Oneway Talon Chuck and Morse taper2

[Stephen Yeates]

I can't seem to remove a Craftsman threaded spacer in a used Talon chuck I bought. I tried everything including a jig I made up with wooden wedges to try to pry it off with a bar running through the threaded holes in the adapter's side. I put the retaining screws back into the adapter and now I'm now thinking to buy a #2 Morse taper with a threaded end for the insert. Then I can just pop the taper into my spindle. Will this be stable and work as well as a Oneway insert sized to my Delta 1460 lathe? Also, can anyone verify that Craftsman had 3/4" headstock thread diameter? Thanks everyone.


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[Shawn Pachlhofer]

have you tried soaking the joint with a penetrating oil, then using a "pickle fork" to separate them?

the more pieces you have in there "adapting" from one to another, the more places you introduce runout, and highly likely it will not run true.

[Geoff Crimmins]

If you're talking about removing the taper-lock spindle adapter from the chuck, it can be removed by removing the retaining screws and screwing them into the other two (three?) holes in the adapter. As you tighten the screws into these holes they push the adapter out of the chuck.

I wouldn't recommend putting a chuck on a morse taper adapter. The chuck will not stay on the lathe unless you use a drawbar to hold the morse taper on the lathe. Even then, and #2 morse taper is a lot smaller diameter than most lathe spindles so there would be an increased likelihood of having problems with vibration.

--Geoff

[Wally Wenzel]

Yes the craftsman is 3/4 BY 16 TPI. As Geoff said use the mounting screws and use them to jack the adapter out.
Wally

[Stephen Yeates]

Thanks for all the replies. I tried the jack screws and had no luck. I might order metric cap screws in the same size so I can get more torque with an allen wrench and not strip the heads.

[Dale Miner]

Thanks for all the replies. I tried the jack screws and had no luck. I might order metric cap screws in the same size so I can get more torque with an allen wrench and not strip the heads.

With the jack screws tightened against the Chuck body trying to push the adapter out, screw a 3/4 bolt into the adapter where the spindle would ordinarily be.

reach through the Chuck body with a 1/2 inch punch (or sacrificial bolt) and smack the end of the 3/4 inch bolt, being careful to not damage the threads on the bolt or adapter. It would help to place the Chuck body on a couple of blocks of wood to aid in getting a solid blow.

The combination of the jack bolt pressure and the shock of the hammer blow should free the adapter.

If the previous owner used lock tite on the adapter, it is doubtful that anything short of heating to 350-375 during the removal will work.

[Don Orr]

The screws holding the insert into the chuck body should be cap screws with an allen socket. If you put them into the threaded holes in the insert and tighten them against the body, tap the insert with a small hammer and tighten again, repeat til it comes out. Might take a few rounds of this. Worked for me.

And as others have said-do not use a #2 taper adapter unless you have a draw bar to keep it in place. These chucks are not designed to be used that way-they should be threaded onto the spindle.

[Bill Boehme]

Thanks for all the replies. I tried the jack screws and had no luck. I might order metric cap screws in the same size so I can get more torque with an allen wrench and not strip the heads.

Don't use hardware store screws even if they are Grade 8 hardened. I spoke to Oneway about this when changing the spindle thread adapter insert from 1 X 8 to 1.25 X8 and had a screw snap flush with the surface. They said to use only Unbrako socket head cap screws and they even sent some new screws to me without charge. They said other brands of Grade 8 aren't strong enough.

Unless somebody switched screws, the ones installed ought to be socket head cap screws. Sometimes, jacking the insert out can be extremely difficult. The procedure is to tighten the screws as much as you can and then using a wooden drift give it a smart rap with a dead blow hammer to the side of the collar of the insert. Retighten the screws again and apply another rap or two. Also try tapping at several locations around the collar. This procedure will take quite a few iterations until you see visible movement. After that, it should back out easily. Another very important caution is DO NOT REUSE THE SCREWS. The ends will be slightly mushroomed and they won't be as strong as a new screw because of the extreme tension and compression loads. Always use new screws when installing a new insert or you will run the risk of snapping due to fatigue when pressing the new insert into the body. Extracting a broken screw isn't an enjoyable experience.

[Stephen Yeates]

Success! I got the insert out finally. Thanks for all your help. In the end I used the jack screw method with hex head m4 0.7 machine bolts and my long handled ratchet wrench. So relieved I continued armed with all your suggestions. Someone had switched the screws for Phillips heads. The heads got damaged so quickly.