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Thread: Delta 14" bandsaw Sliding Bracket

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Pittsburgh
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    Delta 14" bandsaw Sliding Bracket

    OK. This post is very similar to Justin Ludwigs post "Delta 14" Bandsaw Help". However, my issue is, with no blade on the saw, I cannot get the upper wheel to turn, without scraping the upper wheel housing. Background: When I bought this saw used (28-203 w/riser block), it was tuned to perfection by former owner ( older gentleman). I used the saw for 2 yrs with no problems. The only upgrade was I put urethane tires on wheels. Then somehow (don't ask me how because I don't know), I broke the bolt that adjusts the tracking arm. I tried to drill out the bolt while it was on the saw, but stopped because I was afraid I would damage the threads on the sliding bracket casting. I was afraid to tear into it because I'm not really super mechanically inclined. I left it that way for months, leaving the blade that was in saw at the time and was tracking correctly. I finally bit the bullet and called Iturra Design to order a new sliding bracket. He said he had none and couldn't source any. He called me back later and said a Jet sliding bracket would work. When I received the new part, I removed the wheel and the original Delta bracket. The only difference between the Delta and Jet bracket was the Jet bracket had 2 set screws on one side where the pin for the adjusting arm goes through. Being an idiot, I centered the pin in the bracket with the set screws, however, I tightened the set screws, instead of leaving a small amount of play so the adjusting arm could swing. That is when the real trouble started. After replacing the wheel, I notice that I couldn't turn the wheel by hand (no blade), without it scraping the upper housing, no matter which direction I turned the adjusting bolt. (I'm surprised that the bolt even turned because I had tightened those set screws). I thought that if I put a blade on and tensioned the blade, the wheel might pull away from the housing. As I increased the tension (only to the 1/8" blade mark using a 3/8" blade, I heard a loud snap. I took the wheel back off and removed the bracket, only to find one side of the bracket with the set screw broke off (because I had tightened the set screws). The bracket is still usable I think, because it will still hold the pin, but only one set screw is on the bracket. I really don't know what I did wrong ( besides tightening the set screws). The wheel would not turn without scraping even before it broke. I did not change anything else. I took the original Delta sliding bracket to a machine shop to have them remove the bolt without damaging the threads on the casting. I will then try to re-install it and hope all my problems go away. Maybe it was just the Jet sliding bracket actually won't work on a Delta, even though it fits. Can anyone think of any other reason my wheel won't turn without scraping the housing? Sorry for the extra long drawn out post, but I've tried to explain my situation in detail in hopes of getting some guidance. To be continued......

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Central MA
    Posts
    1,592
    Not knowing how the original tracking bolt got broken leads me to believe that there is more going on with the saw. My first guess is that the upper wheel cover is bent; the wheel is actually where it is supposed to be and the tin is now hitting it.

    Any chance that something happened like a long board fell over and hit the saw?

    If it turns out that you need parts, good used O.E. parts are plentiful for your saw on ePay.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    9,447
    The vast majority of the time a wheel touching the cover on a Delta 14" saw is a bent or broken wheel hinge most often from over tension either with an aftermarket spring or bottoming out the spring.

    The Saw Center is probably the best source for NOS Delta saw parts.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Pittsburgh
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    42
    No John, nothing hit the saw. I was just using the saw a couple hours before I decided to tear it apart. It was tracking fine with the 3/8" blade, with the tracking knob set where it isstuck from the bolt being broke.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Central MA
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    1,592
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Gallo View Post
    No John, nothing hit the saw. I was just using the saw a couple hours before I decided to tear it apart. It was tracking fine with the 3/8" blade, with the tracking knob set where it isstuck from the bolt being broke.
    So how did the tracking adjustment bolt get broken? The answer to this is likely the key to the repair.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Pittsburgh
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    42
    I really can't remember how I broke the bolt, but if there is a way to pull a stupid stunt like that, I'm just the guy to do it.
    I think I was tensioning and tracking a 3/4" blade, and when the bolt got in a bind, I guess I applied too much pressure. I think I might have been using my longer wrench, which allowed me to apply more torque.

    I threw the 3/4" blade away, and will never use anything larger than 1/2".

  7. #7
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    Aug 2013
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    Hatfield, AR
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Central MA
    Posts
    1,592
    Well that pretty much tells me that at the very least the tracking arm got bent. Neither the tracking or tension adjustments on a Delta 14" saw ever require tools, especially not "the longer wrench". I would bet that the tension spring is at least partially collapsed and there is a chance that the upper casting has deformed as well.

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