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Thread: Oneida V-3000 newer resin series reviews

  1. #16
    I have also been using mine for about 6 months. I really like it. Properly grounded I get no static build up on the hose or bin.

    I made the mistake of letting the bin get too full, which then caused the filter to back up. Even then, it did not suffer a noticeable performance drop (to me). I only noticed because I saw the drop down flex tube from the cyclone to the bin was full of chips. Cleaning the filter was easy; it detaches swiftly with star knobs. I carried it outside and was able to roll, pat it clean fairly easily.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Sparta, MI (West Michigan)
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    While I don't own one, the V-3000 is probably the ideal size/capacity for my 500 sf hobby shop. I have almost pulled the trigger multiple times on an Oneida V-3000, but haven't as of yet found a way to squeeze it into an existing "closet" space. For those that have one, have any of you found a way to reduce the foot print to less than the published 32.5" x 47" dimension? Unfortunately, my fixed closet space is only about 44" x 44". It is hard to tell if I would gain anything by switching to a wall mount bracket over the floor stand. It looks to me that the V-3000 transition elbow from the blower to the filter is my biggest opportunity to gain a few inches. If there was a good way to shorten this up, I could probably shoehorn it in the slightly smaller space. Has anyone else tried to shorten this 90 degree elbow with a homemade transition or use of flex hose?

    I am currently running a Grizzly 2hp bagger heavily-modified with a Wynn filter and Thien separator hard-piped into 6" PVC. For what it is, it does pretty well, though it lacks in horsepower and impeller to do any more than it does. FWIW, all of my 6" PVC ductwork is already done as short and straight of runs as possible, with all directional transitions a series of soft 45's.

  3. #18
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    Jun 2015
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    Yep, still lovin mine! The V-3000 really is a nice unit. Perfect for a home shop!

    Check out my threads on building the Oneida Realtime Filter Efficiency Gauge (LINK) and Dust Sentry Bin Level Sensor (LINK) for A LOT cheaper than buying them from Oneida.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  4. #19
    I also have a Clearvue 1800 installed in my basement. Because of very low ceiling height I made three modifications to accommodate my space:

    I mounted the two Wynn filters side by side by constructing a simple MDF split manifold off of the fan output elbow and used a/c insulated duct to bridge the transition

    I used the space between my floor joists to mount the motor and fan.

    I used a shorter dust bin (35 gal) available from Penn State Ind. (easier to empty a shoerter bin)

    Total required installation height (including the joist space) was 91"

    My installation has been in use for at least five years and I am very pleased with it

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Columbia, MO
    Posts
    63
    I have the resin version for of the V-3000 for over two years now and it works very well. I chose it since I wanted to put it into a cramped space in my workshop where the motor extends between the ceiling joists. The form factor in the end swayed me to the Oneida against the Clearvue. I looked a lot at fan curves and did simulate my system curves for my shop. The most important thing was to get the right-sized ducting.

    I have to add a word of caution regarding the resin parts of the V-3000: they have quite broad tolerances and I was not pleased with how the parts came together the first time I mounted it in place. The 90-degree turn was not 90 degree and the bottom end barely fitted in the space. I clearly recall the emotions left from my prolonged exchanges with Oneida on the issue: I came close to trash the whole thing due to the responses and help I got from customer service and their engineers. In short, rather give it a few inches more for the filter placement so you can wait for the plastic to flow into form over time.

    IMG_1976_2.jpgIMG_1981.jpgIMG_1988.jpg

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
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    Johannes, is that the resin or metal cyclone body? (thought the yellow ones were metal?)

    Also, I see that you have it next to your hot water heater. Is there any issue/concern with interaction with the vent from the water heater burner?

    Matt

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Columbia, MO
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    63
    Apologies, I didn't look at their website in a while and see that the total system is resin nowadays. Only the top impeller housing and plenum is made out of resin in mine.

    I have no issues with the water heater since the inlet and the filter housing is in the same room. So there is no pressure differential that could cause problems. In my understanding it becomes an issue when you have different rooms and potentially create a negative pressure causing backflow from the heater. This could happen if you went outside or have the collector in a different room with insufficient air flow in between.

  8. #23
    For the V-3000 owners, were you compelled at all to jump up to the 5hp model? It would seem to me that the 3hp model is plenty powerful for a one man shop, and is also less power/heat, quieter, and can probably be run on a smaller breaker/wire. However, the 5hp model really isn't much more expensive, and it is hard to say no to more power.

    Another question I have is, does anyone know if the V-3000 can be bought without the stand? What if you want the wall-mount instead? What if you want neither? I would plan to build a mobile stand for the unit until it can be wall-mounted one day. I don't really care for the metal stand too much.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Halsted View Post
    For the V-3000 owners, were you compelled at all to jump up to the 5hp model? It would seem to me that the 3hp model is plenty powerful for a one man shop, and is also less power/heat, quieter, and can probably be run on a smaller breaker/wire. However, the 5hp model really isn't much more expensive, and it is hard to say no to more power.

