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Thread: Preparing the chip breaker on LN#4

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    850
    Quote Originally Posted by Keegan Shields View Post
    That did the trick! Thanks for the help.

    After putting a 70ish degree secondary bevel on the chip breaker (LN new version) of my 4 1/2, I can now plane this white oak in either direction without tear out.

    Do straight shavings like the one in the picture mean the chip breaker is properly engaged? I thought I read that somewhere.
    Indeed, when the cap iron is engaged the shavings will shoot out of the plane straight. If you retract it, the shavings will curl onto themselves.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,491
    I was asked (yesterday) for photos of my Veritas Custom #4 on the UK forum. Here they are …

    Here is my #4: 42 degree bed, "Stanley" handle, mushroom knob ..





    PM-V11 blade; chipbreaker modified with a partly-rounded leading edge, which has a small secondary at around 70-80 degrees; blade hollow ground at 32 degrees and free-hand honed to 13000 (Sigma).







    Driver for the screws ...





    Finally, shavings on Jarrah scrap quickly made for this post. This was into the grain. The quality of the surface is blemish-free. Smooth finish, but the example of wood is open-grained and quite coarse.




    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Clarks Summit PA
    Posts
    1,744
    Quote Originally Posted by Rafael Herrera View Post
    Indeed, when the cap iron is engaged the shavings will shoot out of the plane straight. If you retract it, the shavings will curl onto themselves.
    And usually they are compressed, that is the length of the shaving is shorter than the length of the board it came from...is that correct?

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