Wolverine platform angle

[Aaron Craven]

I'm having trouble figuring out how to semi-precisely set the angle of my wolverine platform relative to the surface of my grinding wheel. Specifically, I would like to set it at 90 degrees to set the grind on a parting tool, though I have other uses in mind as well. Since the wheel is round, I'm having trouble figuring out how square the platform accurately.

Obviously, there are better choices out there (robo-rest being the obvious option), but I don't really have the spare funds at the moment.

[Eugene Dixon]

I made a jig that lets me lay my parting tool on its side for grinding. I set the platform just below centerline of the wheel (based on tool thickness) and hold the jig on the platform at an angle to the wheel consistent with the parting tool cutting face. Works for me.

[Aaron Craven]

I made a jig that lets me lay my parting tool on its side for grinding. I set the platform just below centerline of the wheel (based on tool thickness) and hold the jig on the platform at an angle to the wheel consistent with the parting tool cutting face. Works for me.

I'm having trouble picturing what you're describing. What does the jig look like? Also by "on its side", do you mean the wide part of the side, or the thin? I was taught to sharpen the tool with the wide side flat on the platform, 90 degrees rotated from what is being done in this picture (obviously, my tool has a flat profile -- I wouldn't be able to lay a diamond cross-section tool flat on the platform):

grind-parting-tool.jpg

To ensure I don't get a point with a skewed end on it, the platform has to be square with the part of the wheel the tool is contacting. I can get it close eyeballing it, but it always seems just a little bit off.

[Scott Hackler]

You shouldn't need a platform to sharpen a parting tool. Use the long arm with the pocket and slide it up until the wheel matches the current or desired angle. Sharpen that side and flip the tool for the other side.

[Dom Garafalo]

I'm very new at turning but I too grind my flat sided parting tool on its side. What I've been doing with my parting tool is to apply a wide black magic marker to the sharpened portion of the tool and then adjust the platform to approximately the centerline of the wheel then turn the grinding wheel by hand and view where the wheel is touching the tool. I then adjust the platform a slight amount to get the angle perfect which only takes a few seconds. This approach has worked well for me and is fast.

[Robert Henrickson]

With very little practice you can do it freehand.

[John K Jordan]

I sharpen these freehand (held against a flat or round bar rest), but I think you could easily make a little wooden jig with a lip to keep it perfectly aligned on the rest with a slot to hold the parting tool upright.

[Mike Goetzke]

Do yourself a favor and get a "ROBO REST". Very ingenious platform to repeatably set angles in increments of 5 degrees. I'm a novice turner and trying to use a freehand 40/40 grind on my bowl gouge - Reed's platform makes it easier to get the grind angles correct. He has one that is made to be used with the Wolverine system.

Mike

[Jeramie Johnson]

Do yourself a favor and get a "ROBO REST". Very ingenious platform to repeatably set angles in increments of 5 degrees. I'm a novice turner and trying to use a freehand 40/40 grind on my bowl gouge - Reed's platform makes it easier to get the grind angles correct. He has one that is made to be used with the Wolverine system.

Mike

I second this. Love my Robo rest and I also have the Wolverine.

[Peter Fabricius]

Try using the belt sander, easy and effective. Works well for getting a flat on the edges. If you want you can hone the flats after the belt sander.
Peter F.

[Vince Welch]

Aaron,
Here is a quick video Oneway put out years ago. 9:30 starts the parting tool section.
Vince

[Aaron Craven]

Do yourself a favor and get a "ROBO REST". Very ingenious platform to repeatably set angles in increments of 5 degrees. I'm a novice turner and trying to use a freehand 40/40 grind on my bowl gouge - Reed's platform makes it easier to get the grind angles correct. He has one that is made to be used with the Wolverine system.

Mike

I would LOVE too... but I don't have the funds at the moment..

[Eugene Dixon]

I'm having trouble picturing what you're describing. What does the jig look like? Also by "on its side", do you mean the wide part of the side, or the thin? I was taught to sharpen the tool with the wide side flat on the platform, 90 degrees rotated from what is being done in this picture (obviously, my tool has a flat profile -- I wouldn't be able to lay a diamond cross-section tool flat on the platform):

grind-parting-tool.jpg

To ensure I don't get a point with a skewed end on it, the platform has to be square with the part of the wheel the tool is contacting. I can get it close eyeballing it, but it always seems just a little bit off.

Yes,
wide part of tool. I fixed the sides of the jig so that I have to press the tool into the jigs two "walls" of hardboard. I have to eye ball it to make sure the bottom of the jig and the centerline of the long width of the tool are parallel. Laying this on the grinder flat plate lets me minimize the hollow grind effect.

If you would like I'll try to take a picture tomorrow.
Best,

[Jamie Straw]

You shouldn't need a platform to sharpen a parting tool. Use the long arm with the pocket and slide it up until the wheel matches the current or desired angle. Sharpen that side and flip the tool for the other side.

Some of us grind some parting tools on their sides rather than vertically. A flat, square-edge parting tool is great for making a square tenon.

[Jamie Straw]

Here's a good diagram for help grinding a diamond parting tool, for those of us who aren't quite up to free-hand (although the diamonds seem most friendly to free-hand). I sharpen my flat PT and the thin PT on their sides, on the platform, to get a spot-on 90-degree with no hollow grind, makes them more versatile.
https://hiltonhandcraft.com/Articles...harpening.html