    Another question I have is, does anyone know if the V-3000 can be bought without the stand? What if you want the wall-mount instead? What if you want neither? I would plan to build a mobile stand for the unit until it can be wall-mounted one day. I don't really care for the metal stand too much.
    I don't think it's worth it to pay extra for the 5 HP. I got the V-5000, but it will not use nearly all the power the motor is capable of. Even with no filters & a very short 8" duct, when it should be working at maximum capacity, it won't pull more than about 13 A. Full load on the 5 HP motor is about 21 A. I went through tech support, but I basically got the run around. Everything about it is the same as the 3 HP model, except the motor.

    I'd have pursued it further, but with 3 HP I've got more than enough capacity. It certainly has soured me on Oneida though.

  10. #25
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    Jun 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Halsted View Post
    For the V-3000 owners, were you compelled at all to jump up to the 5hp model? It would seem to me that the 3hp model is plenty powerful for a one man shop, and is also less power/heat, quieter, and can probably be run on a smaller breaker/wire. However, the 5hp model really isn't much more expensive, and it is hard to say no to more power.

    Another question I have is, does anyone know if the V-3000 can be bought without the stand? What if you want the wall-mount instead? What if you want neither? I would plan to build a mobile stand for the unit until it can be wall-mounted one day. I don't really care for the metal stand too much.
    Yea after I did my research, I came to the conclusion that garage/home shops really shouldnt need more than a 3HP dust collector, especially if the rest of the system is built out well and all the tools connected are designed at least to some degree with dust collection in mind. I have not once so far wished for more power from my V-3000 and Im glad I could keep it on a 20A circuit and not have to run a 30A for the 5HP V-5000.

    Sure, call Oneida and they can cater the build out however you like. It may look like its all one package deal on the website, but when they sell it to you it's all itemized out anyway. They can change the order anyway you like.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    I don't think it's worth it to pay extra for the 5 HP. I got the V-5000, but it will not use nearly all the power the motor is capable of. Even with no filters & a very short 8" duct, when it should be working at maximum capacity, it won't pull more than about 13 A. Full load on the 5 HP motor is about 21 A. I went through tech support, but I basically got the run around. Everything about it is the same as the 3 HP model, except the motor.

    I'd have pursued it further, but with 3 HP I've got more than enough capacity. It certainly has soured me on Oneida though.
    Well that's interesting. I wonder if anyone has actually tested them side by side? Oneida posts their own curves showing the V-5000 is clearly more powerful. Funny thing is, my next question was going to be, if I did get the 5hp, is there a way to throttle it down some for my immediate use, but still have the ability for the full capacity should I need more?

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Halsted View Post
    Well that's interesting. I wonder if anyone has actually tested them side by side? Oneida posts their own curves showing the V-5000 is clearly more powerful. Funny thing is, my next question was going to be, if I did get the 5hp, is there a way to throttle it down some for my immediate use, but still have the ability for the full capacity should I need more?
    That has me baffled as well. I have a digital readout showing the current draw real time & I've checked it against a very expensive Fluke meter & it's within a fraction of an amp. The numbers don't lie.

    You can always just close off blast gates some. The more you throttle back the gates, the less power the motor will use.

  13. #28
    If you bought a ClearVue with a three phase motor you could run it with a VFD. The VFD can be programmed to soft start so it doesn’t draw high amps at start up and you can limit the maximum amperage draw while running. When you get a bigger shop you could run it wide open and even a little more within reason. Oneida may have a three phase option too but I’ve never looked.

    You can run any cyclone tilted if headroom is limited at the expense of wall space. A CV without a drum is about 6’ high when vertical. Tilt it to 45 degrees and it is about 4’ high. You could even poke the bottom out the wall and have the collection drum outside.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    central tx
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Halsted View Post
    For the V-3000 owners, were you compelled at all to jump up to the 5hp model? It would seem to me that the 3hp model is plenty powerful for a one man shop, and is also less power/heat, quieter, and can probably be run on a smaller breaker/wire. However, the 5hp model really isn't much more expensive, and it is hard to say no to more power.

    Another question I have is, does anyone know if the V-3000 can be bought without the stand? What if you want the wall-mount instead? What if you want neither? I would plan to build a mobile stand for the unit until it can be wall-mounted one day. I don't really care for the metal stand too much.
    I've decided on the V-3000. I ran 10 awg wire in the event I think I ever need to step up to the 5HP and the increase to 30 amp breaker.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Maynard, MA
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    127
    I currently have a Jet 1100 with 6” pvc mains. Longest run is 15’. It does pretty well, but now that I have added a 16” b/s, I want to go to 3hp.
    No one has mentioned making the transition from the Oneida 7” outlet to pvc 6”. Anyone have a good method?

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