Need ideas for this space

[Aaron Conway]

Hi all,

I have this space next to a fireplace that I'd like to make a built in for but not sure how to deal with the baseboard heat. The space is only 34" wide (less if you include the baseboard heat) so also concerned about anything looking too tall and narrow or disproportionate. Appreciate any suggestions or ideas.

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[Robin Frierson]

Show us whats on the other side of the fireplace. Is it just a bare wall?

[Aaron Conway]

The same amount of space but open to other rooms so don't think I can add anything.
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[Al Launier]

I would suggest a 90° (2-wall) built-in book case on the left & nothing on the right as that probably would interfere with the passageway. The bookcase could start up a couple feet above the baseboard heater & run up to the ceiling. It could be used for nick-nacks as well.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Aaron, you could consider raising the cabinet off the floor enough to allow the heat to transverse underneath then, if you're concerned about excess heat getting trapped in the space beneath, put an axial fan (like is in your computer) to draw the heat out into the room activated by your thermostat (that would take some in house wiring) or a local thermostat set in the space (once it gets warm there the fan turns on). If you don't like the fan idea, you could direct the flow with some kind of curved plate which should flush the heat out pretty good.

[Jamie Buxton]

Can't you trim the baseboard heater back? Those things are designed to go on any length of wall, as if you can configure the length of the heater. After you cut it back, you can install any sort of built-in cabinet you want.

[John Ziebron]

I built a red oak corner gun cabinet for one of my sons in law a few years back and had the same issue with baseboard heaters. The cabinet when filled would be pretty heavy and so it needed to be supported from the floor. It was also fastened to nearby studs but I wouldn't have trusted those alone. So I simply made the bottom footprint smaller and tall enough to get above the baseboard. If you build anything, like a bookcase, that will hold a lot of weight I would suggest you'd have to do the same. Here is a picture of the cabinet installed.

[Mel Fulks]

I would make units for both sides of equal width ,stopping the width several inches short of the wall heater. They would have to be shallow,back at least an inch from the stone face. Height would be an inch or two below the bottom of the mantel shelf. Would use scribe strips to get fit around the stones. Would use just a couple of screws to make sure they can't fall over. If you or next owner tire of them just move them somewhere else.

[Wayne Lomman]

Aaron, build the unit with an air inlet grille in the kicker and an internal duct to direct the warm air out of the top. If it is full height to the ceiling, put another vent at the top. It is what you do for a wall or under bench oven. Convection takes care of the heat. Just make sure you have a clear path for the air. A false back is the way to go. Cheers

[Aaron Conway]

John, I like the gun cabinet and doing a base like that is a good option.

Wayne, I like your idea...almost like making a mini chimney in the back of the unit.

Thanks all for the feedback...I have some drawing to do.

[Bob Grier]

Redo heat as Jamie suggests. If the heat tubing comes up through concrete floor then it will be more difficult than if all you have to do is cut wood and/or sheetrock. Unless you are dealing with concrete, it should be relatively easy to shorten the heater. If freezing of the heat pipe is an issue in New Hampshire, then be careful if heat tubing is in outside wall.