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Thread: SawStop PCS Bevel Issue

  1. #16
    Yea, the first thing I did was to check the blade alignment to the miter slot and the fence to the miter slot. I managed to get the blade alignment to less than .001"

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    One final thought, is the blade parallel to the fence front to back? More accurately, are the fence AND the blade both parallel to the slots in the top?

  2. I've managed to trip the silly thing twice by hitting it with my miter gauge and I use a thin kerf blade. It has worked fine with no discernable nick on the miter gauge. The blade isn't any good though...

    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    On a side note, SawStop recommends not using any thin kerf blades. Believe its stated in the manual too. They're concern is that should one ever hit the brake it might not stop quick enough to save the flesh or it might bend/break due to the force from the stop.

  3. Which part of the blade are you referencing off of with the gauge? Tooth or Top center right below the gullet?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bao Loi View Post
    Yea, the first thing I did was to check the blade alignment to the miter slot and the fence to the miter slot. I managed to get the blade alignment to less than .001"

  4. #19
    I'm using the center between gullets on a 24t ripping blade. There are many methods on how to align the blade, but the one I followed after not getting any success with the SawStop manual was to mark one area 1/4" away from the edge of the blade and get all the measurements from the front to back with that spot. So I zeroed the measurement out at the front, rotated the blade to the back and took my measurements for making any blade adjustments. I hope that makes sense...

    Quote Originally Posted by Timothy Williams View Post
    Which part of the blade are you referencing off of with the gauge? Tooth or Top center right below the gullet?

  5. #20
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    The main thing I'm wondering about is if the face (the surface against the table) of the board is jointed flat. if there is any twist at all on the face it will mess up your rips.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bao Loi View Post
    Yes, the edge against the fence is jointed by using a jointing jig since I don't have a jointer. I can flip it end for end and there isn't a a rock or a gap between the fence and the work piece. And the fence is 90 to the work top using an engineer square. Maybe you're having better luck than I am with SawStop. I haven't received a response yet....

  6. #21
    What have you done to your stock before ripping it? Are these stock flat, even thickness and straight before you take it to the saw? Any twist, cup and bow is likely to leave an undesirable quality of the cut. Secondly... oftentimes when cutting wood, especially when ripping, you relieve the stresses within the wood and it would have the tendency to bow and twist. Finally.....you mentioned resaw. If you are resawing wood, cupping is very common.

  7. Should have clarified my question better! I was referring to your measurement of 90 degrees from the table bed.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bao Loi View Post
    I'm using the center between gullets on a 24t ripping blade. There are many methods on how to align the blade, but the one I followed after not getting any success with the SawStop manual was to mark one area 1/4" away from the edge of the blade and get all the measurements from the front to back with that spot. So I zeroed the measurement out at the front, rotated the blade to the back and took my measurements for making any blade adjustments. I hope that makes sense...

  8. #23
    Oh,hahah....I measured in between the tooth rather than on the tooth itself.


    Quote Originally Posted by Timothy Williams View Post
    Should have clarified my question better! I was referring to your measurement of 90 degrees from the table bed.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timothy Williams View Post
    I've managed to trip the silly thing twice by hitting it with my miter gauge and I use a thin kerf blade. It has worked fine with no discernable nick on the miter gauge. The blade isn't any good though...
    Hey I was just statin' the facts. SawStop says don't use them. You are welcome to roll however you like
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  10. #25
    Because I don't have a jointer, I made a jointing jig out of 3/4" plywood and the jig is flat. This way I can send the piece with some shims under to flatten one side of the board. I've taken all the variables out from the wood to avoid inaccuracies. It boils down to either I'm missing something in properly setting up the machine or it could be technique that is lacking. I'm taking all precautions to keep the board tight on the fence when feeding so I have no idea what's going on.

    Thinking of investing in a Gripper if it helps...

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Orbine View Post
    What have you done to your stock before ripping it? Are these stock flat, even thickness and straight before you take it to the saw? Any twist, cup and bow is likely to leave an undesirable quality of the cut. Secondly... oftentimes when cutting wood, especially when ripping, you relieve the stresses within the wood and it would have the tendency to bow and twist. Finally.....you mentioned resaw. If you are resawing wood, cupping is very common.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bao Loi View Post
    Because I don't have a jointer, I made a jointing jig out of 3/4" plywood and the jig is flat. This way I can send the piece with some shims under to flatten one side of the board. I've taken all the variables out from the wood to avoid inaccuracies. It boils down to either I'm missing something in properly setting up the machine or it could be technique that is lacking. I'm taking all precautions to keep the board tight on the fence when feeding so I have no idea what's going on.

    Thinking of investing in a Gripper if it helps...
    Even if it doesnt help with this problem, GRR-Rippers are certainly helpful in others!
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  12. #27
    I have a planer and I use a jig with shims to make the board flat. I've been having great success with it to flatten one side and then send the other side on the planer bed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    The main thing I'm wondering about is if the face (the surface against the table) of the board is jointed flat. if there is any twist at all on the face it will mess up your rips.

  13. #28
    yea....i might have to give it a try to make sure it's not how I'm feeding that makes the work piece a little off. I'm pretty confident that it's not the way I'm feeding it since the bevel is off the whole length of the rip.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Even if it doesnt help with this problem, GRR-Rippers are certainly helpful in others!

  14. #29
    Silly question but is your square accurate?

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Hey I was just statin' the facts. SawStop says don't use them. You are welcome to roll however you like
    (Somehow the quote function left out that this is referring to use of thin kerf blades on a Sawstop.

    Sawstop does recommend that you not use super thin kerf blades. But a normal 10" thin kerf blade is 3/32", and the manual says:

    "Blades with kerfs much thinner than 3/32 inch should not be used because those blades might not be strong enough to withstand the force applied by the brake when it activates."

    (My italics added.) Ordinary thin kerf blades are fine on a Sawstop.

    With regard to the OP's problem, could it be you are so careful to keep the stock against the fence you are pushing hard enough to deflect the fence? Pushing too fast for the cut might also cause blade deflection. Try cutting a bit more slowly, while focusing on moving the stock steadily along the fence without pushing too hard against it.

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