[OP]
Contributor
I'm thinking of replacing my rather generic hybrid saw with a Sawstop Professional model. Shop size and configuration dictate the 30" fence and a mobile base, but I have two questions:
1. Can I mount my Benchdog cast iron router table on this saw?
2. Is the 3hp version worth an extra $400, plus in my case upgraded electrical service to the shop?
Member
My 1.75 hp PCS does everything I ask it to do ....
Contributor
I can't answer your question about the benchdog, but I'd sure prefer a 3HP saw to the 1.75HP.
I have the 3HP SawStop now.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Member
What do you plan to cut with the saw?
For what it's worth I would spend the extra $ for the added capability unless it really crunches e budget.
Contributor
1.) Yes. It may need some modification, and different holes drilled, but that's not hard.Originally Posted by Steve Demuth
2.) Yes, it's worth the extra $400.00. You must be right on the margin electrically right now with a hybrid TS and a DC running. You're going to have upgrade your wiring eventually, and this seems like a good time.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Member
Steve,
I wouldn't even hesitate to get the 3HP, in fact I wish I had sprung for the 5HP ICS, but the 3 will do everything I ask of it. I have a bench dog table mounted to mine with the 30" fence. I started a thread about it a few years ago. Here's the link.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...enchDog-Promax
If you have any questions or want more pics send me a message.
Steve
Contributor
I can't answer the question about your router, but I do have the 3 hp professional and am very happy with it. I once had a 1.5 hp Delta contractors saw and I can say the SS is so much more powerful than the Delta was, you can almost feel it just by turning it on. $400.00 is a lot of money, but compared to the overall price of the saw it doesn't seem like that much more to almost double the hp. I don't regret getting the 3hp and would do it again, hope this helps you.Kevin
Member
+1 on the 3 hp.
Member
Can't answer 1, but for Q2 YES! Only way I would ever consider less is if you could not under any circumstances do 220v.
I'm a SawstopICS 5hp owner, and love love that saw! Get the good mobile base. I move mine with a pinky.
Last edited by Chris Padilla; 11-08-2016 at 12:54 PM.
Moderator
I also believe the 3hp is a worthy upgrade from 110v x 1.75 hp.
Here's why:
I owned a 1.75hp saw and it would bog down under very thick stock. I never met something I couldn't cut on it, but I modified my procedures to take multiple passes. This meant that I also had to plan on jointing that face because multiple passes always left me with an imperfect face. The 3hp saw I have now does not require this forethought, which is convenient.
Second, if you have a long run from your elec panel to your tool, I have noticed that my 110v jointer sagged on start up and was prone to slowing down or lights dimming. When I rewired it for 220, it responded faster. Again, I'm not saying it restricted me in what I could ultimately do, but I did have to work shallower and take slighter passes on things. Adding 220v now will give you options on your next tool upgrade, so I would advise doing it if you have the means and the interest.
Now, I'm not sure I would mount the router in the tablesaw wing. I use a router table relatively infrequently compared to the saw. For that, rolling out a router table (which tends to have a small footprint) is doably. In fact, I'd be more inclined to put your router table in a double-duty assembly table than a tablesaw. Just me.
Contributor
I would, and did, go for the 3HP model. But more importantly, I'd go for the 36" fence. Not for the extra 6", but because it is a vastly better fence. The 30" 'premium' fence is mediocre at best. If space is that much of a premium, you can always cut the rails down 6".
The cast iron router table can easily be added. Might have to drill a few holes though. I will be putting a router table in mine because I just do not have the room for a dedicated table.
Contributor
Just a comment: Don't cut the rails down. If you need the space, first try to slip the tube over by 6". You may have to drill new mounting holes but that's not difficult. That way, you can recover that 6" if you need it later.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Member
I echo what everyone else said. I have the 1.75 because I can't get 220v.
There have been multiple times when I overloaded the saw, bogged it down and tripped the breaker on the machine. I am a casual user as I do most everything with hand tools.
3hp is better way to go on a buy once machine.
Member
Frank,
You can get the good fence in a 30" length. I originally bought the 36 and when installing it was very apparent it was too long for my space. I took the mounting rails back and switched them out for the 30" rails.
Steve
Member
I have the 3HP PCS and love the power. My 1.5 HP Ridgid used to stall in tough situations, so I was concerned with being underpowerd. My Benchdog 40-102 ProMax bolted right up without issue. I did have to drill the Sawstop rails to add bolts in them for support. I also added a cast iron Sawstop extension as well between the router table and the main body of the PCS. It is currently mounted to the right of the blade but I used to have it on the left. You definitely need the support legs on the right hand side. Hope this helps.
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