[OP]
Contributor
I'm thinking of replacing my rather generic hybrid saw with a Sawstop Professional model. Shop size and configuration dictate the 30" fence and a mobile base, but I have two questions:
1. Can I mount my Benchdog cast iron router table on this saw?
2. Is the 3hp version worth an extra $400, plus in my case upgraded electrical service to the shop?
Member
My 1.75 hp PCS does everything I ask it to do ....
Contributor
I can't answer your question about the benchdog, but I'd sure prefer a 3HP saw to the 1.75HP.
I have the 3HP SawStop now.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Member
What do you plan to cut with the saw?
For what it's worth I would spend the extra $ for the added capability unless it really crunches e budget.
Contributor
1.) Yes. It may need some modification, and different holes drilled, but that's not hard.Originally Posted by Steve Demuth
2.) Yes, it's worth the extra $400.00. You must be right on the margin electrically right now with a hybrid TS and a DC running. You're going to have upgrade your wiring eventually, and this seems like a good time.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Member
Steve,
I wouldn't even hesitate to get the 3HP, in fact I wish I had sprung for the 5HP ICS, but the 3 will do everything I ask of it. I have a bench dog table mounted to mine with the 30" fence. I started a thread about it a few years ago. Here's the link.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...enchDog-Promax
If you have any questions or want more pics send me a message.
Steve
Contributor
I can't answer the question about your router, but I do have the 3 hp professional and am very happy with it. I once had a 1.5 hp Delta contractors saw and I can say the SS is so much more powerful than the Delta was, you can almost feel it just by turning it on. $400.00 is a lot of money, but compared to the overall price of the saw it doesn't seem like that much more to almost double the hp. I don't regret getting the 3hp and would do it again, hope this helps you.Kevin
Member
+1 on the 3 hp.
[OP]
Contributor
Probably a little bit over, truth be told. Have to make some deliberate decisions about machine configurations sometimes, so I certainly do need to upgrade the service.2.) Yes, it's worth the extra $400.00. You must be right on the margin electrically right now with a hybrid TS and a DC running. You're going to have upgrade your wiring eventually, and this seems like a good time.
Member
Here's a picture of my 3HP PCS with a cast iron router wing. I had to cut notches in the fence rails for router wing's mitre gauge, and I had to drill out the holes in the router wing's edges a little bit to match the holes in the saw stop's cast iron. My saw is against the wall on the right side, so I use it standing as if I'm using the table saw. I'm about 6' tall, so I don't have too much trouble reaching - it's less convenient than I'd like, but it works for me. Someone less tall (I would guess less than 5'8" or so) would have trouble safely feeding stock over the router like this. I previously had this router wing mounted on the left side of a contractor saw and I liked that configuration A LOT more, but with the motor bubble on the left side of the saw stop that isn't feasible. The SawStop already has legs under the fence rails but before I added this, I didn't really think about them too much. With the added weight on the right side, those legs really do become necessary. Mounting the cast iron router table further to the right in place of SawStop's wooden table would probably make it so unstable that rolling it around on the PCS Mobile Base would be difficult.
IMG_4674.jpg
Contributor
I mounted the cast iron router table more to the right. I agree, that without sufficient support it would lead to tipping, but I built cabinets / dust collection around it, which supplies more than sufficient support, and it works fantastically for me, with tons of storage.
And I couldn't agree more to go to 3HP.DSC_8499.jpg
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
[OP]
Contributor
Alan,
That looks great. How is it to move around? Looks like an aircraft carrier in your garage.
Contributor
I can't think of how much it weighs.
It has six casters under its base (note to self, never use more than four), but I very rarely move it, as my workshop is small and it has its specific place.
When I built it and installed the cast iron router table, it did try to tip to the right (mines on the right wing), so the advice you received early was very good. Provide some support under it when you are doing that step, as it is quite a long lever arm (mine is the 52 inch version).
Last edited by Alan Lightstone; 11-19-2016 at 9:43 AM.
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
Member
Can't answer 1, but for Q2 YES! Only way I would ever consider less is if you could not under any circumstances do 220v.
I'm a SawstopICS 5hp owner, and love love that saw! Get the good mobile base. I move mine with a pinky.
Last edited by Chris Padilla; 11-08-2016 at 12:54 PM.
Moderator
I also believe the 3hp is a worthy upgrade from 110v x 1.75 hp.
Here's why:
I owned a 1.75hp saw and it would bog down under very thick stock. I never met something I couldn't cut on it, but I modified my procedures to take multiple passes. This meant that I also had to plan on jointing that face because multiple passes always left me with an imperfect face. The 3hp saw I have now does not require this forethought, which is convenient.
Second, if you have a long run from your elec panel to your tool, I have noticed that my 110v jointer sagged on start up and was prone to slowing down or lights dimming. When I rewired it for 220, it responded faster. Again, I'm not saying it restricted me in what I could ultimately do, but I did have to work shallower and take slighter passes on things. Adding 220v now will give you options on your next tool upgrade, so I would advise doing it if you have the means and the interest.
Now, I'm not sure I would mount the router in the tablesaw wing. I use a router table relatively infrequently compared to the saw. For that, rolling out a router table (which tends to have a small footprint) is doably. In fact, I'd be more inclined to put your router table in a double-duty assembly table than a tablesaw. Just me.
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