Originally Posted by
Mark Ketelsen
I'm impressed with the finish and wonder if you would mind providing the finishing schedule details.
Thanks
Sure. I generally avoid colorants. I sometimes get to visit a piece that someone has had for many years. On some pieces I noticed that the walnut had gotten too light for my taste and I wanted to do better. I wanted the walnut to look natural but, not lighten up so much over time.
I now use Transtint liquid dyes to set the color. I mix the dyes in a mineral spirits and BLO base. Walnut varies so much, from grey/black through red/brown all the way to blond, that there is no hard and fast formula for the color. I adjust it based on the material I use for the piece. I make a test board and apply the oil/varnish blend I use for the bulk of the finish. I then compare the dye blend applied next to the non-dyed sample and I adjust it till I get a color very close to this.
Here is a shot with the dye/MS/BLO mixture applied (no varnish):
GnG Low CoD (259).jpg
Once I have that color made I then mix equal parts of mineral spirits, BLO and a modified alkyd varnish (I favor Cabot's gloss). I do this in a clean old jar that has fairly straight sides. I take a scrap of light wood and mark it out for the mixing ratio I am after. I use an indelible marker like a Marks-a-lot.
GnG Low CoD (246).jpg
Drop the stick into the glass jar and pour in the first ingredient until you reach the first line,
GnG Low CoD (247).jpg
add the second ingredient until you reach the second line, and then the third. I then add one additional part of the pre-mixed colorant and this results in my final finish/top coat. Now use the stick to stir things up before you start and at intervals as you go along.
The finish is padded on with a cotton rag like a t-shirt folded up to make a wrinkle-free faced pad. There are examples of how to fold a pad in many articles on shellac application of French Polish techniques. No real voo-doo to it, just fold or wrap it so it is comfy to hold and provides a smooth controllable face.
I apply a heavy coat to the entire carcass, top and drawers. Go grab a sandwich and a cup of coffee. Come back in a half hour or so and wipe all the excess off. I repeat this at least 3 times and then let it cure for 24 hours. I then lightly sand any nibs, do another 2-3 coats and let this cure for 24 hours. I then add another part of varnish to the mix that is left and do one more coat as a top coat. After another 24 hours the result looks like so:
GnG Low CoD (263).jpg
At this point it is quite glossy. This allows me to temper the shine to what I am after. I let it cure for several days. The curing is slowed by the blend but, the ease of application (and touching up of boo-boos) makes the delayed cure worth it to me.
A completely cured finish is critical to the next steps. A soft finish will scratch or collect spoil during the next steps; be patient ;-)
I wet sand the top coat with 1500 to 2000 grit wet/dry paper lubed with mineral spirits. Once I have the sheen I want, I rub the whole piece down with clean cotton rags misted with mineral spirits to collect and remove all the spoil. I know I have "the look" right if when people walk up to a piece they immediately reach out and lay a hand on it. Change rags often and only spritz them enough to pick up the dust; you're not trying to wet the piece down.
That's it. If the client already has a furniture care protocol they are happy with I will paste wax a piece or not depending on their preference. I hope this got you what you were interested in.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 10-24-2016 at 4:04 PM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Reply With Quote
