First and last table saw

[Tom Trees]

I'm looking to buy my first cabinet saw after getting by with a portable contractor saw for several years. I am on a budget but I want a quality saw that can last me the next 20 years. So far I've found the following three choices:

new 3hp Delta unisaw w/52in fence $2,450
new (floor model) 3hp Powermatic w/50in fence $2,700
new 3hp sawstop w/52in fence $2,999

I like the idea of the safety feature on the sawstop but obviously it comes at almost a $600 premium. I spent 3 years working on a cabinet saw in school that had neither the sawstop safety stop or even a riving knife so obviously it isn't a necessity if you take the proper precautions. What would you guys do? If anyone knows where I could find a better deal on that same sawstop I would love to go that route. Thanks

Does your workshop and stock have as stable an environment as your school did ?
Are you going to be using similar timbers ?
I'm guessing by your comments, your trying to get an idea of how solid the sawstop is, compared to the others regardless of its safety features .
Anyway,with that kind of money I'd be looking for a used slider too, like Marius Hornbergers lovely Hammer saw on youtube .
Have you thought about a used unisaw to tie you over ?...
Maybe you could get a three phase one and install a VFD or swap the motor out and you would make your money back selling it as a single
phase machine ?
Good Luck Webb
Tom

[Brian W Smith]

Delta 14,RT 40

[John Lanciani]

Find a used Northfield or Tannewitz. Northfields can be found in good condition for less than $1500 on the regular. You'll have a quality saw compared to the mediocre saws available.

Delta 14,RT 40

Kind of ambitious recommendations for a guy in a home shop moving up from a contractors saw, no? For 99% of home shops a Uni or 66 is the top of the mountain, most folks don't have the ability to move, power, or maintain vintage 14" and larger table saws nor the need for them.

As for me, I agree with Rod, an entry level slider of European descent is head and shoulders above an American style cabinet saw.

[Martin Wasner]

Mmmmmkay.... The sub $1500 saws of better quality are ambitious, but the slider isn't? Gotcha.

[Al Bacon]

Good Morning Webb

I am 76 years old and have owned 4 table saws in my life.
A Craftsman cabinet saw
A Craftsman 1.75 HP hybrid saw
A Grizzly Sliding Table saw
And after a very strange set of circumstances not of my own doing I now have a
3HP Sawstop with T-glide fence and mobile base

Today knowing what I know now I would forget about the first 2 saws. The first, not great and the second, not enough power.
The sliding table saw was a very good but has a learning curve without to much how-to documentation on line or in print. However if you are going to mainly build cabinets, it is the way to go,
The Sawstop, now in the shop has really impressed me. I WAS a never a Sawstop person until this one showed up. It was dead accurate out of the box, Nothing need tweaking. The mobile base is the cats behind, a few quick pumps and the saws 500+ lbs floats to its parking place like it weighed 25lbs.
I now love using this saw and consider the safety features a bonus.

So of the three saws you listed, if it were me (and its not), I would go with the Sawstop hands down.

[Ole Anderson]

If you are really on a budget, get a Grizzly and save the money for another major shop tool like a jointer or planer. I have had mine (a G1023) for 15 years and it is still running accurate and strong. The new ones come with a riving knife, as do all new table saws.

[Darcy Warner]

Most sliders are worthless for anything other than cutting up ply. The only ones I could stand in front of an use like a regular table saw were my Martin t75s. I have a holzher 1243 and a scmi w16 and while nice saws, they are virtually impossible and very awkward to try to use for ripping lumber. Plus they take up a ton of room.

[Ben Rivel]

First, last, only table saw purchase? I did that myself about a year ago. Researched the heck out of it and couldnt figure out a reason NOT to get a SawStop. Went with the 36" 3HP PCS with the ICS mobile base and overarm dust collection. Havent regretted it so far.

[Shawn Pixley]

Sawstop hands down

[James Zhu]

Most sliders are worthless for anything other than cutting up ply. The only ones I could stand in front of an use like a regular table saw were my Martin t75s. I have a holzher 1243 and a scmi w16 and while nice saws, they are virtually impossible and very awkward to try to use for ripping lumber. Plus they take up a ton of room.

There is no question Martin T75s is the best slider in the world. But I would not say most sliders are worthless for ripping lumber. With the proper technique and parallel fence, you can do perfect ripping on sliding table.

If the OP wants the last saw and on budget, I would strongly recommend a used slider. Saw stop does not help when kickback happens. Slider is much safer, cause you are not in the path of kickback which could be deadly.

James

[Jake Hillestad]

As someone that uses and maintains a pair of SawStops daily - I'd not have one in my personal shop. Use a "regular" cabinet saw in the way it is intended to be used and keep your head in the game and there shouldn't be any problem.

I'd be looking at old iron (very likely cheaper and arguably better quality), but if you're not the type to potentially refurb or replace parts that might be something you don't want to tackle. Wouldn't even consider a slider as previously mentioned.

[glenn bradley]

The great thing (and something to specifically remember) about online forums is that members get to give their opinions and speak from their experiences. One must watch closely for opinions free from specific experiences . Some people would use a router to brush their teeth if they could. Others use a RAS for every cut possible. There is a lot of good response here regarding the OP's price range and subject.

[Jim Becker]

Most sliders are worthless for anything other than cutting up ply.

That's a pretty subjective point of view. Personally, I'd not go back to a cabinet saw and most of my projects are made with solid stock. But true sliders are not for everyone and they do come with a learning curve. It's just a different way to work and for some of us, it's the right choice.

[Keith Hankins]

I'm a little biast but I'd go SS hands down. Safety feature alone. It's a quality saw. I bought mine several years ago and don't regret it one bit. Support is fantastic. What ever you get do a review here. We all love toys even if they are our neighbors

[Prashun Patel]

Webb, I am sure you know that this is like asking people which religion is the best.

"If anyone knows where I could find a better deal on that same sawstop I would love to go that route."

You will likely not find any discounts anywhere. you may find a used one on CL every once in a while, but the best you can hope for in a new SS is free giveaways like a blade or some accessory. You may also be able to avoid tax and or shipping in some cases. That's vendor and state specific.

If you can afford the difference, don't let that be the barrier to your purchase; the blade technology is worth $1mm to a consumer who appreciates it, and $0 to a person who does not. Both believe themselves to be 100% right. Decide which YOU are. Either way you choose, you will convince yourself like the rest of us, that you are 100% right.