Indoor vs. Outdoor Anodized Aluminum

[Brett Winston]

JDS sells both "indoor" and "outdoor" anodized aluminum. Does anyone have experience with using either of these, laser engraved, outside? I don't understand what would be different. Thanks! -Brett

[Bert Kemp]

I have a file that might help but is to large to upload here pm me your email Ill send it.

[Kev Williams]

I was going to attempt an explanation, but this website will do a much better job

http://www.linetec.com/anodize/anodize_overview.html

[Brett Winston]

Thanks for the info guys. I think the info is good but doesn't apply since I'm lasering off the coating. I have just lasered samples of my customer's sign on both "indoor" and "outdoor" anodized aluminum. I had hopes for the "outdoor" but it engraves to a dark gray color and on a black anodized sheet there just isn't enough contrast. Has anyone had success clear coating an aluminum sign with a non-yellowing top coat that has survived outside for 3 or more years?

[Neville Stewart]

Automotive clear doesn't yellow.

[Brett Winston]

Automotive clear doesn't yellow.

Could it be this simple? ... Automotive Enamel in a can

[Bill George]

Simpler yet, get a can of Dupli Color automotive clear coat at a automotive supply store.

[Kev Williams]

I wouldn't clear coat anodized aluminum, just an extra step and expense with no guarantee it'll last.

2 other options to consider:

One, consider this aluminum (red arrow), not sure where else to get it, but it works-It's .040 thick, plenty rigid enough for up to say, 16 x 16", (my opinion), it IS for outdoor use, and BOTH SIDES are laserable. It says "gloss" black but compared to most trophy black stock, it's more of a "semi" gloss, but still plenty glossy. Lasers nicely, to silver, and again, it's not a bright silver, definitely more of a semi-gloss. Marco charges $9.40 a sheet, 10 sheets run $7.90 each, that's about half what 1/16" Rowmark costs...
page.jpg

Option 2, have your own aluminum made up. I've been doing it for years. But first, you need to locate an anodizing shop that does, or will, use UV resistant dye, which will keep outdoor fade to a bare minimum, while still engraving reasonably white. The panels in this pic have been outside for nearly 4 years. They face the morning sun. The large panel had the small panel in front if it for about 2 of those years, then I moved it. As is totally obvious, the big panel's anodizing isn't the least bit UV resistant, the small panel was done by a shop that uses UV resistant dye by default. The panel has only slightly lightened up, and the engraving is nearly white.
anodfade.jpg

[Ross Moshinsky]

Talk about overkill. You're either using too much power or too little power. Adjust your settings to get a whiter mark.

While some anodized aluminum is tougher than others, generally speaking, it's all fine for going outside. I have no idea what "interior" vs "exterior" anodized material you're looking at, because there is only one item listed as "anodized" in JDS's 2016 catalog that I saw. The other stuff is not appropriate for outdoor use because it has a "lacquer" finish which will fail. LazerBlak aluminum is relatively outdoor friendly and does not have a lacquer finish.

[Brett Winston]

Talk about overkill. You're either using too much power or too little power. Adjust your settings to get a whiter mark.

While some anodized aluminum is tougher than others, generally speaking, it's all fine for going outside. I have no idea what "interior" vs "exterior" anodized material you're looking at, because there is only one item listed as "anodized" in JDS's 2016 catalog that I saw. The other stuff is not appropriate for outdoor use because it has a "lacquer" finish which will fail. LazerBlak aluminum is relatively outdoor friendly and does not have a lacquer finish.

Not overkill to me, I want to provide the best product for my customer and my reputation is important to me. Lookup JDS alum901 and alum909. The laser settings I used on both are the same and the alum901 came out just fine. I'll be running more tests on the 909 tomorrow and clear coating the 901 for this job if need be. I'm not a fan of lazerblak. I'll try the product that Kev pointed out next time I have a similar order.

[Gerald Johs]

Not overkill to me, I want to provide the best product for my customer and my reputation is important to me. Lookup JDS alum901 and alum909. The laser settings I used on both are the same and the alum901 came out just fine. I'll be running more tests on the 909 tomorrow and clear coating the 901 for this job if need be. I'm not a fan of lazerblak. I'll try the product that Kev pointed out next time I have a similar order.

Brett, wondering if you did your clear coat testing.

[John Lifer]

If you want to clear coat and have it stay, get a clear wheel coating. I sprayed my rims, 6 years ago. Car HAS been in garage last year, but prior to that outside 24x7. Wheel enamel, colored below, clear on top. The paint has not chipped or changed colorand I have tried the JDS exterior black anodized and I didn't get good results. Just wouldn't cut cleanly to base metal.

[Kev Williams]

With a C02 laser you're not supposed to laser anodized thru the oxide layer an into the aluminum, you only hit it with enough power for the laser to 'bleach' the dye in the oxide to near white. Some lasers (my 80 Triumph) can engrave to the aluminum, but most times it won't remove ALL the oxide, and the blotchy results look terrible. Some anodizing is so thin that NOT engraving thru the oxide is a trick in itself. I've found with some anodized that 20% of 40 watts is too much power.

In short, anodized aluminum is as variable as wood when it comes to lasering it...

Fiber lasers will penetrate most oxide layers with ease, but not all, some hard anodized coatings are near impossible for my fiber to get thru. But all my C02's will turn it white easily...