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Thread: Suggestions for making a large, lightweight and strong box

  1. #1
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    Suggestions for making a large, lightweight and strong box

    I have a need for about 16-20 large boxes, measuring 50" long, 18" wide and 16" deep, and with a hinged lid like a casket, or removable entirely. However, they need to be rigid and as lightweight as possible. I was considering making them out of 1/2" plywood, but I am not confident that the box will hold together well without a bunch of heavy straps or braces. Does anyone have suggestions on how to do this? The contents of each box will weigh between 60 and 100 lb, so they will need to have some kind of handle on each end for two people to carry them. I also need to be able to stack the boxes four high if possible. Almost like old war-era wooden ordnance boxes. Final requirement is that they need to be made for less than $20 each.
    Jon Endres
    Killing Trees Since 1983

  2. #2
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    I don't know how you are going to do it for less the $20. BDFT wise it is about the same as a sheet of plywood but because of the dimensions you can't make one out of 1 sheet of plywood. You can't shift the pieces to make 2 out 2 sheets. I haven't seen any decent plywood for $20 a sheet. You are going to have to find some material that is <$0.70/bdft

  3. #3
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    You could do what canoe makers do and sew the boxes plywood together with wire and then epoxy. That might violate your budget.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stitch_and_glue

    I'm not sure how these joints would perform under tension. In a boat, the stresses are mostly compression and shear.




  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Wayne, Pa.
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    I don't know if this would work in your budget but ammo boxes hold heavy stuff, sometimes long, are cheaply made and reinforced. They have handles too.
    ammo box.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Have you considered buying cardboard boxes instead? There are boxes made to hold a lot of weight and a sheet of Masonite or plywood in the bottom may help too. Less than $20 each, kinda rules out building them of wood.
    Last edited by Jim Finn; 12-02-2016 at 5:40 PM.
    No PHD, but I have a DD 214

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Sterling, Virginia
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    Maybe these? http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/pa...-kraft-10-pack. As close to your size as I could find.

  7. #7
    I played around with several layouts, as Im sure you did. That 50" dimension is a killer if you really have to do it for $20 each, including hinges, screws and handles.

    Im doing some out of the box thinking here. I dont have answers, but maybe it will give you ideas.
    1. Do these have to look nice, or is it purely a matter of function? I'm guessing that if you can hit that price they wont care too much? Think about OSB as a material at $10 per sheet. Gotta drill screw holes though.

    2. Are they going to be used more than a few times? The approach might be different if it's a one shot like a casket than if it's got to be used several times.

    3. Do you have to count labor in that $20? If it is for a charity or Church, you can get boy scout help. Seriously. My Church just did that. If you have time to wait, and if it is a charity, it could be a boy scout eagle project too.

    4. Do the sides have to be smooth on the outside of the box? If not, you can stretch each 4x8 sheet of material at least a little further by making each side out of THREE pieces instead of two - two 25 x16 pieces joined by a smaller third piece that attaches to each. Depending on how much room is left inside after you fill it, you might be able to do the same for top and/or bottom.

    5. Does it have to be weatherproof? If not, make the "handles" just cutout 2" x 6" slots in each end. Or drill two holes on each end and run a thick rope handle through them.

    6. I recently saw a shipping crate where the sides and ends were made of 1/4" material, framed by 2" wide strips of 3/4" plywood. Kind of like a panel door, but stapled together and uglier. The top and bottom were solid sheets of thicker plywood. This sort of approach could also let you stretch a sheet of plywood. Especially if you could combine it with 3 piece top/bottom as discussed in #4.

    7. Hinges. When I was on a trip last year, I stopped at a habitat for humanity restore. They had a ton of used hinges, hardware, etc. Even some used solid doors!

    Fred
    Last edited by Frederick Skelly; 12-02-2016 at 5:25 PM.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  8. #8
    5/8 or 3/4 MDF T&G. Corner braced, if you must, mine were not. Made some, strong,
    paint-able, presentable. Used PVAC glue.
    Still together after 20 years.

  9. #9
    I suggest 7/16 OSB with at least 3/4 pieces in the corners to give more glueing area. You might need 2x2s but that could blow the budget. I'd try it with 3/4 by 3/4 braces and glue and staple the boxes together. They won't be pretty but I am sure they will be strong enough with 2x2s and I think there is a decent chance they will be fine with the smaller 3/4 pieces.

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