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Thread: Thin epoxy options?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Northeast Georgia
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    834

    Thin epoxy options?

    I'm working on some benches for our kitchen table. I found some really cool 1830's barn beams, hand hewn and lots of bug holes. These are going to be used every day- so they need to be smooth enough to sit on for wiggly kids, and I don't want food/crumbs in the holes. I'm contemplating filling the divots and holes with epoxy and then sanding down to reveal some of the high points but keeping a lot of the character of the wood. I've used the enviro-tex epoxy quite a bit but it's pretty viscous. Not sure it will settle in the bug holes well. A buddy recommended West marine epoxy, says it's much thinner. I thought I'd see what you guys think. Thanks.

    I've tried to attach a pic but the app keeps crashing.
    Last edited by Rob Price; 11-18-2016 at 1:23 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Lewiston, Idaho
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    28,535
    Rob....epoxy can be thinned by mixing denatured alcohol with it IIRC. Turners make an epoxy cocktail to stabilize punky wood by thinning epoxy and slathering it on.

    Do a search on "epoxy cocktail" here at SMC. There are a lot of threads about it.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Roseville, MN
    Posts
    349
    Look at west systems expensive but works very well

  4. #4
    I deal with filling voids all the time in my laminates, using a whole host of resins like epoxy, UV cure glue, 2K acrylic etc and use a syringe for filling from the bottom up. I get all my syringes from McMaster Carr with different needles. The large .030" or larger needles will allow plenty of flow to fill your wormholes quickly. You will discover that the epoxy soaks in after ten minutes, so you will need to top off the holes after initial filling. If you don't fill from the bottom up, like the way you planned, the air will trap at the top and you will see the bubble. You can even bend the needles easily to go deep into curved holes.

    That way you can get away without thinning the epoxy, however, I have had no problems with thinned epoxy, in a 15% ratio of DNA like Ken suggested. Even 10% will thin it plenty, yet not affect cure or final properties.
    john.blazy_dichrolam_llc
    Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Perfect. That's what I was looking for. A syringe makes sense.

  6. #6
    I would go for Acetone or MEK for thinning epoxy. I've done it with the Envirotech stuff from the box stores. They say not to, but I haven't seen any negative results from doing it.

    Applying heat with a torch is what works the best for getting it to settle into the cracks and holes I've found. It warms it up, thins it out, and brings the bubbles to the surface. There's something there too about CO2 helping, but I don't understand it. I just know a torch works much better than a heat gun.

  7. #7
    A slow-setting epoxy (like System 3), while viscous does a very good job of settling into cracks over its 40 minute open-time. Further, it gives bubbles time escape - provided you do not try to fill deep voids in a single pass. If you fear white bubbles, you can tint it with a drop of black dye which will make it opaque.

    You can also heat the components by immersing the bottles in hot water for 30 minutes before mixing. If you don't have to thin, I wouldn't.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
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    420
    I like Cold-Cure from Lee Valley. Very thin, dries clear and seeps into every nook and cranny before it sets up. Not cheap but it works well!
    Best regards,

    Ron

    You haven't really been lost until you've been lost at Mach 2!


  9. #9
    I use US Composites. Comparable to West Systems and System 3, at 1/3 the price.
    Gerry

    JointCAM

  10. #10
    On a boat repair, I needed to inject epoxy into a pretty small hole. I put the resin without hardener underneath a 100 watt lamp until it got warm. Then added the slow-acting hardener, stirred a full 60 seconds, and injected with syringe. Worked perfectly.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
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    834
    I see a lot of folks warming it up, I may try that first before thinning. My shop is heated, but I also can put a radiant heater in the finishing booth to warm that room up even more.

    Keep the brand recommendations coming, I see several marine epoxies on Amazon I can get shipped free. TotalBoat. East coast resin... I did find a place to get West Systems about 40 miles from here.
    Where did I put that?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Conerly View Post
    On a boat repair, I needed to inject epoxy into a pretty small hole. I put the resin without hardener underneath a 100 watt lamp until it got warm. Then added the slow-acting hardener, stirred a full 60 seconds, and injected with syringe. Worked perfectly.
    Hobie 16 deck repair?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lubbock Texas
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    931
    I use "Z-poxy" finishing resin to fill voids. It will flow right through cracks so the underside needs to have masking tape applied. Slow to set up, so great penetration. Hobby shops should have it available.
    No PHD, but I have a DD 214

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    NC Piedmont
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    I've used West Systems and some others in boat building and it is good epoxy but I think MAS is the Cadillac of epoxies. Their resin is thinner, dries water-clear, and no blush. They also make a thicker resin called FLAG for (filleting, lamination, and gluing). If you want something less expensive but still good, look at RAKA epoxies.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
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    I will probably thin for the worm holes. Nothing structural, just keeping food out. Then I will level with full strength. I found a way to link an image:

    https://goo.gl/photos/tvpBU4YRowfBzJQA8
    Last edited by Rob Price; 11-19-2016 at 12:41 PM.

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