the original framing is orange. Once the ceiling was done, we (laid off son and I) turned our attention to the walls - both the exterior walls, and a partition wall.

The partition wall was built "pole frame' style - using "light duty posts" - that is - they were made using a double 2x6, vs the 3x lamination used on the exterior walls - as the storage wall is not load bearing. We framed a opening for a future 10x10 o/h door, and a service door to the "storage" side of the building.

When the building was put up, both exterior service doors ended up being on the "shop" side, so we had to add wall framing to allow the 2nd service door access the storage bay. Pic 8.

Jim

[Jim Laumann]

I spent a Sunday working on the drain/vent piping for the sink - pics 9 & 10. For heat, I have a wood burner - pic 11 shows some of the framing in the ceiling and the stove pipe components.

When all of this was done, I had my builder bring his crew back - they installed the ceiling and partition wall sheathing in 1 day (4 guys). Pics 12-14.

Installing fiberglass came next - pics 15-16. I used 6.25" R-19, When combined with the HD foam (R7.5), I have a R value of 26-27 in the walls.

Pic 16 shows a bit of the framing for the 10x10 o/h door. Since I didn't have money to purchase it, I closed the opening in w/ 2x's, insulated and sheathed it.

[Jim Laumann]

My agreement w/ my builder was that they would work on my building when it was wet and rainy (when they couldn't work outside on other projects). I came home one sunny day in early Oct to find the guys working on my wall sheathing. Pics 17-18. That was a pleasant surprise.

My windows had taken a beating from the bugs over the years - would they ever come clean? Pics 19-20. It took lots of elbow grease, paper towels, Formula 409 and Windex, but they did come clean, as shown in pic 21.

Pic 22 shows some grinding I did on the concrete of the door opening. The door hasn't closed tight since the day the floor was poured due to small bumps and a angle introduced during the pour. I used a DeWalt 4774 head on my angle grinder - it took the high spots down, and with the addition of a new seal, my door closes tight w/ no air gaps.

Finally, pic 23 shows an exterior view of the building. This is shot looking from the SE to the NW. You can see the chimney for the wood burner on the roof.

As of this writing, the wiring is going back in. Every thing I had installed a/o 2003 (Romex) had to be be removed, as a requirement of state electrical code (can't have Romex enclosed in insulated walls of exterior buildings). All of the wiring we put in will be in 1/2" EMT.

Remember those extra 2x4's in the ceiling? Now that we are working on the electrical - I've to go back and put in extra blocking in the ceiling, and those 2x4's are providing a place to work from for doing that. They are also giving me lots of options for future ceiling goodies like lines for compressed air, power drops, duct work for a dust collector, etc.

The ceiling work for the lights was completed on Thursday (11-11), so I can now get the ceiling insulated (14-16" of blown glass). Once that is done (next week?), the stove and chimney can be hooked up and I will have heat!! - as the first snow arrived yesterday.

Jim

[glenn bradley]

Wow, what a job and what a space. That is going to be great.

[eugene thomas]

well now that shops done the money pit part 2, filling it with tools.

[Jim Laumann]

Eugene

Tools - ha! - not going to be able to afford any for a while.....

Table saw, jointer and bench top stuff in the basement will move out there, mechanic's tools in the garage will move. I picked up a used lathe last summer, that is in the shop now, but needs a stand before I can use it.

I am figuring the entire winter will be consumed w/ "moving in".

Jim

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Beautiful shop Jim. I am sure you will be delighted with it. Enjoy!

[Logan William]

Looks great! Makes me wish I could start on turning my pole barn into my shop immediately, need to make more progress on the house though before I do that though.

What state are you in that didn't allow Romex in insulated exterior walls?

[Jim Laumann]

Logon

I am in Minnesota. For reasons I can comprehend - Romex in my residence is ok (heated and insulated), romex in my unheated attic is ok. Romex is also ok in the storage side (no heat/insulation) of my pole shed and other out buildings.

But what I don't comprehend is that its a no-no in the heated "shop". Something to do w/ rodents - although how that is differant from my attic I don't know. I was incredulous w/ my builder when he first told me - but I've confirmed it w/ the electrical inspector.

Jim

[Jim O'Dell]

Yeah, that is a strange requirement. And I agree with the others, very nice shop! Hopefully you can get the tools out there before the snow gets too deep. That way, when you get the wiring and EMT done, you will have them there to fire up and play with! Jim.

[Jim Fitz-Gerald]

This is great to hear and see, I have just started a journey of a similar type. Great pictures. The finished interior looks great. Well thought out.

Fitz

[Steve Goetz]

Jim, First off, Very nice workshop. How do you like the metal siding for the ceiling of your workshop? I'm in the process of beginning to insulate and sheet the inside of my 24x30 pole barn and was thinking of using metal.

Steve

[Jim Laumann]

Steve

I went w/ the metal for the ceiling and walls for the fact it was bright, prefinshed (no taping or painting), and highly reflective - it's a big area (30x40x12), and I didn't want dark spots.

Right after the ceiling went in, the 2 300w lamps I had as temp lights lit it up well (see pics 12-14), so once the flor. lights are installed, it should be very bright. Several of the "build your shop" books I have all made mention of the fact that as we age, we need more light, and I'm not getting any younger.

I hired out the installation of the steel - cost was $6600 for the materials and labor. I suppose we (son and I) could have put the stuff up, but it was a matter of how long would we have been at it - and the fit and finish.

The down side of using the steel on the walls was the horizantal framing - it is going to make hanging cabinets and shelving more difficult. There is also the loss (had I used plywood or OSB) of being able to put a nail or screw in any where I want something. There is something about those white panels that makes me cringe every time I punch a hole in them - even when its needed - ie electrical boxes, etc.

I've not seen alot of shops out side my immediate area - other than pictures in books. There are 4-5 shops in my area where steel has been used through out - one a commerical cabinet maker, the others are farm shops - they have made them work - I will as well.

Jim

[Scott T Smith]

Jim, that's a great looking shop! I seriously considered using metal panels on the inside of mine (have seen other buildings done that way and found them to be very practical), but ended up going with wood and sheetrock instead with metal on the roof.

Thanks for sharing your photo's.

Scott