Large farm tables

[Dan Russ]

That's what I would want, I nice long bed jointer. That DJ-20 would be awesome but probably tough to find. I've been looking at the G0656W (Grizzly) but not sure of the quality. I just picked up a Delta 22-101 planer and love it! A DJ-20 would look nice beside it 👌🏼

[Marshall Mosby]

Bed Jointer should do the trick.

[Frederick Skelly]

This is basically what I do now. Roller stands and my wife helping assist in the lugging of all the boards. I don't own a hand plane but are interested in buying one if it will help. What number plane would you suggest? #7

#7 at least bit probably a #8 for really long boards.

[liam c murphy]

Planes, Jointers, and track saws all have their place. I usually get by with the track saw and jointer. I also builds lots of tables. After purchasing my TS75, I'd not be without it.

[Patrick Kane]

Yeah, you need a bigger jointer. Unfortunately, an 8" is probably out matched for this line of work. I would consider something with 86-96"+ beds, or look into Aigner extension tables for adding on to the length of the bed. An 8" is typically around 60-72" table length, and the aigners will double it. What is your lumber inventory? Much easier/more attractive to glue up 12" wide boards for your table tops instead of 6".

I was just jointing 10' 8/4 boards on my 12" jointer this weekend and that is a workout. Phew, sweating by the end of it in an air conditioned space.

[Tom Hyde]

A sharp jointer hand plane is a wonderful thing. Joint the mating edges together at the same time and the joint should be perfect. You can also spring the joint with a few light passes toward the center of the joint but not the entire length. I recently did this on a 10' joint ripped on the bandsaw, cleaned up on a 8" jointer and tuned up with a hand plane. Surprisingly good fit, flawless actually. But yeah, should probably step up to an 8" jointer as well.

I also get pretty decent results with my contractors saw, a very good blade, and a shop-made plywood guide without going the track saw route, good enough for the final hand plane tune up of the joint. Small inconsistencies in the parallel are taken care of in terms of fit by hand planing the mating edges together at the same time.

Since I don't work with sheet goods much, I'm one "those" guys who doesn't have a table saw in the shop. If I did, it would be a European slider.

[lowell holmes]

I think you should take the opportunity to buy both.

After all, we need all of the toys, I mean tools we can get.

[Prashun Patel]

If you do 'lots' of these, then I'd just build a tablesaw jointing jig, and invest in a glue-line rip blade. After jointing one edge, you should use a featherboard to hold the piece against the fence.

You can get a decent joint this way.

[Jim Becker]

If you do 'lots' of these, then I'd just build a tablesaw jointing jig, and invest in a glue-line rip blade. After jointing one edge, you should use a featherboard to hold the piece against the fence.

You can get a decent joint this way.

Hah...you just need to buy a Slider, Prashun.

[Don Dorn]

I agree with those that push the #7 or #8 jointer plane. Does a wonderful job and isn't limited by any width or length. I also use it to flatten one side, then the planer. Once done, plane the planer side and both are parallel and baby smooth. No sanding (unless fine final) and use your finish.