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Thread: Table in in alinement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Sun City West AZ
    Posts
    132

    Table in in alinement

    Running a 2.5 year old Epilog zing 50 watt. Burning wood (oak) trophy bases. After about the 8th one, I notice I'm getting a lighter burn the further left I go.Cleaned lens. Checked table and not level from left to right or front to back. Not sure what I have done to move the table around but its not level. How to I level the burn table, plate? Took out the honey comb already.
    Thanks in advance....
    Last edited by gary l roberts; 01-14-2017 at 4:56 PM.
    GARY ROBERTS
    ShopBot Desk Top
    Full Spectrum 60 Watt Pro

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,664
    Blog Entries
    1
    Hi Gary...

    I dont have a Zing so I am not sure what is under the honeycomb. On my Chinese laser I have a set of aluminum slats often called knife edge slats. They run from the back to the front of the laser and each sits in a slot with a hex screw under each end so you can adjust the height of each slat at the front and the back. When I do my table, I move the laser over the back left slat and focus on it using my focus gauge. From then on I do not focus the laser. I simply move it so it is over the next slot and I use my focus gauge and the hex screw to get that slat aligned. And then the next, and the next, and when the back is done I move to the front and continue. Never actually focusing the laser but instead using the guage and the hex screw to set the slats height. When I am done I repeat this to be sure I had it right. Finally, I will put a dab of locktite or nail polish on the hex screw threads where it enters the table frame to lock those in place. Easily changed, but prevents changes due to vibration over time. Lastly, I put the honeycomb back in and then check that using the same technique. Start by focusing the laser using the guage on the back left surface of the honecomb, then check each corner without focusing the laser, just using the guage to make sure each corner and the center are correct. If not, I may need to go back and recheck my slats, or use a little chm under the honeycomb. The idea at that point being that it is has a subtle bow to it affecting how it sits on the slats.

    This takes a bit of time but is not difficult. I do recheck this every several months just to be sure all is OK. Subtle changes over time may go unnoticed until you realllllly start to get frustrated because the laser is not working consistently.

    Hope that helps a little.

    Here is a photo of that knife edge slat arrangement in case my description was confusing you.
    honeycomb.jpg
    Last edited by David Somers; 01-14-2017 at 9:02 PM.
    900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.

  3. #3
    Not sure if you have a motorized moving table, and if so, how it's driven- but all 3 of my lasers with moving tables have 4 lead screws. The 4 screws will be turned in unison by a common long belt and a stepper motor. The easiest way to adjust the 4 corners is to remove the long belt, there should be a belt tensioner, loosen it up and the belt should just about fall off. With the belt off you can adjust each lead screw manually to level the table. Once level, re-install the belt and tighten it.

    if you DON'T have lead screws, hopefully someone else can help!
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Washington state
    Posts
    233
    Can you just use a deck of cards as shims and place them under the low corner of the machine?
    just kidding.
    Remember, the goal is to ensure that you have the same distance from the final lense to the table in all locations throughout the deck. You should be able to shim your deck or if there are adjustable screws, make corrections on them.
    Scott
    Rabbit Laser RL-60-1290, Rotary attachment, Corel Draw x6, Bobcad Ver 27
    Juki-LU 2810-7, Juki 1900 AHS, Juki LU-1508, Juki LH-3188-7, Juki LH 1182
    Sheffield 530 HC webbing cutter

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