Removing Cermark

[Daniel Eaton]

I have heard that there is a way to remove Cermark from stainless steel. I have some product that the etching didn't come out right and I'd like to salvage what I can from it. Anyone got the secret on just how to do this? Can it be etched off with the laser or somehow removed chemically?

[Gary Hair]

Removing Cermark is no easy task and unless it's a very expensive piece it probably won't be worth the time. I marked some Rtic tumblers with customer approved artwork that turned out to be wrong. I chucked one up in my lathe and used 60 grit sandpaper and a coarse scotchbrite pad and it took a long time to get the mark to completely disappear. You not only have to remove the surface level Cermark, but you have to remove the discolored metal underneath. A local shop used a unitized wheel and it worked really well but still took 10-15 minutes to remove the mark and blend the finish - not worth it for a $10 item...

[Kev Williams]

Before I start a lot of typing at midnight-30

--what are you looking to fix? Don't need exact, but-

--flat plate?
--rounded object like a Yeti?
--oddball object like pliers?

[Mike Null]

Gary is right--it's not usually worth the time. I've done a few Yeti's and found I can match the grain of the stainless with 3M 240 grit wet/dry sand paper. Prepare to spend some time as a 1 square inch area can take 20 minutes or more by hand.

If the surface is polished I work progressively to finer grits then to emery cloth. If it's a large area, bite the bullet and buy a new piece.

[Daniel Eaton]

I'm working on stainless cups, so they are rounded. Sounds like it might not be worth the time to try to remove it. Has anyone tried to cover the cermark with a larger image on cermark? Does the original show though? Because we mainly do powder coating, I'm wondering if I can just do a solid black square (maye 3" x 3") over the bad logo, powder coat the cup, and then engrave a logo through the powder coat. That way, instead of having a silver/stainless engraving showing through, you'd have black. I'm thinking it might be a nice look for mascots and school emblems that have black as one of their colors.

[Bruce Volden]

I've had great results with a buffer and abrasive stick, but this was on flat work. I occasionally have to "feather" out the removal to match the finish.
Having several different grits works wonders!

Bruce

[Dave Gates]

I use a flap wheel on my dremel tool. I think it's 120 grit. I just use a light pressure and finish it off with high grit sandpaper or steel wool to match up the grain. Usually takes ~10 - 20 minutes depending on the size of the mark.

[Gary Hair]

I'm working on stainless cups, so they are rounded. Sounds like it might not be worth the time to try to remove it. Has anyone tried to cover the cermark with a larger image on cermark? Does the original show though? Because we mainly do powder coating, I'm wondering if I can just do a solid black square (maye 3" x 3") over the bad logo, powder coat the cup, and then engrave a logo through the powder coat. That way, instead of having a silver/stainless engraving showing through, you'd have black. I'm thinking it might be a nice look for mascots and school emblems that have black as one of their colors.

I doubt you'd have good results cermarking over an existing mark, but I would still try it and see. I really like the idea of lasering through the powder coat to reveal the black Cermark but I wonder if you'd see the outline of the black area through the powder coat? Please post pictures of your results, I'd like to see how it turns out!

[Daniel Eaton]

I use a flap wheel on my dremel tool. I think it's 120 grit. I just use a light pressure and finish it off with high grit sandpaper or steel wool to match up the grain. Usually takes ~10 - 20 minutes depending on the size of the mark.

What would you estimate for logos that are, on average, about 6 or 7 square inches (maybe 3"x2.5")?

[Kev Williams]

Cermark over Cermark WILL show differences, but the difference might be slight enough to get by doing the black-square-then-PC-then-re-laser thing you mention.

As for cleaning off Cermark-

On flat plates, you need: A Harbor Freight straightline sander, assuming you have a good air compressor, some GOOD 80 grit paper for it, not the crap in a roll that HF sells, you need some GOOD 3x paper-- cut it to fit the sander pad then double-back tape it to the pad... and you need some heavy duty red scotchbrite pads, which are designed for metal and are quite aggressive... Tape your plate down to a safe-to-sand-on table, and get after it with the sander and 80 grit, with the grain of course, back and forth, and side to side slowly. If you have trouble with the last 'shadow' of Cermark, try hand sanding to remove the last of it. Follow with the sander to smooth out your hand sanding marks. When it's gone, lay the scotchbrite pad down on the plate and apply the sander. This will microsand the SS and get you as close to a 'factory' #4 finish as you'll ever get at home.

For round objects, I use a HF mini-lathe, various sandpapers and emery cloths, and red scotchbrite to finish. I've never had to do anything as bit as a Yeti, which might be a trick with the small lathe, the hard part being supporting the other end of the cup..

Short version, good 80 grit paper, followed by red scotchbrite is the fastest way I know...

[Daniel Eaton]

You guys with all the "sawmill" equipment make it sound easy. I'm working with a start-up that just has what we need to do cups, not fix cups. So we don't have things like a lathe or even space to put it if we did. I think our best solution is to just powder-coat them in pretty colors and etch something on the back side of them (as opposed to the side that has the cup brand logo).

[Mike Null]

My method is hand sanding. No tools. But it is not fast and not practical for large areas such as 3" x 2.5". It does restore a Yeti to its original finish though.

[Kev Williams]

So we don't have things like a lathe or even space to put it if we did.

Can you find the lathe in this photo?
DSC05911.jpg


I bought this about 14 years ago, I'm always using it for something!
The power switch is flunky and the tool holder is about wore out, but it still does what I need it to do!
--and even I have room for it!
DSC05910.jpg

[Dave Gates]

What would you estimate for logos that are, on average, about 6 or 7 square inches (maybe 3"x2.5")?

I'd guess around 20- 25 minutes

[John Lifer]

You guys with all the "sawmill" equipment make it sound easy. I'm working with a start-up that just has what we need to do cups, not fix cups. So we don't have things like a lathe or even space to put it if we did. I think our best solution is to just powder-coat them in pretty colors and etch something on the back side of them (as opposed to the side that has the cup brand logo).

This is your best solution yet. BTW, I've got a 30oz and a 20oz that have been my test beds. I'll be PCing them at some point and probably not engraving thru the cermarked one as it is random all over.

Can you say gift