Mineral Oil Question

[Andrew Kertesz]

Is there a cure/dry time for straight mineral oil on a cutting board? I have been coating a chunk of maple butcher block for my daughter for a cutting board, it has soaked up about as much as I think it will. Except for the end grain, the board is face grain. I think the end grain would soak up a 55 gal. drum if I had it... ;-)

[Cody Armstrong]

Hello Andrew. There really is no "curing" of the mineral oil as it is an oil. Sounds like you've got it coated good though if it won't take up any more oil. That's what your after and it's good to go. You may need to wipe of excess oil as it will soak into wrapping paper or anything it comes in contact with. You could give it a quick wash. It will raise the grain and then hit it with 400 grit paper to smooth it up. Subsequent washings by the end user won't raise the grain again.

[Andy Giddings]

At least on the end grain boards I made recently, they typically are dry overnight and that's after a couple of minutes dunking in an oil bath. They don't bleed oil afterwards (countertops are dry with them sitting on top).

[Jim Becker]

Yea, Mineral Oil only penetrates...it doesn't dry/cure. That's why it gets re-applied with some relative frequency. But it's the right choice for things like cutting boards and soapstone counters.

[Dan Hulbert]

I found a mix of beeswax and mineral oil works well. Seems to extend the time between coats of mineral oil. In a double boiler, heat about 3/4 cup of mineral oil to about 140 degrees, add 1/4 cup bees wax. Stir until the beeswax dissolves, pour into a suitable container (wide mouth jar or tin) and let it cool.

Turns into a kind of gelled mineral oil, goes on the board like wax. Wipe on, let sit for a bit, wipe off.