Are radial arm saws worth anything these days?

[Kim Gibbens]

A dewalt 1030 roundarm replaced my mbf, the 1030 is not going anywhere

[Terry Beadle]

I have a Craftsman 10 in radial saw, for over 30 years. I use it for rough dimensioning timber and a few other processes. It sits by my Grizzly 1023 and tells the Grizzly old fart stories....that's why the Grizzley doesn't growl at me ... ;-)

The $100 it would get me on Craigslist is not worth messing with. It's real handy and despite some peoples experiences, after 30+ years I can get accurate results and extremely small adjustments to cuts that need it ( which is not often ). I use my planes to adjust to fit.

With the Forest blade, the cut is almost with out need for additional surfacing of end grain.

Worth more than the $100 in my opinion.

I will sell it to who ever wants to give me $1000 as Moma didn't raise no fool....hoot!

Enjoy the shavings!

[Garth Almgren]

The perception is out there that RASs aren't worth anything, which just makes it easier to find a good deal for those of us that do appreciate them.

When you think about it, a RAS has a similar footprint as a 12" SCMS with a stand, but is way more versatile even if you only use it for crosscuts and dados. I've got a small shop (about 14' square for the main room), but it's got enough space for a 1980s 10" Craftsman RAS.

Only downsides I can see are that a RAS is not very portable, and you do have to flip your material over to get the same depth of cut as a 12" SCMS, but to me that's no big deal. You get the right blade on it - something with a negative hook angle - and that'll eliminate the lunging and tendency to self-feed.

If I had the chance to upgrade from a Craftsman to a vintage DeWalt in good shape for free, I'd take it.

[Earl McLain]

I had a craftsman that was okay at cross-cutting, but I had to keep an eye on it. Later picked up a Dewalt SCMS that works great, and traded the craftsman motor for the $100 bounty (doubling my money!!). Late last winter, picked up a 1958 Dewalt GWI (12") RAS. Had to replace the motor bearings and add a new table--but it is incredibly accurate at any angle. Points that have been made by others that I would agree with quite strongly:
a. Blade selection is very important--for performance as well as personal safety. I see a lot of CL pictures with scary blades.
b. Garth's comment about the footprint--my SCMS is mounted on a Bosch stand, and even folded up it's not that much smaller than the Dewalt with an oversized table. (though I built 2 decks last summer, and the SCMS/stand sure was easy to drag around the yard!)
c. Versatility--Wally Kunkel's book (Mr. Sawdust) really helps in demonstrating some of the uses and techniques. I'll be keeping my table saw, but Kunkel almost talked me out of it.

Brought my Dad's 1946 Red Star turret RAS (bought by Delta in about 1948) home about 6 weeks ago. It will be a winter project. Can house a 14" blade, but I think i'll have a 12" made for it (3/4" arbor, so not much available off the shelf) and use it for sentimental reasons. Definitely needs bearings, otherwise only a little cosmetics.

Like many other forms of tool, it's a personal preference/comfort level. I like the old RAS.
earl

[lowell holmes]

I have one (1960's vintage) that was my father's saw. You cannot put a table saw blade on it without the problem you talk about. The hook angle is wrong.
If you don't understand hook angle, you should learn about it. A proper blade will lessen the risk. Using any motorized saw is risky, even saber saws.

Put a proper blade on it and they are decent saws. You can cut yourself on any saw that you do know about. My saw cuts quickly and is handy for a lot of cuts. I think 6" and 8" "skillsaws" are more dangerous requiring more skill and concentration.

To you younger woodworkers, 50 years ago all 6" and 8" circular saws were called skillsaws by the carpenters. By the late 70's they were using the big heavy saws that had a longer body on them.
I had one framing carpenter that took the blade guard off of his saw and would lay the saw down with the blade up and coasting to a stop. It was a terrifying thing to watch.

[Bradley Gray]

I have a fine Delta 14" mid 20th century RAS. It will crosscut wide stock, cut miters on long pieces, make tenons on stock too long for the table saw, cut boards to length for glue-ups and many other tasks and leave an incredibly smooth surface.

[Myk Rian]

My MBF is the most accurate saw I have. I love it.

0423001517.jpg

[Adam Herman]

that's a beauty Myk. I would make room for one of those!

[Roy Turbett]

My MBF is the most accurate saw I have. I love it.

0423001517.jpg

As pretty as it is, it couldn't beat Barry's for the Vintage Machinery Calendar. Tough loss!

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/phot...es/17523-A.jpg

[Ken Combs]

The perception is out there that RASs aren't worth anything, which just makes it easier to find a good deal for those of us that do appreciate them.

When you think about it, a RAS has a similar footprint as a 12" SCMS with a stand, but is way more versatile even if you only use it for crosscuts and dados.

Only downsides I can see are that a RAS is not very portable, and you do have to flip your material over to get the same depth of cut as a 12" SCMS, but to me that's no big deal. You get the right blade on it - something with a negative hook angle - and that'll eliminate the lunging and tendency to self-feed.

Amen!!

I just last month picked up a Dewalt/Black and Deck Power shop, probably 80s vintage. It's on the factory steel cabinet with casters.(narrower than my SCMS w/stand and no storage underneath!) Not a speck of rust on it anywhere, controls all smooth and accurate. Installed a new correct blade and it is dead square and cuts great. All of $75!!

My SCMS is now on the shelf and will only be used when needed outside the shop. In my usage, that portability is the only advantage.

The radial arm is quieter, much more versatile and moves easier on its' casters when needed. BTW, I'm 73 and have been using a radial since age 17. And, can still count to ten using my fingers.